What is best way to rig this rigid boom vang?

Jun 11, 2020
32
Hunter 29.5 Northport
So we bought a '94 Hunter 29.5 and pretty much all the running rigging needed replacements. However, I'm not sure if the rigid boom vang was rigged correctly. This particular one has 2 pulleys at each end of the rigid pole.

The way they had it was with a stopper knot at the top of the pole(closest to the boom) then running down the bottom of the pole and back up for several times so that there are 5 runs up and down. Then it goes back to the cockpit.

However, there is no other hardware or blocks. What made me think that they might have had it rigged wrong is that the manual calls for 25' on the boom vang line, but this length needs to be about 34' to make it. On our other boat we didn't have a rigid pole, but had the standard 4:1 combination of fiddle blocks.

I have googled it and can;t find anything specific for rigging this type of boom vang with the two pulleys on each end.

Any thoughts?

-Kyle
 

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Likes: hubertolini
May 17, 2004
5,733
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
I think that looks OK. I don’t have any pictures of my similar vang, but I think the order on mine is upper throat - bottom pulley - upper pulley - bottom pulley - upper pulley - mast base block - deck organizer block - jammer
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,064
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I think it might be upside down. The fatter tube belongs on the bottom. Also the vang interferes with the opening port. It looks like there are additional mounting holes, moving the pole up to the top hole may allow the hatch to be opened more.
 
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Likes: Hello Below

DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
Agree with Davidasailor... that is the way mine is rigged.
I disagree that the fat tube should be down, that would allow water to get into the tube and possibly accumulate if the bushing was out of position like it is in the illustration.
 
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Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,223
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
I can see in the picture the control line leaves the top sheave and runs outside the unit, down to a small block at its base mounted on deck (it appears). It then goes out to the organizer and turns back to the cockpit where I'm sure you'll find it secured by a cleat. Why don't you just start pulling and releasing all those lines so you'll know what they're for.... then perhaps a label maker is in you and your crew's future.
 

DArcy

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Feb 11, 2017
1,771
Islander Freeport 36 Ottawa
What made me think that they might have had it rigged wrong is that the manual calls for 25' on the boom vang line, but this length needs to be about 34' to make it.
There is a jam cleat on the vang. 25' could be for just the vang portion if stopping the line in that jam cleat. The extra line is likely to make it back to the cockpit.
 
Apr 8, 2010
2,140
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Is the return force a gas strut? It looks similar to the OEM one on our '88 boat. I replaced it with a new spring return version in the 90's when it was losing pressure. The purchase system looks about the same as most of these.
It's a great piece of kit, in general -- no more topping lift to snag on batten pockets.

Regarding the vent hatch, when adding a rigid vang, most of the time it's best to have the opening face aft; you may have to remount it, if it faces forward. Happens on lots of boats.
 

DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
Is the return force a gas strut? It looks similar to the OEM one on our '88 boat. I replaced it with a new spring return version in the 90's when it was losing pressure. The purchase system looks about the same as most of these.

The vang shown in his photo has an internal spring, really a fairly simple mechanism.