Rudder Question: Crack in Fiberglass

[snoopy_]

Hello,

While working on removing my bearing I noticed a crack in the rudder that looks like it needs repair. Any advice or suggestions?

Thanks,

 

[dmax]

That's a pretty serious crack and you shouldn' sail the boat until you know its extent. Unless the rudder took an impact, it looks like water has entered the rudder either through the shaft-to-fiberglass joint or through the top of the rudder shaft. The water may have then froze and expanded, causing the crack. First thing to determine is if there's any water inside the rudder. Drill some 1/4" holes in strategic places and see if any water comes out. I would drill a hole near the bottom of the crack and also at the very bottom of the rudder and probably a few more in various places. Use a brass or rubber hammer and tap over the whole rudder to see if you get a hollow sound which means the fiberglass has separated from the foam. Also, see if the crack opens up at all when you yank on the rudder. These rudders don't last forever and prior to around 1990 they used mild steel for the internal flag that keeps the rudder shaft from spinning inside the rudder case - if water gets in the rudder, that flag rusts away, not good. I have replaced the rudders on my last two boats (previous was an '89 Catalina 30) as water had entered and I didn't have confidence in them. If you go that root, Foss Foam in Florida, who made the originals, can make up a new one for you, they are a class outfit. Approximately two boat bucks.

 

[snoopy_]

Thank you.

I bought the boat before last summer and didn't notice any issues... but I just had it sodablasted and now I see the crack; actually I just noticed it while working to remove the bearing, so I was very close to the area, but I didn't notice it when inspecting the hull post sodablasting. The boat has been on the hard all winter.

I spoke to a guy at newrudders.com in Florida, he quoted the same price. He suggested drilling an inspection hole on the trailing side of the post near the notch to see if any corrosion had taken place on the post, then some additional holes for drainage, then epoxy over them to seal.

 

[dmax]

newrudders.com is Foss Foam if you didn't realize.

 

[Ward H]

That crack does look scary. Glad you found it now and not on launch day or worse, once in the water.

 

[snoopy_]

newrudders.com is Foss Foam if you didn't realize.

I kind of suspected, but thought it was a coincidence. Thank you for the clarification, the gentlemen that talk me through it was very nice and non alarmist.

 

[Tally Ho]

You can probably clean it up, add some glass to that area and salvage it for a while.
But I would plan a new rudder in your budget pretty soon.

Greg

 

[snoopy_]

I sanded and grinded through cracks today on rudder. I am hoping to epoxy and cloth over damage, then use some fairing compound, then epoxy barrier and bottom paint. Thoughts?

 

[johndlundiii]

We literally just went through your exact problem after pulling out boat out last year end of season. Called Catalina, life the rudder is about 20-30 years before molding starts to split from post allowing very small amount of water in. Eventually you'll start with the small micro cracks, but then you'll get pops in the glass from swelling and contracting. I agree with the other post from Foss, we had 2 options 1. Open the entire rudder up, drill it, dry it, then fill it and layer it with the appropriate glass, then reface it, then seal the top. (This cost us 1500, this is crazy high). 2. We got a rudder estimate fully shipped from Cali to Chicago for 2200-3000 depending on the rudder design you choose (this is high as well but one and done with exception of drilling steering column holes). I would not repair this.

 

[snoopy_]

I am looking to re-glass the post for this season. I will order the new rudder from Foss, but I want to move the boat to a new location and use it. I assume it will take time to have it built, especially during covid.

 

[RitSim]

I had a C30 and did work on the rudder. I could see water in the rudder by looking down the rudder tube from the cockpit. I used 6" and 3" fiberglass tape on the front, back, and bottom of the rudder. I also had a hollow sounding area that I thought was freeze damage but turned out to be just a manufacturing issue. Also wrapped the area that you highlighted. I was tape with the epoxy resin to avoid dealing with cloth unraveling edges. I put both layers on (after prepping) and wet them with resin then wrapped the rudder with Saran Wrap. The Saran doesn't stick to the epoxy as long as you smooth it and have no wrinkles/foldovers. I think it took about a week of nights. BTW- I found that the upper hull rudder bearing surface was not perpendicular to the shaft. Also take a look at the rudder stop peg that is on the underside of the quadrant.
Depending on the time that he water has been in the rudder, you may also have rust/degraded rudder structure.
I also found some Youtube videos on refoaming the rudder at home- I just didn't need to go that far.
Good luck

 

[snoopy_]

Follow up:

I finally had some time off from work this week and was able to apply my idea of a bandaid. I used three layers of 10 oz fiberglass weave over the grounded out section, and one layer over the leading edge to cover up some additional pockmarks. I scrubbed the amine blush off, then covered and sanded with Total Boat Total Fair. Then applied two coats of epoxy barrier and two coats of bottom paint. I will look to order a new rudder in the fall.

There are multiple sources for rudders, and I read about a newer HPDE version from Catalina Direct or Ruddercraft.com, does anyone have experience with this newer version?

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

 

[Ward H]

Looks great! Nice job.

 

[Tally Ho]

Looks as good as new...nice job.