The boom and the banging of face on desk - help me identify things please!

[tipsyravensailing]

Hey ya all! Trying to dial in the last of the things to buy for this mast rebuild before it goes back up. I'm waiting for the top tricolor and starting to look at other parts before allow myself to start the fiberglass phase.

I THINK i got most of these parts figured out, but, hey, check me. haha.

so first the downhaul

this is what i'm thinking its supposed to be based on the reading? there's a block at the base and on the goosneck both.There used to be a mildewy pos that was knotedand passed through the cleat. but it ws just a knotted mess on the deck. i THINK this is how its supposed to be rigged? maybe?

So... double check me here:

1. stripe showing the outhaul limit for the sail
2. outhaul cleat
3. outhaul block
4. outhaul block
5. topping lift point???
6. main sheet attachment point (name please?)

check blocks. jiffy? reefing? but i've not found a rigging diagram that shows 3... and not a diagram that shows two blocks so close together. second image shows where on the boom... these are creating a lot of frustration cause i'm unable to find any reason for them being here.

and the last photo:

located right at the boom vang attachment there's these 2 cleats and a rope thats permanently attached to the boom. I am GUESSING that the rope here is actually part of the jiffy? reefing. But them i'm left with whats the second cleat for? The outhaul has its own cleat out at the end of the boom afterall.

Thanks guys!

 

[dlochner]

so first the downhaul

this is what i'm thinking its supposed to be based on the reading? there's a block at the base and on the goosneck both.There used to be a mildewy pos that was knotedand passed through the cleat. but it ws just a knotted mess on the deck. i THINK this is how its supposed to be rigged? maybe?

More or less. Dead end the line at the SS bow on the boom. Down to the block and back to the cleat. This puts tension on the mainsail luff by pulling the gooseneck down. Another approach is a cunningham that accomplishes the same thing on a boat with fixed goose neck.

check blocks. jiffy? reefing? but i've not found a rigging diagram that shows 3... and not a diagram that shows two blocks so close together. second image shows where on the boom... these are creating a lot of frustration cause i'm unable to find any reason for them being here.

At least the 1st and 2nd jiffy or slab reefing blocks. The 3rd block is a mystery. Don't worry about it now. Sooner or later you'll figure it out.

and the last photo:

located right at the boom vang attachment there's these 2 cleats and a rope thats permanently attached to the boom. I am GUESSING that the rope here is actually part of the jiffy? reefing. But them i'm left with whats the second cleat for? The outhaul has its own cleat out at the end of the boom afterall.

Don't have a good idea about #2, although it probably has something to do with that 3rd block in the prior photo. #1 is the cleat for the 2nd reef, #3 is the cleat for the 1st reef or it is the other way around. Run the line and you'll see which one has the fairest lead.

 

[tipsyravensailing]

this boat DID have lazy jacks on it but i've never seen a lazy jack rigging that didn't use shock cordage at the boom end. what was left of the lazy jacks was blowing in the wind when i bought it

 

[DArcy]

For the downhaul, find a place to tie the line off to the boom, lead it down to the turning block on the mast, then up to the block under the boom, then to the cleat. That will get you a 3:1 purchase. The way you show it is only a 2:1 so you won't get as much tension on it.
I'd suggest the extra block on the side of the boom at the end (#3) is only going to complicate the outhall. Just go from the #4 block on top to the cleat - or even better lead it forward to a cleat near the gooseneck. It's not much fun trying to adjust the outhaul from the boom end. #5 is topping lift, #6 is main sheet attachment. Don't worry about the black stripe, the clew will end up wherever it ends up.
The cheek blocks are most likely for a couple of reef points. There are a lot of good diagrams showing jiffy reefing. I like the one below because it shows the angle of the lead from the turning block to the reef cringle in the leech. Ideally, both the turning block and dead end attachment should be just aft of the reef cringle when reefed. This gives you good downward force but also tensions the new foot of the sail. It drives me nuts to see a reef with the lines led to the end of the boom and the reef cringle a foot above the boom. You can use a strap to pull the cringle down to the boom but that seems like extra work.

Here's a neat view with the dead end looped under the boom to the fixed part of the block. You can just tie a loop around the boom if there isn't a good point to attach it. As long as one end is aft of the cringle you'll get good outhaul tension on the reef.

 

[justsomeguy]

Hmm. No one's mentioned "cunningham".

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Hmm. No one's mentioned "cunningham".

Sliding gooseneck- Cunningham un needed

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Also- the reefing lines on a previous boat

Other side

 

[tipsyravensailing]

OH! that makes so much more sense - the cheek blocks are reefing points 1 and 2. that actually helps immensely.

 

[justsomeguy]

Sliding gooseneck- Cunningham un needed

You'll still need to tension the luff now and then, no?

 

[dlochner]

Another approach is a cunningham that accomplishes the same thing on a boat with fixed goose neck.

Hmm. No one's mentioned "cunningham".

 

[dlochner]

You'll still need to tension the luff now and then, no?

The gooseneck on this mast is not fixed, it rides on a short track. The downhaul moves the gooseneck down thereby tensioning the luff. The procedure is to raise the mainsail and let the gooseneck move to the top of the track. Now bring the gooseneck down by pulling on the downhaul or by having someone sit on the boom and tensioning the downhaul and securing it.

 

[Joe]

A boom down haul is less efficient than a proper Cunningham. If the mainsail's foot is attached to the boom you will not have the isolation on the luff tension a Cunningham provides, and it may interfere with vang action.. So.... rig the Cunningham, and stabilize the sliding gooseneck with a track stop.
If you have room at your mainsail's clew... perhaps a small block attached there with the outhaul line reeved through it and the cheek block... forward to a captive vee cleat 3 or 4 feet towards the boom's center will make it more efficient and convenient to adjust.... i.e. the adjusting line will always be accessible from the cockpit.
In your picture, #4 block would disconnect and attach to the mainsail clew.