The shore power outlet in our Jeanneau 39i sailboat is in the transom. We are in a bow in slip and the shore power cord must be run across the from of the bow, down the finger pier, and across the transom of the boat. We would like to add a second shore power outlet mounted in the anchor locker without eliminating the transom mounted outlet. When one outlet is in use, the alternative outlet needs to be deactivated to avoid an electrical accident. Has anyone added a second 30 amp shore power outlet?
Adding shore power outlet
- Thread starter RickS
- Start date
Wondering why Stu. Ours is set up as a single feed circuit such that energizing one also energizes the other (fwd and stern). As we have only the typical dual shore power cables, it's impossible to plug into both ends of the boat simultaneously. What am I missing?
I assume the panel is in nav station in middle of boat put a plug up high on anchor locker with a circuit breaker within 3' and then use approved marine wire to a 3 position switch in nav station then to panel 2pole 3 position switch available from Hubble for marine use just insure its installed in approved box and strap cable every 3'
I think (correct me if I misinterpret you, Stu), that you never expect the open, unplugged receptacle (receiver) to become live under any circumstances. If the fore and aft receptacles are wired in parallel, that is exactly what would happen to the one not plugged in (open).
A little electrical jiggery-pokery would circumvent that problem. A heavy, marine grade, three way switch in which the common contact is attached to your AC distribution buss and the other two contacts are connected to the fore and aft receptacles respectively comes to mind.
I know that others will propose a fully automatic system in which voltage actuated receptacle relays will choose which receptacle is connected and which is not. Go for it.
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That would be my concern - The unused receptacle presents male prongs, not just a female socket like a cord end. Anyone touches those male prongs at the back of the boat while the front is plugged in will get badly shocked. The cover provides a little protection, but only if it’s properly closed and no one (kids, dock hands, etc) opens it without thinking. A transfer switch can be used to prevent that situation.
Both outlets shouldn't be live at the same time. The inlets are male and the plug female. When one is live but not connected there are exposed live connections. Not good.
The anchor locker is probably a poor location for the other outlet, while it is convenient, it is also exceptionally wet. Between water coming over the bow and wet anchor rode it will be primed to accelerate corrosion of the inlet and connections.
The anchor locker is probably a poor location for the other outlet, while it is convenient, it is also exceptionally wet. Between water coming over the bow and wet anchor rode it will be primed to accelerate corrosion of the inlet and connections.
And when the label fades or falls off?
Adding a breaker to shut of the inlet is far better.
To be ABYC compliant, both inlets will need to have ECLIs installed. These can serve as the "on-switches" for the circuits. Also, the new inlet should have a galvanic isolator installed.
It might be easier and cheaper to buy a longer cord or a shorter extension cord. Running the cord along the side deck may be shorter than running along the finger and then to the boat.
There should be a transfer switch to prevent the exposed blades of the other power inlet from being energized and creating a hazard. The screw cover of the power inlet should not be the sole protection from exposed live terminals
My crew don't read no EngrishMeh. A simple label will fix that.
!I didn't know Vacouver was in Quebec.My crew don't read no Engrish
Fingers can easily get in to the male pins. You don't want to kill some curious kid.
I have a stern and bow service connection on my O’Day 322. I did not install them. There is no switch to deactivate one or the other. But the stern one is in a lazzarette and covered with a screw on cover. The bow location is in the anchor locker, and also covered with a metal cover. While it is possible that someone opened a cover for the unused connection, and could grab hold of the metal prongs, I have not tried to install a switch to isolate them.
The convenience of having a connection at the bow is really nice.
Greg
The convenience of having a connection at the bow is really nice.
Greg
I have a switch to separate port from starboard shore power connections. Both are on the coaming so we can plug in on the side away from the dock access, trip hazard. As many times as we dip the bow in the water an outlet wouldn’t last too long. I’ve seen boats with two 30amp cords with it tied to the stanchions to reach the bow finger supply pedestal. Would it be possible just to back in?
When I bought my first boat with shore power I thought about doing this. When I asked around the marina about it practically everyone had the same response. "What are you? Nuts?"
After three seasons with my boat, I do what everybody else does in my marina, run the shore power cable along the lifelines to the stern.
Here's my concern about having two shore power connections that are live at the same time.
Best practice to disconnect shore power is to turn power off at the pedestal and unplug the SP cable, then unplug the boat.
So, you return to the dock and plug in the shore power.
Now a forgetful owner, helpful dock neighbor, dock worker or even a future owner decides to plug in the second shore power connection, thinking that since it is there it must be plugged in.
Now this person plugs the cable into the boat and carries around the live male plug in his hand while walking to the pedestal.
Sounds like an accident waiting to happen.
After three seasons with my boat, I do what everybody else does in my marina, run the shore power cable along the lifelines to the stern.
Here's my concern about having two shore power connections that are live at the same time.
Best practice to disconnect shore power is to turn power off at the pedestal and unplug the SP cable, then unplug the boat.
So, you return to the dock and plug in the shore power.
Now a forgetful owner, helpful dock neighbor, dock worker or even a future owner decides to plug in the second shore power connection, thinking that since it is there it must be plugged in.
Now this person plugs the cable into the boat and carries around the live male plug in his hand while walking to the pedestal.
Sounds like an accident waiting to happen.
2 galvanic isolators are not necessary if the shore power grounds are joined at the shore side of the GI as they should be.
You should not join the hot and neutrals without an intervening switch as others have noted. ABYC specifically prohibits it as well:
11.5.3.6 Isolation of Sources - Individual circuits shall not be capable of being energized by more than one source of electrical power at a time. Each shore power inlet, generator, or inverter is considered a separate source of power.
11.5.3.6.2 Multiple Shore Power Inlets - Where more than one shore power inlet is used, the shore power neutrals shall not be connected together on board the boat.
You should not join the hot and neutrals without an intervening switch as others have noted. ABYC specifically prohibits it as well:
11.5.3.6 Isolation of Sources - Individual circuits shall not be capable of being energized by more than one source of electrical power at a time. Each shore power inlet, generator, or inverter is considered a separate source of power.
11.5.3.6.2 Multiple Shore Power Inlets - Where more than one shore power inlet is used, the shore power neutrals shall not be connected together on board the boat.