Jabsco Electric Quiet Flush minor rebuild.....

[NYSail]

Hello all,
So the new to me boat came with two electric Jabsco Quiet Flush heads. This past weekend I noticed one had a leak down where the motor appears to attach to the base unit. Also noticed over past few months the joker valve wasn't doing its full job as a little "stuff" would come back into bowl after flushing...... not immediately but over time. Anyway rebuild kits are only $29 so figured buy and do the job (bought two for future).... motors run fine and figure I will replace with better units once they go. Anyway, just want to make sure I have all tools and have a heads up (no pun intended) on any tricky issues. No instructions come with this kit of basic washers and I am sure its just an easy replace procedure. I have a well stocked tool box and will be removing the entire toilet so I have no space restrictions.

Thanks as always
Greg
Souleil

 

[windward54]

Although not the greatest toilet on the market, the Quet Flush is easy to maintain and rebuild. And Jabsco has a good video library to help.

jabscotech.com

I’ve found on our units, once the macerator/pump starts to have issues, you end up replacing it. But I’ve gotten about 8 years or so on the pump before having to get a replacement.

 

[SEMPERAVANTI41]

I suggest you watch step by step instructions available from Jabsco on Youtube. I rebuilt one last February. On my boat a flexible shaft screwdriver came in handy to get to some of the screws.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

You'll prob'ly need to replace corroded screws that hold the two parts together...those aren't in the kit.

Also noticed over past few months the joker valve wasn't doing its full job as a little "stuff" would come back into bowl after flushing...... not immediately but over time

That can indicate a problem downstream of the toilet...mineral buildup in the hoses that's seriously reduced its diameter...a long uphill run from the toilet to the tank coupled with not flushing long enough to move bowl contents all the way to the tank (it should be clean water if you're flushing long enough)...or a blocked/partially blocked tank vent that's pressurizing it, creating back pressure.

My book (see link in my signature below) covers the symptoms, causes and cures for all of the above plus a lot more in detail.
--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

 

[NYSail]

Thanks.... just watched and pretty straight forward. A fun project indeed!

Greg

 

[NYSail]

Thanks Peggie.... I replaced all hoses end of last season including the vent hose.... but will check vent just to make sure no nice little critters made a home!

Greg

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Check the vent thru-hull especially--all of 'em, in fact-- 'cuz that's where dirt daubers love to build their mud "nests" in the spring.
--Peggie

 

[windward54]

And a couple of other items to watch:

When replacing the joker valve, have the discharge hose off and turn the toilet on its side. You can then look and see if the valve is closed. I have had brand new valves that didn’t close when installed. And inspect the discharge outlet. I’ve also over-tightened one which deformed the plastic and interfered with the valve.

Check the connections to the pump. I had spade connections on mine, and a little corrosion caused a voltage drop. The voltage drop kept the pump from running efficiently. As my holding tank on my boat is mounted in the closet and the pump has to push straight up, I need all the oomph I can get.

 

[NYSail]

Thanks all! Job went smooth...... lots of hair on impeller and shot gasket. Motor sounds much better and has more power. And no more leaks! But I can see where this was done before and things were over tightened...... gentle snugged is the way to go.

Greg
Souleil