Specs for Replacement DPDT Switches in Panel?

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Tyler Rippel

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Aug 6, 2017
58
Pearson 31-2 Atwood Lake
I looked in the manual but can't find specifics for replacement requirements.

I have a couple switches that are broken and don't engage properly. My mast/steaming light switch isn't working properly, and while I have a float switch installed, my bilge pump switch is unlatching and doesn't seem to stay in place (or even have an auto stop/option from what I can tell). Either with the existing switch or with a new auto bilge pump with integrated float switch I'd like to get this replaced.

It looks like I already have different brands/varieties based on the style, but I need to know the power ratings or anything else I should be aware of for ordering replacement switches.

Thanks!
 
SG

SG

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Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
Tyler:
Please just take a picture of your your panel and post it. As JViss asks, are they (say) rocker switches or circuit breakers?

It would be useful to see if you can get a name off of the panel (either the front or back, after you open it).
 
T

Tyler Rippel

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Aug 6, 2017
58
Pearson 31-2 Atwood Lake
It is the toggle switches. My panel looks exactly like the DC panel from the h260 site here:

 
jviss

jviss

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Feb 5, 2004
7,090
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
O.K., when you said the bilge pump switch was unlatching, I thought it might be a faulty breaker. But, I guess it's a faulty switch, which I would imagine is much more rare.

Also, those are most likely mostly SPST switches, with a SPDT "ON-OFF-ON" for bilge pump "AUTO-OFF-MANUAL." I would just find good quality switches with screw terminals on back, crimp on ring terminals to the wires, and as an option, fit rubber boots to the front. Easier would be finding similar switches and sticking with what is most likely used behind the panel, slip-on spade terminals. But, I'm guessing as to what's there.

Switch reference.
http://www.littelfuse.com/technical...ehicle-technical-center/poles-and-throws.aspx
 
jviss

jviss

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Feb 5, 2004
7,090
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
Brian D said:
if the switch is connected to a 20A fuse or breaker, then a 20A switch is recommended
Click to expand
Good, but without knowing what margin the switch maker has in his maximum current specification, I would margin up to higher than 20A switch. I've had this kind of switch start to burn without blowing the fuse, in my old, original, 1984 Catalina 36 electrical panel (since replaced).
 
Brian D

Brian D

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Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
jviss said:
Good, but without knowing what margin the switch maker has in his maximum current specification, I would margin up to higher than 20A switch. I've had this kind of switch start to burn without blowing the fuse, in my old, original, 1984 Catalina 36 electrical panel (since replaced).
Click to expand
Point taken and I thought about it but neglected to mention it. Thanks
 
J

jeepbluetj

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Jan 18, 2016
782
Catalina 387 Dana Point
To me, the pic of the panel upthread sure looks like Cole-Hersee paddle handle toggle switches. Available everywhere, including West Marine, your local auto parts store, and the internet. Often rated at 25A, which may or may not be enough for what your load and fuse require.
 
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Tyler Rippel

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Aug 6, 2017
58
Pearson 31-2 Atwood Lake
Thanks. I found some replacements. I opened it up and there are 6 terminals on the mast/steaming light and bilge switch so I bought 6 pin SPDT switches. Hopefully those work out, I'll do my best to report back.
 
C

Crazy Dave Condon

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Jun 8, 2004
10,531
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Tyler;
When replacing switches, the amp will vary on that panel. I forgot the original maker of the breakers and switches for the panels so I did some checking for the Frog or Kermit H260. However, it appears Sierra now builds them. Instead of replacing the whole panel which is no longer available unless you want to make a bigger or smaller hole in the wall when the Kermit boat was fried, I took the panel off noting which breaker amp (on back of breaker which denotes the amp) it was and where it went on paper to make sure the new breaker went into the right hole.
You know us old farts have a tendenacy to forget like @Kermit. Also replaced the switches as well but you need to know which is on-off and on-off-on(mast steaming/anchor light). What you are looking for is under the Sierra name and that is the key here. See if the forum store has them and if not, then go to West Marine or other major supplier who sells them. Hope this helps

I will call soon. Yesterday was repairing fiberglass in a bathtub for a friend and then cleaning myself up for dinner at the Greenbrier Resort with an old friend who finally fessed up to putting an alarm into my ammo box called a shako that went off during parade formation. Never forgot that but now I know who and will think of a funny thing to get back at him.

Crazy Dave
 
J

JimInPB

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Aug 22, 2017
1,609
Hunter 26.5 West Palm Beach
Those look like standard ½” toggle switches. They are common as dirt. You can get them with plastic handles (as shown) or with metal handles (which I usually get). You can also get silicone rubber boots to go over the handles (which I always do). The boots can be added later. They just screw on, in place of (not on top of) the original nut that retains the switch.

The switches come in 1-pole, 2-pole, 3-pole, & in rare cases 4-pole versions. The spacing on that panel will fit 1 & 2 pole, maybe 3 pole, but probably not 4 pole.

Those switches come in single throw & double throw configurations. Single throw has only on & off positions (2 position switch). Double throw has 3 positions (on-off-on). Single throw has two connections on the back per pole. Double throw has 3 connections per pole.

Those switches come in momentary & maintained versions. The momentary version has a spring return to center (off) function. If you do not hold the switch in place on a momentary version, it shuts off by itself. The maintained version is just what it sounds like. It maintains the last position that you put it in.

Those switches come with tab (spade) connections on the back or screw connections on the back.

They come in various amp ratings. Often there is one amp rating for low voltage DC & another for 110 or 220vac.

The two big manufactures are Carling & Selecta. They sell to master distributors. Those guys sell to your local marine supply place. Companies like Sierra are not manufacturers. They brand label other people's switches & sell them to supply places.

Most bilge pump switches that are wired on-off-auto, will use a single pole, double throw, maintained switch. If you just want on & off, then a single pole single throw will do. Getting double throw will not hurt anything. You will just have an unused connection on the back of the switch if you use DPDT for simple on/off. Getting extra poles will not hurt anything either. You will just have more unused connections. An extra pole allows you to also wire an indicator light on a panel somewhere if you want to.

Let me know if you need any more details.

Jim
 
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J

JimInPB

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Aug 22, 2017
1,609
Hunter 26.5 West Palm Beach
Tyler Rippel said:
Thanks. I found some replacements. I opened it up and there are 6 terminals on the mast/steaming light and bilge switch so I bought 6 pin SPDT switches. Hopefully those work out, I'll do my best to report back.
Click to expand
6-pin would be DPDT. SPDT would be 3-pin.
 
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