Jib Halyard/Sheet Replacement

[FastOlson]

In quarter inch size, the Samson XLS3 rates 2400# break strength. The New England Ropes T-900 rates 4700#.
In the real world one will stretch quite a bit more than the other. Less stretch is a Good Thing when setting up the halyard on a windy day.

 

[Joe]

Here's my 2 cents. Build yourself a "tapered" halyard.... this means starting with a 3/16" dyneema core (stronger and lighter than steel with practically no stretch). Samson rope's dyneema single braid product is called "Amsteel". This core will be the load bearing part of your halyard. Then sheath the handled area of your halyard with a 5/16th cover. You can use an inexpensive double braid such as Samson LS. as the cover by removing its core.... actually using its core to fish the dyneema single braid in its place. There is one very easy splice you'll need to perform... it's called a "bury" splice and you can find the instructions on the Samson Ropes website's splicing guide. This is the "taper", where the core exits the cover..... What you'll end up with is a very professional looking and performing halyard that will run easily through the masthead sheave with the 3/16 single braid core, and will be handles, winched and cleated easily with the 5/16 covered area. The total cost of the 3/16 Dyneema and 5/16 cover will be considerably less than a new wire to rope, or a complete high quality all rope 5/16 halyard. I don't recommend 1/4" halyards....they're just not comfortable in the hand. If you did want them though, you can cover the handled, cleated, winched section(i.e. bottom half) with a 3/8" cover.
On my 27 footer, with halyards run aft, I use 85 feet of 3/16 Samson Amsteel, covered with 40 feet of 5/16 Samson LS. They make a dedicated cover that has an internal messenger line also.
Trust me, you'll be glad you made the upgrade and proud of how if shows on your boat.

 

[jssailem]

Hey to you @EnamrdSalr21 and welcome to the fellowship of Cal owners. The guys pretty much have you wired in on the halyards. Looks like the mast is down so I would clean and lube the sheaves as you go about solving the halyard situation.

I switched to all line on my halyards 2 years ago. Would not go back to the "Wire Rope" system.

You got a great place to sail in Indiana.

 

[EnamrdSalr21]

Here's my 2 cents. Build yourself a "tapered" halyard.... this means starting with a 3/16" dyneema core (stronger and lighter than steel with practically no stretch). Samson rope's dyneema single braid product is called "Amsteel". This core will be the load bearing part of your halyard. Then sheath the handled area of your halyard with a 5/16th cover. You can use an inexpensive double braid such as Samson LS. as the cover by removing its core.... actually using its core to fish the dyneema single braid in its place. There is one very easy splice you'll need to perform... it's called a "bury" splice and you can find the instructions on the Samson Ropes website's splicing guide.

Is this a splice I would perform myself? Sounds interesting and unique. I just wouldn’t want to make the investment and then not be able to execute the splice properly.

 

[EnamrdSalr21]

You got a great place to sail in Indiana.

Couldn’t agree more I’m so excited I found this little piece of heaven (meaning eagle creek specifically) and the joy of sailing to go with it.

 

[PaulK]

Is this a splice I would perform myself? Sounds interesting and unique. I just wouldn’t want to make the investment and then not be able to execute the splice properly.

You are sailing a Cal 21, the last of which was built in 1972, on a lake. Tapering your halyards would be overkill, both in cost, time and effort. If you were sailing a Viper in a competitive fleet on Lake Michigan it would be different.

 

[Joe]

Is this a splice I would perform myself? Sounds interesting and unique. I just wouldn’t want to make the investment and then not be able to execute the splice properly.

The splice is shown below in the attachment. It is way, way easier than a double braid eye splice. This "taper" splice is for either stripping the cover of a core dependent double braid, or... covering a high performance single braid. You can use a simple fid or knitting needle for the project.

In response to the nay sayers..... I chose the tapered halyard option for my boat because I wanted all rope and the masthead sheave would not accommodate any larger than 1/4" diameter... it was not about racing. There is no such thing as overkill when you're actually saving money. If you think the splice would be too difficult, any rigging shop can make it. Here's an online company that will do the splice for $32. In the picture a "luggage tage" eye was spliced in for the halyard shackle. That's optional.... may not work with your swivel... but again, eye splicing single braid with the "bury" technique is not difficult. The other eye splice is not needed.

 

[Mr Fox]

Could you explain the benefit of the 1/4” line spliced to smaller? Is it just for handling? Not being contrary, I am simply curious, since the strength would be determined by the thinner line, and 1/4 seems overkill on the posters rig, no? Also you couldn’t reverse the halyard later, correct?

Btw my ‘69 Rhodes 19 had wire/line halyards, such a pain; they wear out and jam sheaves, have little metal splinters as the strands break apart. The best part is when they coil up like that, and you slip while attaching the shackle and boing! You just skyed the halyard. So fun. Replaced them right after I did that.

 

[Dave Groshong]

Samson XLS3 is an excellent all around line for most applications, 0.75/ft in 8mm=5/16, eye splices are $20 which includes a whipped end. The appropriate headboard shackle for that boat is $22.
dave
877-932-7245 x116

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

You can tie the halyard shackle on with (real name of knot) a 'Halyard Hitch'. No need to put in a splice unless you want to do it for fun. Note that if you use a knot, it's easy to end-for-end the line when you take it down for a quick wash every year or two.
Gotta say, at $.41 per foot, are they quoting stretchy cheap "yacht braid" ? That seems unrealistically inexpensive to me.
Try not to buy the cheapest line... you might get exactly what you pay for.
Of course, if you are skint, then you do the best you can, and just plan on regularly re-tensioning halyards when/if the wind rises.

Buntline hitch. That's all I've used on halyards for years. Also saves having to end for end- just cut a foot off and retie

 

[FastOlson]

Several of our EY.org site members contributed some good thoughts on the subject in this thread:

Halyard Shackle Knot questions

I have gotten along fine with "anchor bend" knots to hold our hi-tech halyards to their snap shackles for over a decade. This week I started the little project of bringing the halyards down one at a time to run them gently through the wash. (Cold water, mild soap, thorough rinse, and air...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Sailfanatic]

You want a low stretch line for halyards, and very low stretch for the jib halyard, see

Since I switched to all rope halyards I have relied on the halyard hitch to attach the shackle. I like using a hitch rather than a splice, as my furling setup has a masthead halyard retainer which frays a spot on the halyard over time, with a hitch I can just cut a foot off ever few years and that re-freshens the wear point. If you have a retainer, be sure to include a extra ten feet of line on the halyard.

FWIW, the twist in your wire is likely due to furling the jib when the halyard was eased - always furl the sail before easing the halyard. Re-tension the halyard before unfurling...

 

[Mr Fox]

Mine twisted due to age, I have no furler on the Rhodes 19, and both the main and jib twisted up like a spring.