I've surfed that area. Good waves. The telephoto lens probably (maybe) makes the surfers look closer than they are.
I have some experience sailing into a harbor with breaking waves here in Santa Cruz. Let me share some thoughts:
First, these guys were nuts. Wait for high tide or if conditions are still unsafe DON'T GO OUT. It's that simple.
Second: If the harbor is closing out, DON'T GO IN! Wait outside for conditions to improve. Search around for the famous shot of the catamaran comming into a harbor in Australia.
. He made it, but it was pure luck. Is it really worth your life, and your boat? Find a nice spot to anchor or wait it out.
Third, If conditions allow, wait for the lull between sets. You give it a nice long time, get a feel for it. Then, when the lull comes in, get in Right Now. If a wave comes don't surf it. Slow down and let it pass.
OK, let's say you totally screwed up and are comming in with a breaking wave. Keep the boat headed dead down wave. Don't go at an angle. If you go at an angle you have a good chance of broaching, or being turned sideways. If you do, your are liable to do considerable damage. Go slow and let the wave pass the boat. Yes, you might get pooped, but if you have the cabin closed, you should be OK. As soon as the wave has passed you try to accelerate (use your engine) and get as much distance in as you can. If you are able, ride the back side of the wave where you will be in deaper water, for as long as you can. Yes, I have done this. I was a stupid guy. Actually. I've done it a couple of times over the years, because I'm really stupid - slow learner. It is not a good situation to get yourself into. One boat, I was 18 years old at the time, I ended up touching the bottom. Did a lot of damage to that boat. I'm not proud of that.
Don't come in a closed out harbor unless you are sure of the lull, or can wait for high tide, or are willing to risk your life.
The boat in the Ala Moana is going out. My Dad always told me "Don't go out in bad conditions". Best advice ever.