Replace a teak piece on the sliding cabin hatch
- Thread starter Light air
- Start date
Are you talking about the grab rail or the piece the hatch slides on? If it is the slides, I'd go with starboard instead of teak. Either way, try calling the guys here at the SBO store. They have run down parts for me on several occasions.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,290
Here in the SBO shop...
shop.sailboatowners.com
Or search the internet of everything for "Teak Hand Rails".
Buying from SBO means you are supporting this website and all the valuable information shared.
Whitecap Industries Whitecap Teak Handrails
Whitecap Industries Whitecap Teak Handrails
shop.sailboatowners.com
Buying from SBO means you are supporting this website and all the valuable information shared.
Hi again @Light air,
Always best to attach a photo to better describe the part you're discussing. I'm not familiar with a teak sliding hatch but have both the hatch cover and hatch boards done in 1/2" acrylic.
Second photo is poor and only shows the edge of the acrylic hatch cover.
If your construct is the same, no reason you couldn't replace the teak with acrylic.
If you've got a hobby woodworking shop, acrylic is great to work with. If not, an acrylic supplier often has a shop to form acrylic for a price.
Always best to attach a photo to better describe the part you're discussing. I'm not familiar with a teak sliding hatch but have both the hatch cover and hatch boards done in 1/2" acrylic.
Second photo is poor and only shows the edge of the acrylic hatch cover.
If your construct is the same, no reason you couldn't replace the teak with acrylic.
If you've got a hobby woodworking shop, acrylic is great to work with. If not, an acrylic supplier often has a shop to form acrylic for a price.
I've seen grab rails here on this site before. @Dave Groshong can probably point you to the right page.
It is also easy to make them and if I were replacing mine, I'd avoid wood and go with a faux wood product like trex. You would never have to sand or varnish again. If you take a hole cutter and cut a bunch of holes in a board and then rip the board on a table saw through the holes (see red line in top diagram), you will have the start of two grab rails ...... then cut out the notch in between two holes (see red line in middle diagrams) you will have a nice grab rail. You can make it any length you need. I've done this twice before and I did the ripping and notch-out all by eye with a skill saw. I just "plunged" the skill saw into the board when I cut out the notches. A table saw and a jig saw would have probably been better but the point is it was easy and only took about an hour to make two grab rails that I was very proud of. After you have knocked out the cuts, take a grinder to shape them and then sand them smooth. If you have a drill press then making the holes for the through bolts is very easy but I did mine with a hand drill. My drill has a level on it so I just kept my eye on the level and took it slow to make sure my hole was straight. I did my first one using a piece of pine deck-planking. The second was a piece of trex deck-planking. I liked the trex one better.
Even if cracked or broken, teak is normally worth fixing and refurbishing compared to replacement costs