Centerboard issues on Hunter 240

Jun 2, 2020
3
Hunter 240 Trois-Rivières
Hi everyone! I bought my first boat last spring and pretty much trusted the seller that it was in good shape (I know.. will no make that mistake twice). So I replaced a few small parts and enjoyed the summer... End of the summer, I had a doubt about the centerboard, but hard to see anything on the trailer. This spring, the centerboard was quite dry when I had a second look... long story short the board was split open on most of the length and I have been told no real repair is possible and I have to either rebuild one from scratch or buy a new one.

I forgot to tell you I'm pregnant, due end of September and really want to enjoy my last summer without kids on the boat. Either buying or making a new centerboard would take too long for my impatient pregnant self. I discussed with my reference at the boat store and decided to make a fix so I can at least enjoy the summer. So we have been working on that and we should put the centerboard back in place this weekend. It might last a season or two according to the guy from the part shop. Few questions following that quite long story:

#1 The outside part of my through hull fitting broke when taking the board out, is this piece necessary to avoid rubbing or other problem?

#2 If it is, to get access to the other half of the fitting, I guess I need to remove the plate where the centerboard bracket attach? I have been trying to remove this plate since some water came in that way last year... without success so far.

#3 Did anyone replace their centerboard for the HDPE centerboard made by Ruddercraft? Any comments on that? Is it the only place that make these?

#4 Any chance I could find a used centerboard in good condition somewhere close by. I am in Quebec and by the way, sorry if my technical English is not perfect.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,776
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I had a ruddercraft rudder on a balboa 26 that I used to own. I was very impressed with it.

You might try writing to boat yards that got hit by hurricanes last season. They often have a pile of parts they are trying to sell.

And pictures would probably yield better answers with more technical advise.
 
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Jun 2, 2020
3
Hunter 240 Trois-Rivières
Thanks for the quick answers, I'm adding a bunch a pictures. Unfortunately, I didn't take much pictures of the original damage on cb, but this should give you an idea.
Original damage:
IMG_20200514_090336.jpg


Filled with polyester paste:
IMG_20200601_155906.jpg
IMG_20200601_160049.jpg


Leftover gaps filled with epoxy paste:
IMG_20200603_074800.jpg
IMG_20200603_074726.jpg


Now we have to sandpaper it and make a fiberglass patch all the way around.

The thru-hull that broke had the cb line going through:
IMG_20200603_074945.jpg


Finally the plate where the cb bracket attach (where I removed about a whole tube of sikaflex trying to get it off):
IMG_20200603_074335.jpg
 

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Jun 8, 2004
10,531
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Former retired hunter dealer who sold nearly 1/5 of production line and very much involved with the design. Would you want my help. Where are you located. Everyone knows me as Crazy Dave Condon. Dealership name was American Marine & Sail Supply.

Caverun is also a good source too. I know rgranger and Caverun
 
Jun 2, 2020
3
Hunter 240 Trois-Rivières
Former retired hunter dealer who sold nearly 1/5 of production line and very much involved with the design. Would you want my help. Where are you located. Everyone knows me as Crazy Dave Condon. Dealership name was American Marine & Sail Supply.

Caverun is also a good source too. I know rgranger and Caverun
I have read many many forum discussions involving you and these 2 guys on here before to register and post. I was actually really hoping to get a reply from you, hehe. Any help would be much appreciated, but I am in Trois-Rivières, Québec.
 
Dec 2, 2003
766
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
I’m sure Dave will run through it all with you but from the looks of the thru hull it looks like a fairly standard plastic straight thru hull. Likely available here on SBO.

Assuming the 240 is the same as the 260 you will need to remove the compression post first in order to remove the top of the Center board bracket.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,531
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Please everyone hold up. Centerboard line running through the cabin is different from 260. Working with those to include who would know. Just posted for help in identifying a part as the best of the best to include SBO are stumped
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,531
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Waiting on response for Stephanie to respond with a photo of interior ceiling photo for confirmation so I can advise. I like to have all facts before me to be accurate. @Stephanie StP please respond. Sent private message
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,531
-na -NA Anywhere USA
First, I want to respond how to fix knowing all the answers which is why this took so long as the owner of SBO, members of the forum, and others behind the scenes were able to help me. I will reference photos from this thread and another that I posted for the 240 white flexible tubing which you will need to refer to as well. It is now my understanding from the owner that the repaired centerboard was reinstalled on Saturday.

First, the centerboard line runs thru the mast foot roller thru a thru hull 3/4 inch white hose barb the style that Caverun posted in the other thread down thru a white corrogated plastic tube thru another 3/4 inch black hose barb secured in place with hose clamps. To access the ceiling thru hull hose barb, the mast foot has to be removed by unscrewing the bolts that are probably secured to aluminum plates embedded in the fiberglass deck.
The old sealant is probably 5200 and replacing that thru deck fitting, I would use 4200 sealant. You have to make sure to lock that thru deck fitting with the locking collar making sure the top of that fitting does not turn. Then clean any excess caulk. Then rebed the mast foot back in place in the correct direction. Run a messenger line thru so it is dangling inside the cabin with the other end outside tied to something.

If the bottom 3/4 hose barb is broken off, then the centerboard and centerboard bracket have to come out following the instructions above but would use 5200 instead because you are near the water line. Now run the messenger line thru the white flexible tubing and down into the bottom hose barb into the center board housing. Secure the flexible tube onto the hose barbs with hose clamps. It is imperative that both hose barbs are well caulked to prevent intrusion of water from damaging the boat.

If the centerboard line has never been replaced, it is time to do so with the centerboard and bracket out. When taking the centerboard bracket out, mark which two of the three holes were used on the bracket. In addition when putting the pins back into the bracket, apply duck tape to hold them in place. The centerboard retaining bolt is 3/4 inch thread with a 1 1/8 inch head. Always make sure alignment of the centerboard bracket goes straight up and HAND THREAD THAT BOLT IN FIRST TO AVOID CROSS THREADING. When the bolt is secured in place, place a small bead of sealant around the base of the head of the bolt.

When I saw the wide gap between the two halves of the centerboard, it is one of the worst I have seen. Simply put, the bottom of the centerboard was severely damaged by water intrusion probably damaging the head as well. In addition I am not sure with the centerboard which had swelled would fit into the centerboard housing and if it did, would it be stuck. Although worthwhile, my suggestion to the owner is to rethink about getting a new center board as we fear it will break off dangling in some cases causing issues on reloading onto the trailer as well.

In addition, I would have suggested replacing the centerboard line as well which is 7/16 inch only purchased from the SBO store as it is some of the best I have found. An old line like that only lasts so long.

I can only advise but it is up to the owner to make that decision on what to do.

Dave Condon
 
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