Removing very old thru hull xducers
- Thread starter wdonovan
- Start date
I am assuming these are bronze? You could try try tapping a 5-in-1 paint scraper between the flange and the hull outside the boat, working your way around until it's as far in as you can get it. You don't want to whack it to hard on the inside or you could damage the hull. After the seal is broken on the outside, you should be able to turn it with a pipe wrench...
Marine Formula by Debond Corp.
"This stuff really works" is not a marketing catch phrase that they came up with to sell the stuff. It is what every user (myself included) says after they give it a try. Watch the videos and get some plastic single-edge razor blades.
"This stuff really works" is not a marketing catch phrase that they came up with to sell the stuff. It is what every user (myself included) says after they give it a try. Watch the videos and get some plastic single-edge razor blades.
They are very likely sealed with 5200. Original thinking was "no one's ever going to change these" so use 5200. And now you want to change them.
If the above suggestions don't work, try boring them out with a slightly smaller circle cutter and work away at the last of the material with a Dremel and a fluted bit. Slow but workable.
If the above suggestions don't work, try boring them out with a slightly smaller circle cutter and work away at the last of the material with a Dremel and a fluted bit. Slow but workable.
If the new transducer requires a larger hole, use a hole saw to cut the new hole and remove old transducer.
That's what I did when I replaced the transducer a couple of years ago. I cut a piece of 2x4 to insert into the old through hull, epoxied it in place and then used a hole saw to cut a new hole. The old through hull was a 1.5" hole, the new one was 2".Live in hope ........................... die in despair.
Like Brokenarm ,I have removed mine and others bronze and plastic , warm them with a heat gun ,not the glass 5200 releases with heat and then put a piece of wood on them and stand on them ,they will come out
With that kind of luck, you should buy lottery tickets (and a new boat of course)
.And how do you know I haven't?With that kind of luck, you should buy lottery tickets (and a new boat of course)
There is an easier way no epoxy you take a 1.5 inch hole saw and thread it on inside a 2inch hole saw and the 1.5 now becomes the pilot
Hole Saw Trick | getcha out of a jam! - YouTube
New xducer same dia as old one. I am skeptical heat will travel down plastic far enough to help. The bond is the length of hull thickness and this is a Hunter so it may be pretty thick. It does not seem to be 5200 as it is pliable and allowed me to pry the flange away from the hull underside. It left some soft putty on the knife. I am going to try that Debond stuff. If it doesn't fly I will holesaw then chisel, holesaw then chisel, repeat, repeat... Finish with hacksaw blade and anything else needed. This will end in celebration bc I am bulldog. Thanks for the input, all.
OK I am the proud (and resultingly poor) owner of my own can of Debond Marine Formula. Curiosity got me and I sprayed a little on a cloth to smell and feel the consistency. Was surprised that there were very little volatile solvents in the mix and pleasantly surprised that the liquid had an oily texture, much like Goo-Gone. Both these raised my hopes of being able to keep this on the bonded joint for an extended period to let it work its way in. Plan is to take some 1/8" messenger cord and wrap a wick around the transducer barrel where it enters the hull, spray the wick and wrap it with aluminum foil. Don't know what else I can do to keep it there other than to make a dam from RTV, let it dry and use it to hold a pool of Debond. Of course I would first test the resistance of the RTV to the remover. Wish me luck. Will report back.
You did not mention scoring the old adhesive between the substrate and adhesive. You can use a steel razorblade or the recommended plastic one. Did you watch the videos of how to to apply? I found them helpful.
I do not know what magic they did but the stuff does not seem to soften the 5200 at all so spraying it on the top does not do much, It works on the bond between the 5200 and whatever it is stuck to and just makes it let go.
Good luck.
Debond will not dissolve the sealant. Debond works by breaking the bond between the sealant and what ever it is stuck to.
I seem to recall some instructions on their website suggesting Debond be applied to the edge of the sealant and a wedge then driven in between fitting and the hull. Let the debone work, add some more push the wedge in further. Keep repeating until the fitting is freed.
I seem to recall some instructions on their website suggesting Debond be applied to the edge of the sealant and a wedge then driven in between fitting and the hull. Let the debone work, add some more push the wedge in further. Keep repeating until the fitting is freed.
I use an oscillating saw to get most of the old transducer off from the inside the hull by flush cutting CARFULLY with a large flat blade. I then cut through the plastic 90% of the threads @ 4 places with a hacksaw blade wrapped with tape. Out it came no damage to the interior or exterior. I did 2 that way in under an hour.