Cherubini was a genius. At least he had good sources.

Oct 19, 2013
58
Hunter 37C 3 Centerport
OK, so I couldn't resist the 2 for 1 sale on Lewmar winches.
I ordered them last week and got them today.
Before the sale, I contacted Lewmar Support and asked them straight up, what was the equivalent to the Maxwell 26?
They told me the EVO ST 45.
I'm sure the EVO ST 45 is a very good winch. It's warranted for 7 years and you can add an electric motor to it.
That's good, though, I've come to he conclusion that the 35 year old Maxwell 26 is superior in every way..
The largest bronze gear on the Maxwell is 1", on the Lewmar it's 3/4"ish.,...etc.
Now I'm wondering about what kind of alloys were blended for the cogs in 1985 compared to 2020.
I'm glad I bought the Lewmars, because I never would have realized how great the Maxwell's really are.
I'm putting the Maxwells back on.
I guess that's why we love John Cherubini...he knew what he was doing.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,723
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
What is the ”depreciation rate” on a winch? Same as driving a new car off the lot?

So I would offer 50% of your BOGO price?

Or are you returning the new Lewmar’s to West Marine?

Greg
 
Oct 19, 2013
58
Hunter 37C 3 Centerport
Hi Tally Ho,
Appreciate your offer, though yes, I returned the Lewmar's to West Marine.
I reinstalling the Maxwells.

If you're in need of winches, Ebay has a bunch available.
 
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Jan 7, 2011
4,723
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Hi Tally Ho,
Appreciate your offer, though yes, I returned the Lewmar's to West Marine.
I reinstalling the Maxwells.

If you're in need of winches, Ebay has a bunch available.
Just giving you a little grief. Interesting to see the difference in the quality and designs.

Greg
 
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Dec 28, 2015
1,837
Laser, Hunter H30 Cherubini Tacoma
OK, so I couldn't resist the 2 for 1 sale on Lewmar winches.
I ordered them last week and got them today.
Before the sale, I contacted Lewmar Support and asked them straight up, what was the equivalent to the Maxwell 26?
They told me the EVO ST 45.
I'm sure the EVO ST 45 is a very good winch. It's warranted for 7 years and you can add an electric motor to it.
That's good, though, I've come to he conclusion that the 35 year old Maxwell 26 is superior in every way..
The largest bronze gear on the Maxwell is 1", on the Lewmar it's 3/4"ish.,...etc.
Now I'm wondering about what kind of alloys were blended for the cogs in 1985 compared to 2020.
I'm glad I bought the Lewmars, because I never would have realized how great the Maxwell's really are.
I'm putting the Maxwells back on.
I guess that's why we love John Cherubini...he knew what he was doing.
If the leverage specs are the same mechanical advantage is mechanical advantage. With gear reduction, multiple step down gears are better than a single one. It spreads the forces across multiple components, dividing the stressors.
 
Last edited:
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dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
3,372
Belliure 41 Sailing back to the Chesapeake
Now I'm wondering about what kind of alloys were blended for the cogs in 1985 compared to 2020.
It does depend upon exactly what alloy was selected by each manufacturer in the two cases. But it's not likely much, if any, of a difference.

dj
 
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Oct 19, 2013
58
Hunter 37C 3 Centerport
Thanks for all your comments.
Whenever I think about those winches, I'm so glad I just rebuilt and replaced the Maxwells.
Done and Done!
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,107
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Whilst I admire the sentiment, I'm not sure where this post was going. Perhaps it is not as widely-known as I thought, that famous story about how Lewmar winches became standard on 1977-1978 Hunter models.

I'll embellish if anyone's having trouble finding the original post in the archives here.

:)
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,107
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
FYI - had I the money, I would - without a second's hesitation - replace my ORIGINAL 1970s-vintage Lewmar 7Cs with 14CSTs. You may thank the $450/ea price tag for a pair of those for keeping me to the old stuff.

And, for the curious, it has been ME who's been gleaning from the used- and antique-hardware market all the 1970s-1980s small chrome-bronze winches, 1970s Schaefer halyard stoppers, anodized Clamcleats, round 4"-diameter wind instruments, a Morse 103C engine control, Forespar Mini-Galley accessories - all for Diana, a boat which is a veritable timepiece of 1970s tech, design, and style.
 
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Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
OK, so I couldn't resist the 2 for 1 sale on Lewmar winches.
I ordered them last week and got them today.
Before the sale, I contacted Lewmar Support and asked them straight up, what was the equivalent to the Maxwell 26?
They told me the EVO ST 45.
I'm sure the EVO ST 45 is a very good winch. It's warranted for 7 years and you can add an electric motor to it.
That's good, though, I've come to he conclusion that the 35 year old Maxwell 26 is superior in every way..
The largest bronze gear on the Maxwell is 1", on the Lewmar it's 3/4"ish.,...etc.
Now I'm wondering about what kind of alloys were blended for the cogs in 1985 compared to 2020.
I'm glad I bought the Lewmars, because I never would have realized how great the Maxwell's really are.
I'm putting the Maxwells back on.
I guess that's why we love John Cherubini...he knew what he was doing.
Laugh Out freaking Loud.
 
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dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
3,372
Belliure 41 Sailing back to the Chesapeake
Whilst I admire the sentiment, I'm not sure where this post was going. Perhaps it is not as widely-known as I thought, that famous story about how Lewmar winches became standard on 1977-1978 Hunter models.

I'll embellish if anyone's having trouble finding the original post in the archives here.

:)
@DianaOfBurlington So I'll bite, I couldn't find the famous story...

dj
 
Apr 27, 2015
24
Hunter 37 Cutter Perth Amboy
Mr Bolander I would like your help.
I have owned a 37c since 2014. I took the cutter rig down to get the mast recoated however never reinstalled the stay rigging.
I am looking for a picture of the staysail back stay rig. I believe it attaches to the toe rail. I would appreciate if you or someone could send me a photo of that assembly.

Jim Dry Windseeker 1984 37C in NJ
 
Feb 14, 2004
70
Beneteau 423 Milwaukee, WI
Mr Bolander I would like your help.
I have owned a 37c since 2014. I took the cutter rig down to get the mast recoated however never reinstalled the stay rigging.
I am looking for a picture of the staysail back stay rig. I believe it attaches to the toe rail. I would appreciate if you or someone could send me a photo of that assembly.

Jim Dry Windseeker 1984 37C in NJ
This link should answer your question concerning the staysail backstay locations
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,107
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Hardware, especially rigging, should NEVER be attached directly to the holes in the anodized-aluminum toenail. It’s not made for it - all it does is chip up the toerail, break away the anodized coating, and lead to corrosion, unsightliness and failure.

I attach my running backstays to eye-bolts screwed through the flat portion of the toerail, typically replacing a mounting bolt with them. I have two locations - for reaching/running and for tacking. When ‘relaxed’ they are clipped to the bail of the stanchion base farthest forward by the shrouds.

I attach the headsail-sheet lead blocks to the toerail holes using snug-fitting aluminum bushings and stainless-steel bow shackles. The shackles themselves are fastened tightly by use of fiber and SS washers so that they don’t wiggle (and chip the anodizing); the snatch blocks’ snap shackles provide the flexibility for the sheet leads.

As for locating your running backs, approximate a short ‘mini’ rig made up of the inner forestay and the aft runners. The inner forestay should be parallel to the outer forestay; so lead the runners back a little less far aft than if they're parallel to the standing backstay. That’s your reaching/running position. For tacking harder on the wind they should have another location farther forward, to pull the middle of the mast more to windward. When not flying the inner job at all, they can be moved forward out of the way.

Don’t EVER jibe without taking up on the future windward runner first!

Thinking of the inner forestay and running backs like a miniature secondary rig is the general idea. This is not an archaic anachronism - it’s a vital part of the whole rig design. You have sail-plan flexibility no-one with a mere sloop has; and, better, you can both set more sail than a sloop can and reduce sail to double-reefed main and inner jib alone. This inner rig probably works best with a roller-furler for a 115 inner headsail and no boom - as I’ve rigged the most recent Cherubini 44s.
 
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May 2, 2022
2
Hunter 37c Madisonville
Hardware, especially rigging, should NEVER be attached directly to the holes in the anodized-aluminum toenail. It’s not made for it - all it does is chip up the toerail, break away the anodized coating, and lead to corrosion, unsightliness and failure.

I attach my running backstays to eye-bolts screwed through the flat portion of the toerail, typically replacing a mounting bolt with them. I have two locations - for reaching/running and for tacking. When ‘relaxed’ they are clipped to the bail of the stanchion base farthest forward by the shrouds.

I attach the headsail-sheet lead blocks to the toerail holes using snug-fitting aluminum bushings and stainless-steel bow shackles. The shackles themselves are fastened tightly by use of fiber and SS washers so that they don’t wiggle (and chip the anodizing); the snatch blocks’ snap shackles provide the flexibility for the sheet leads.

As for locating your running backs, approximate a short ‘mini’ rig made up of the inner forestay and the aft runners. The inner forestay should be parallel to the outer forestay; so lead the runners back a little less far aft than if they're parallel to the standing backstay. That’s your reaching/running position. For tacking harder on the wind they should have another location farther forward, to pull the middle of the mast more to windward. When not flying the inner job at all, they can be moved forward out of the way.

Don’t EVER jibe without taking up on the future windward runner first!

Thinking of the inner forestay and running backs like a miniature secondary rig is the general idea. This is not an archaic anachronism - it’s a vital part of the whole rig design. You have sail-plan flexibility no-one with a mere sloop has; and, better, you can both set more sail than a sloop can and reduce sail to double-reefed main and inner jib alone. This inner rig probably works best with a roller-furler for a 115 inner headsail and no boom - as I’ve rigged the most recent Cherubini 44s.
What are your thoughts on Genoa size in 10 to 15 knot winds? How hard to tack and get the headsail through the rigging with a 150 Genoa? Any tips and tricks?
 
Jan 2, 2008
547
Hunter 33 (Cherubini design Forked River, Barnegat Bay, NJ
A little late here but I will add this. The Designer generally calls out the size or configuration of hardware he wants. The brand is pretty much down to which manufacturer provides the best pricinf for a given purchase lot .

I once raced on an acquaintances boat with Maxwells. I could not believe it took a FULL six turns around the winches before they stopped slipping. Anderson ran some kind of super sale over the winter a number of years ago. I got a great deal so I replaced thenon self tailing Barients tgat came on my 33 with Anderson self tailers. Amazing! Absolutely no slip with no more than two turns either straight or thru the self tailer.