Recommendations for Diesel Engine Mechanic in Vancouver BC
- Thread starter Guan
- Start date
That would most likely be Stem to Stern:
www.stemtostern.net
If you use any other company, ask to see their factory training certificate. Without certification, you may as well throw you engine over the side right now from some of the tales I've heard.
BTW, what are you looking to have done ? If it's simple, you'll be able to find the instructions here in the archives.
Stem to Stern
www.stemtostern.net
If you use any other company, ask to see their factory training certificate. Without certification, you may as well throw you engine over the side right now from some of the tales I've heard.
BTW, what are you looking to have done ? If it's simple, you'll be able to find the instructions here in the archives.
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thks Ralph...had a bad experience with StS n u right. Even a registered mechanic advice complete engine and gear box removal with a crane when only a slight tuned up of the fuel screw to set idling revs to 1000 instead of 600.That would most likely be Stem to Stern:
Stem to Stern
If you use any other company, ask to see their factory training certificate. Without certification, you may as well throw you engine over the side right now from some of the tales I've heard.
BTW, what are you looking to have done ? If it's simple, you'll be able to find the instructions here in the archives.
I get white smoke after running the engine for 30 minutes. But not always!
Also the tacho goes from 0 to normal n back to zero.
Nothing loose, no slipped belts. Just erratic than can be normal for rest of the time.
the tack signal comes from the alternator so remove, clean, add dielectric grease and reinstall all electrical connections between the two. Mine just started doing the same thing so now I know what I need to do next outing! 
Laurence Abro at Granville Island is a fine mechanic. laurence@triton-pacific.com
His company is called Triton Pacific. He did great work on my little Yanmar and is a trustworthy guy.
His company is called Triton Pacific. He did great work on my little Yanmar and is a trustworthy guy.
Don't know what to say here as I don't know what the problem is with the engine.
Don't know what type of engine you have but 1,000 RPM is getting excessive for idle RPM. Causes wear and tear on the clutch as well as the speed is bit troublesome for maneuvering into your berth.
Could you please post the make, model, and age of your engine.
Follow @Hayden Watson 's recommendations for good electrical continuity. RPM signal will come from either the alternator or the flywheel depending on the make of the engine.
This is most likely due to:
a) a lack of sufficient sea water in the exhaust
b) coolant in the exhaust.
1. Check your mixing elbow temp. with an IR gun or barring that, use your hand the next time it steams. The elbow should not be too much above body temperature.
2. Have you tested your high temp. alarm recently ? It may not be alarming.
3. Are you losing coolant ?
I don’t want to be accused of piling on; but, they lost my confidence a few years ago and it would take some convincing for me to use them again.
Once again, find this most unusual. Can you enlarge upon this ?
I have been into their Powell Street shop numerous times and always manage get into a conversation with their people and I see within minutes the person knows engines. Not like talking to the usual dock monkeys who don't know what an engine is let alone how to spell the word.
Ralph, not to burn bridges but you asked.
It included StS using an incorrect technical procedure to drain and add oil to my sail drive transmission, using incorrect transmission fluid (90W vice 15W40) and added costs to me due to their poor planning. WRT the latter, StS had 5 months notice to do the work but had to air freight parts overnight from Florida at the last minute. Fortunately for them, the StS tech did leave a copy of the ZF sail drive manual for me. Had I not read the manual that night and had not pointed out their mistake with transmission fluid prior to going back in the water and making the 40nm trip back across the Strait of Georgia and beyond, major damage and cost to repair the transmission would certainly have resulted.
.
One man, one experience.
YIPES
! ! ! Well, it happened. Thankfully you got your hands on the manual before the 90W went in and the next indication would have been the sail drive falling off in mid Strait or worse. I just don't know what to say.If nothing else, it just further knocks it into my head that NO ONE else does any work on my boat. From swinging from the top of the mast to laying in the bilge, I'm lucky enough to have the interest to drive me to want to research each job and do it myself.
The 90W went in but was removed and replaced the following day with the 15W40. That was completed prior to the boat going back in the water.YIPES
If nothing else, it just further knocks it into my head that NO ONE else does any work on my boat. From swinging from the top of the mast to laying in the bilge, I'm lucky enough to have the interest to drive me to want to research each job and do it myself.
Ralph, I also try to do everything on my boat (and at home) except that which I lack formal education and/or experience necessary to do a job properly. This sail drive ‘thingy‘ was something new to me and the boat was only 18 months old. So I had also asked StS to ensure that I was present when they replaced the zinc and changed the oil. That did not happen. The ZF technical procedure emphasizes to add the 15W40 oil to the sail leg drive from the drain plug using a low pressure pump. That did not happen as the tech added the oil from the top. The ZF tech manual also says to replace the o-ring on the sail drive drain/fill plug each time it is removed. It is literally a 10 cent part but it is critical that it does not fail given the plug is 24” below the waterline. Before my next haulout, I phoned StS to determine the size (thickness and diameter) so, unlike them, I could have the necessary parts prior to commencing the job. I was told they used the old one. Urrrg.
I am currently in Squirrel Cove, Desolation Sound and I am going for a dinghy ride.
RALPH: Westerbeke 30B3, 2001, 1800hrs.That would most likely be Stem to Stern:
Stem to Stern
If you use any other company, ask to see their factory training certificate. Without certification, you may as well throw you engine over the side right now from some of the tales I've heard.
BTW, what are you looking to have done ? If it's simple, you'll be able to find the instructions here in the archives.
says idle is 1000rpm.
Yeah yesterday left dock on engine for 40mins. 1500 as in channel, then after 3hrs' sailing when engine restarted....white smoke at above 2000.
will do tksthe tack signal comes from the alternator so remove, clean, add dielectric grease and reinstall all electrical connections between the two. Mine just started doing the same thing so now I know what I need to do next outing!
When I first got this boat I noticed the tacho wasn't working when return from a rigging company in N. Van.
So StS was recommended and they sent out a mechanic who potted around for 15mins n a quick phone video of the back of the dash.
He then adviced to stick a piece of tape on the engine flywheel and read revs from his instrument. He kindly recommended that I buy same from Canadian Tire.
Then left.
My grand father if alive would have taught me same.
Tacho was still dead.
That StS guy no sailor, as I really don't wanna lift up the stairs n read my rev speed each time while driving!!!
So luckily got another guy an electrician ($60) he diagnosed a lose wire probably from the riggers trying to install a negative wire for my hanging boat zinc salmon.
Worse I got a +400$ bill from StS for the ancient lesson.
So StS was recommended and they sent out a mechanic who potted around for 15mins n a quick phone video of the back of the dash.
He then adviced to stick a piece of tape on the engine flywheel and read revs from his instrument. He kindly recommended that I buy same from Canadian Tire.
Then left.
My grand father if alive would have taught me same.
Tacho was still dead.
That StS guy no sailor, as I really don't wanna lift up the stairs n read my rev speed each time while driving!!!
So luckily got another guy an electrician ($60) he diagnosed a lose wire probably from the riggers trying to install a negative wire for my hanging boat zinc salmon.
Worse I got a +400$ bill from StS for the ancient lesson.
will dothe tack signal comes from the alternator so remove, clean, add dielectric grease and reinstall all electrical connections between the two. Mine just started doing the same thing so now I know what I need to do next outing!
OK, OK I won't say anything more about StS as they do not seem to be doing well at all by the anecdotes here. My only contact with them is to purchase parts and shoot the breeze about engines.
Now, back to the white smoke. Need answers to these before we move on:
Now, back to the white smoke. Need answers to these before we move on: