Fiddle Block Help.

[MikeHoncho]

I have a elderly Schaefer traveler with a fiddle block/cam cleat attached to the car. The attachment point broke tonight. It looks like it had a pin that attached the block to the car via a "saddle" type piece of hardware allowing the joint to flex on two planes. I don't know the name of this piece. The fiddle block side has a very close clearance and a hole in it were the pin went through it. The car end of the pin had a flattened head like a rivet that went through the "saddle" . I don't know what the block end had but it must have been removable because it couldn't be removable on the saddle end with the rivet end.
As you can see in the picture the clearance is minimal. I need insight of what was used? The block end of the pin went flying and I couldn't find it.
In the pictures I lashed the pieces together with lashing wire to finish the day.
I hope I'm not being too confusing.

 

[Hunter216]

Do any of these look correct?

Schaefer Marine Online Store

Since 1966, Schaefer Marine has stood at the forefront of Marine hardware design and engineering. We offer rugged, durable gear that will perform no matter how demanding the conditions. Our e-commerce store provide direct to consumer pricing and product availability to fit your marine needs.

hardware.schaefermarine.com

 

[dlochner]

Have you tried contacting Schaeffer? I'm sure they have drawings of the part, they may even make a new one for you.

Or it might just be time to upgrade the traveller.

 

[jssailem]

Mike I think you lost 2 pieces
The Traveler block looked something like this.

The pin would have had a cotter pin or a circ pin on the other side holding it in place. That likely broke or wiggled out and the pin went flying Or fell on to the cockpit deck some where.

The block had a strap of some sort.. Have not been able to find the matching block on Schaefer site. I suspect the block attqched with a 90 degree turn to make it attach to the traveler car.

 

[jssailem]

Most Traveler fiddle blocks I have seen used have a pin that rotates at the base. Something like this:

This allows the block to rotate in orientation to the block on the boom. That is the basic design.

Your block has a strap which you used to wire tie to the traveler. If the block has a hole in that strap then the pin fit into the hole and through years of service broke.

These blocks come in many shapes and sizes. You will want one that will serve the type of forces your main sail will exert.

 

[Terry Cox]

Did what Dave suggested when it came time to replace our two reefing sheet blocks. Sent pictures to the maker and they knew exactly the model and size.

I have two Schaefer blocks like John’s picture, but used at the end of the boom for topping lift trim. Paid $15 for each at a local consignment shop. Good product.

 

[All U Get]

We’ve had several blocks repaired like new from Schaefer Marine, ask for Joy, she helped us a lot. We also toured their shop when they rebuilt our windlass.

 

[Ron20324]

This is a good time to nag all you folks into not only getting all the manuals for all your equipment, but take pictures of everything on the boat. Those brown blocks are antiques, and it looks like the OP is cracking on the lower left side. Get an all-new one.

 

[dlochner]

We’ve had several blocks repaired like new from Schaefer Marine, ask for Joy, she helped us a lot. We also toured their shop when they rebuilt our windlass.

At the Annapolis Boat Show I took a look at the Schaeffer products and I was impressed. It seems back in the day some of their products were OK, but not particularly robust. I have a lot of those blocks sitting in boxes in my basement. The current crop of blocks appear to be more robust and have ball bearings, a feature absent in the old blocks. A few years back I would not have considered Schaeffer blocks, now I'd put them right up there with Garhauer.

Their furling units are pretty awesome. There is one sitting in my living room waiting for spring. Nicely built, simple, and easy to maintain. For the hardcore racer the round foil might be a deal breaker, for the rest of us, not so much.

 

[Hunter216]

This is a good time to nag all you folks into not only getting all the manuals for all your equipment, but take pictures of everything on the boat. Those brown blocks are antiques, and it looks like the OP is cracking on the lower left side. Get an all-new one.

I have no doubt you are correct but if I zoom in on the original post photos I don’t see a crack?? Can you elaborate of what you see?

 

[Ron20324]

I have no doubt you are correct but if I zoom in on the original post photos I don’t see a crack?? Can you elaborate of what you see?

Sure. In the wide angle pic, go to full screen. Just left of the "CW" I think it is, you can see a problem already, or in the making.

 

[Hunter216]

I think this is what you mean. Good catch - having that pop fully loaded might “leave a mark” as they say

 

[MikeHoncho]

Mike I think you lost 2 pieces
The Traveler block looked something like this.
View attachment 171668
The pin would have had a cotter pin or a circ pin on the other side holding it in place. That likely broke or wiggled out and the pin went flying Or fell on to the cockpit deck some where.

The block had a strap of some sort.. Have not been able to find the matching block on Schaefer site. I suspect the block attqched with a 90 degree turn to make it attach to the traveler car.

I removed the pin to use the lashing wire.

 

[MikeHoncho]

Mike I think you lost 2 pieces
The Traveler block looked something like this.
View attachment 171668
The pin would have had a cotter pin or a circ pin on the other side holding it in place. That likely broke or wiggled out and the pin went flying Or fell on to the cockpit deck some where.

The block had a strap of some sort.. Have not been able to find the matching block on Schaefer site. I suspect the block attqched with a 90 degree turn to make it attach to the traveler car.

This is a good time to nag all you folks into not only getting all the manuals for all your equipment, but take pictures of everything on the boat. Those brown blocks are antiques, and it looks like the OP is cracking on the lower left side. Get an all-new one.

No cracks. I took s second look tonight. It is a gauge in the plastic. Cinch blocks work fine.

 

[MikeHoncho]

Went down to the boat tonight because I forgot my wallet. Instead of fighting traffic coming back I decided to stay and mess around with it. Considering the pictures posted by others and looking at other hardware, I'm certain block was attached to the car with a swivel and the pin broke. I replaced the original half of it with a larger shackle and used a dynema soft shackle ring spliced up, doubled up. Definetly have some wear points but probably stronger than the rest of the rigging.

 

[jssailem]

That looks to work. Will be on your inspection list prior to sailing. “Inspect the Fiddle Block SOFT SHACKLE”. Go sailing.

NICE.

 

[MikeHoncho]

I've switched all of my blocks attached to my toe rails to soft shakle attachments and have been very pleased. Dynema feels very vulnerable to chaffe but it has been very resistive.

 

[jssailem]

It’s great stuff. I attach my preventer to my bow with as soft shackle. At $2.50 a piece and 10K break strength I wouldn’t be able to afford one made out of steel or carry it in my pocket.

The caution for me is that the dyneema is exposed to UV 24-365. And as it degrades it’s going to go suddenly. The rigging and life lines are given a 3-5 year life cycle. With inspection.

 

[MikeHoncho]

UV 24-365.

Ohhh fellow PNW'er.... your pretty funny this early in the morning lol. I have a handful of two sizes and of different lengths already tied up and two small coils of different diameters and fids on board. Once underway I'll tie them up as needed. I've had them installed for a year now. It will be interesting to see the changes over time.