Pearson 33...?

Ray Bowles · Jun 16, 2014

A 40 year old boat being offered far below market value, and that hasn't already sold, must have issues, big issues. That boat has already exceeded the point where age problems start showing and these are usually major.
A surveyor should be hired to check the centerboard assembly and the centerboard housing and controls. Then check the rudder, steering gear and prop shaft assembly. These are all items that require a haul-out to really access and problems here are all over $1,000.
Then move to look at the bottom for soundness and blisters. The engine should be checked out for wear, motor mounts, pumps and transmission also would be covered in a survey. Don't forget the sails because new ones will be another $2000+.
In many cases a low-ball cost boat can still cost too much even if given to you.
If this boat is your fathers and has been in the family since new then I could be wrong.
If my dad owned it I'd be asking a very low price.
Ray

Tim R. · Jun 17, 2014

Pearsons were generally built well and sail well. I am not familiar with the 33 of that vintage but we had a 1976 28 that was a great sailer and was built very well. You could trim the sails so that the boat needed no steering input. Again, that is the 28. The 33 may be completely different. Bill Shaw designed many of their boats and all his designs were very good.

RECESS · Jun 17, 2014

We own a 1982 Pearson 323 (32ft). She is a 3/4 keel. Well built, strong like ox. That is back when they laid the glass thick. Our boat is just alright in light winds, really bones in with moderate winds, and kicks ass in heavy wind. We are out sailing in 35 knot wind while others are getting back to the marina. They also do not get pushed around in heavy seas. They are very comfortable at the dock. Shaw designed great boats. I cannot give any details about the keel design on your boat other than it is not a bolt on design, so that is good. If it is a solid clean boat with minimal needs, I would jump. Pearsons from that era need a couple things addressed. The mast step needs to be closely looked at for corrosion and the mast possibly cut at the base and the mast step raised. Also if the chain plates have not been replaced yet, replace them.

Sandy Stone · Jun 17, 2014

Looking at the page on Sailboat data, the P33 looks like a scaled down version of the P35, a very popular keel-centerboard cruiser. I have owned a P26OD and a P32, very different boats than the 33, but both Bill Shaw designs that were well built and sailed great. With a 40 year old boat, previous maintenance and condition is everything, but if you are satisfied with that I think you will be very happy owning and sailing her. If you have any concerns about resale value, keep in mind a gas engine will have a negative impact.

capta · Jun 17, 2014

Sorry, like all above, our Pearson is a different model. However, it is a centerboarder and an early 80's Bill Shaw boat, and we really like it. Never had any issues with blisters, delamination or construction faults.

Griz83 · Jul 31, 2014

We have a 1972 P-33; and I have sailed on various Pearsons for years. My dad owns a 30. The 33 is built like a tank, like all Pearsons. The K/CB arrangement was a very popular for many years up until IOR; and if the new J 95 with a K/CB is any indication, may be coming back into favor. The 33 goes pretty well to weather with the board up, and quite well with the board down. Sailing on inland water, we love the draft with the board up. Bill Shaw, the designer, much preferred a centerboard to a wing keel, which began popularity following the '83 America's Cup.

The 33 is in some ways a scaled down P-35. However, unlike the 35, the 33 is not a full keel boat. The underwater profile is more like a Pearson 39. You could also think of it as a 323 with a centerboard to improve upwind performance.

I was pleasantly surprised at how spry she is for a boat with a K/CB and a skeg rudder. Very comparable to the maneuverability of my dad's 30 with a fin/spade. All weather we've had her out in has been taken in stride. A typical CCA design, she cuts through the water because of the nice narrow beam and good overhangs. Sailing motion is quite comfortable, especially compared to so many of today's super beamy boats. She just "looks right" also. The 33 will perform a bit better than the 323, especially in light air.

All of the comments regarding what to check are good. Although, if the boat has been in fresh water the corrosion won't be as much of an issue. I'm sure you know to have a surveyor check everything. But, if there are no major issues, go for it! You won't be disappointed in performance, livability, or build quality, especially moving up from a Catalina 27.

I have copies of 2 different brochures ('69 and '72). PM me and I can send them to you if you'd like.

Ross · Jul 31, 2014

Don't be too quick to condemn a boat because it isn't selling. You can't sell a boat when there are no buyers. I have had my Islander on the market since January and have had only six casual inquiries.

bffatcat · Aug 1, 2014

pearson`s

Ive owned 2 of them first was a 74 10 meter 33ft but quite different from a P33 The second is my current boat a 75 p26w. both were excellent sailers shaw designs solidly built

Any boat of that vintage is going to have issues. get a good surveyor add up the numbers the pro`s and cons and then decide. Unfortunately you got one big isssue the Atomic 4

good luck

MikeInMaine · Sep 23, 2014

1970 P33-1 Bill Shaw

We really like our 1970 Bill Shaw P33. Simple boat. Easy to work on. sails fine. Stable. Minimal weather helm.. but we're quick to reef the main. Much dryer boat that our old Pearson Triton.

Ditto on the things to watch out for. I'll add that the centerboard is lifted by a cable on a drum and sistered on the drum is the lifting line that pokes thru to the cockpit. The cable travels down a metal tube, thru the bilge and into the centerboard trunk where it attaches to the board. The tube has a fitting at the bow end of its bilge run that can be a leak problem. We have not yet attacked our board/cable attachment but plan on replacing it and the cable one of these years. If you lose the cable you'll be sailing with a 7'-ish draft instead of 4'. It amazing how much more roll you get with the board up. If you leave it down for sleeping to reduce boat roll you'll also probably hear it banging back and forth in its home a bit.

We really like skeg hung rudder for its durability.

With her roller reefing she's an easy single-hander for me. Cockpit is ultra roomy and the cabin is big enough with a table you can walk by to get to the head and vberth. We have the cruising interior. There was also a "competition interior with a quarterberth.

Working on the back of the engine, exhaust, fuel tank, and electrical is fairly easy because I can climb right down into the aft bilge from the cockpit seats. I'm 5' 11" and 210lbs.. so its a pretty big opening for me to fit thru.

The original fuel tank is installed under the cockpit floor and the stuffing box is located under the tank, making it a bit difficult to get to but doable.

We got ours cheap and have been chipping away at upgrades and such. All our own labor of course.

Mike

SoloGlider said:
Hi everyone,

Recently, a 1974 Pearson 33 with shoal keel and centerboard was offered to me far below its market value and it has really caught my attention. Like any boat of its age there are issues; none of which seem to be deal breakers. That aside, what I am hoping to get from you are some thoughts about Pearson 33s of this vintage, their sailing characteristics, build quality, issues, etc..

I look forward to your comments.

Thanks!

Stu Jackson · Sep 23, 2014

I, too, disagree with the immediate resistance to the deal.

Pearsons are great boats. Our dock neighbor had a P33 next to us for many years. Very nice boats, nice layout below, too.

Thing I noticed was that due to the gunwhale teak trim, the deck didn't drain too well back near the cockpit. He also had a louvre to the port locker that would seem to be counter-productive to water-tightness, although that could have been added by a PO and not a standard feature. Other than that, properly rigged it's a fine vessel, with solid gear.

You might be interested in this to check it out for yourself.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=102541

Good luck, hope it works out for you.

Gary Calahan · Jan 23, 2018

ALL PEARSON 33 OWNERS OR PREVIOUS OWNERS!

I have a 1972 Pearson 33 that has been on the hill for the last year that I spent rebuilding her. I too have questions about sailing characteristics. BTW....mine is competition interior with CB removed and slot in mod shoal keel glasses over. I can not find anything about the P33 and would like to hear about your experience especially offshore. Anyone have a brochure?

Respectfully,

glcalahan

sailnoproblem · Jan 23, 2018

bffatcat said:
pearson`s

Ive owned 2 of them first was a 74 10 meter 33ft but quite different from a P33 The second is my current boat a 75 p26w. both were excellent sailers shaw designs solidly built

Any boat of that vintage is going to have issues. get a good surveyor add up the numbers the pro`s and cons and then decide. Unfortunately you got one big isssue the Atomic 4

good luck

it's the atomic 4 was well maintained it should cause no problems. I rebuilt mine and haven't had any problems whatsoever. after all buying a 1974 boat certainly is not an investment that you can turn around and make money on. she's an old boat solid as hell just have fun.

Rick486 · Jan 24, 2018

In my sailing career I owned 4 Pearson yachts. 2 Ensign one design racing/day sailing boats 22 ft LOA, a 1974 Pearson 30, and finally a 1971 Pearson 39 yawl which we owned for 24 years and cruised New England to New York. In addition, we chartered a 33 such as yours back before we bought our 30. Pearsons in that day were generally built very strong and carried fairly short rigs, in keeping with the Narragansett Bay/RI Sound generally heavy air sailing. The 33 is a nice, comfortable boat built very heavy. I still have a 1-1/2 inch plug I cut out of the hull of our 39 to install a through hull fitting. As I recall, the hulls were solid glass and the decks were plywood sandwich construction. In all our Pearson yachts we never had leaks from anything. I recall the deck to hull joints in our 39 were through bolted and glued, and the 30 were heavy fiberglass. All our boats were joys to own and never failed to get us to safe harbor. The POs of our 39 sailed her to the Barbados and back.
You could do much worse than owning a P33. Treat her right and she will take care of you.

kevinhickox · Oct 13, 2020

MikeInMaine said:
1970 P33-1 Bill Shaw

We really like our 1970 Bill Shaw P33. Simple boat. Easy to work on. sails fine. Stable. Minimal weather helm.. but we're quick to reef the main. Much dryer boat that our old Pearson Triton.

Ditto on the things to watch out for. I'll add that the centerboard is lifted by a cable on a drum and sistered on the drum is the lifting line that pokes thru to the cockpit. The cable travels down a metal tube, thru the bilge and into the centerboard trunk where it attaches to the board. The tube has a fitting at the bow end of its bilge run that can be a leak problem. We have not yet attacked our board/cable attachment but plan on replacing it and the cable one of these years. If you lose the cable you'll be sailing with a 7'-ish draft instead of 4'. It amazing how much more roll you get with the board up. If you leave it down for sleeping to reduce boat roll you'll also probably hear it banging back and forth in its home a bit.

We really like skeg hung rudder for its durability.

With her roller reefing she's an easy single-hander for me. Cockpit is ultra roomy and the cabin is big enough with a table you can walk by to get to the head and vberth. We have the cruising interior. There was also a "competition interior with a quarterberth.

Working on the back of the engine, exhaust, fuel tank, and electrical is fairly easy because I can climb right down into the aft bilge from the cockpit seats. I'm 5' 11" and 210lbs.. so its a pretty big opening for me to fit thru.

The original fuel tank is installed under the cockpit floor and the stuffing box is located under the tank, making it a bit difficult to get to but doable.

We got ours cheap and have been chipping away at upgrades and such. All our own labor of course.

Mike

I've got a 1970 33. The rudder keel and shoe broke off and I've recreated it with epoxy and 1708. I am new to glassing and am not sure if this is the best bond or if I should have used polyester? Now I'm reinforcing the bow/pulpit and anchor locker.Should I use epoxy inside and polyester for the deck.

Davidasailor26 · Oct 13, 2020

kevinhickox said:
I've got a 1970 33. The rudder keel and shoe broke off and I've recreated it with epoxy and 1708. I am new to glassing and am not sure if this is the best bond or if I should have used polyester? Now I'm reinforcing the bow/pulpit and anchor locker.Should I use epoxy inside and polyester for the deck.

Generally speaking you can’t go wrong using epoxy over polyester from a bonding strength standpoint. One downside of epoxy is that it’s harder to gelcoat over, but for your under the waterline repairs that should be a non-issue, just fair and paint it anyway. For your deck repairs you might need to decide on how you’ll be finishing the surface to make the best decision. The BoatworksToday YouTube channel has several videos that detail the pros and cons of each. One of his last couple uploads has a discussion of it as well.

By the way, welcome to the forum! Don’t be shy about creating a new thread if you have a new question. You might find you get more engagement than jumping into old threads.