Main traveler car & sheet set-up
- Thread starter SeanP
- Start date
Some sailors prefer traveler sheets cleated near center, the thinking is it makes releasing the leeward sheet easier while sitting on windward rail... should you want to pull the traveler to windward .... (have you compared it with factory set up?) I'm not a believer, though, because it's easier just to have a continuous traveler control line.. That doesn't cost a dime... but on midboom sheeting the loop of traveler line could get in the way.
However, your concern should be how YOU want it.... it's your boat to do as you please. It's not really going to change it's resale value... as long as it's functional... If you want to make changes to the cleat locations.. here are some options.
However, your concern should be how YOU want it.... it's your boat to do as you please. It's not really going to change it's resale value... as long as it's functional... If you want to make changes to the cleat locations.. here are some options.
Mine is a little different. Is that the factory traveler?
This is mine
I have replaced the line since this picture was taken. Now I need to replace the sheaves.
My PO put cam cleats on either side of the boat near the exit from the traveler's blocks. It originally had a continuous line, but it was long, and I kept tripping over it in the cockpit. so I split the line and cut off the excess.
Rather than replace the sheaves, I may switch to larger blocks on the car like yours. My traveler is stiff and sluggish.
This is mine
I have replaced the line since this picture was taken. Now I need to replace the sheaves.
My PO put cam cleats on either side of the boat near the exit from the traveler's blocks. It originally had a continuous line, but it was long, and I kept tripping over it in the cockpit. so I split the line and cut off the excess.
Rather than replace the sheaves, I may switch to larger blocks on the car like yours. My traveler is stiff and sluggish.
The setup is fundamentally sound. But the extra block looks like it is held in place with a single wood SCREW. Yikes.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,075
Sean
As Jackdaw states the concept works. a set of lines that control the car lead through blocks and cam cleats that allow you to control the position of the car is a standard traveler set up.
The PO screwed a couple of wood pieces together to let him put all of the traveler pieces together.
Your boat so you get to decide if you like the setup.
Questions...
I see only a single block on the traveler car for the mainsheet. Leads me to guess that you have a 2:1 mainsheet rigged to the traveler. Is that enough for you to control the Hunter 31 Main?
The traveler is an element of your Main Sail rig system. If it works great. If you have questions then look at the whole system before you rush to change one piece of it.
As Jackdaw states the concept works. a set of lines that control the car lead through blocks and cam cleats that allow you to control the position of the car is a standard traveler set up.
The PO screwed a couple of wood pieces together to let him put all of the traveler pieces together.
Your boat so you get to decide if you like the setup.
Questions...
I see only a single block on the traveler car for the mainsheet. Leads me to guess that you have a 2:1 mainsheet rigged to the traveler. Is that enough for you to control the Hunter 31 Main?
The traveler is an element of your Main Sail rig system. If it works great. If you have questions then look at the whole system before you rush to change one piece of it.
Mine has a single block with beckets on the car, and it is quite tough to move up when loaded under sail. I am thinking of adding doubles to the car, but don't know where I would connect the ends to since there is not a becket at blocks on the end of each track. Any suggestions?
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,075
Chip, Looking at the OP's image it is not clear if the MainSheet is a run through a single block or one with a becket. The OP's traveler looks to be a 3:1 system.
He has a "Snap Shackle" connecting the Mainsheet block to the traveler.
My guess he has never seen a snap shackle open on it's own while under strain in a 30knot breeze...
It is more like an explosion. In his case the mainsheet block will be attached to the boom and very well will be swinging with enough speed and force to be considered a "DEADLY WEAPON".
Or maybe it is just me thinking if the worse can happen Murphy will be there to be sure it does.
He has a "Snap Shackle" connecting the Mainsheet block to the traveler.
My guess he has never seen a snap shackle open on it's own while under strain in a 30knot breeze...
It is more like an explosion. In his case the mainsheet block will be attached to the boom and very well will be swinging with enough speed and force to be considered a "DEADLY WEAPON".
Or maybe it is just me thinking if the worse can happen Murphy will be there to be sure it does.
Yes, But mine is 2:1 I am looking to make it 3:1 by adding double blocks to the car, rather than just replacing the sheaves in the old blocks. but then I need some way to attach the new line ends so they terminate on the ends of the rail.
I am running a tripple swivel with cam and becket for my main sheet, and it no longer runs forward on the boom and back down through the deck organizer
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jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,075
Chip
This is where you need to shop the internet traveler systems and/or blocks to see if you can (without spending enormous sums of money) add more blocks to the car you have.
Here is an image of a $500 car with dual blocks.
http://www.apsltd.com/antal-size-110-traveler-car-w-2-sheaves.html
No idea if it would be sized for your boat. The dual blocks on the car and the end stops would bump up your traveler purchase.
I would be searching out the consignment shops for something I could alter to fit my needs.
My boat rig is "really old school". I have a track and two adjustable stops. I move the stop to the most likely location and lock it in then I tack. I'm not racing so the little bit of extra control I would get from a fully adjustable traveler is lost on my cruising mentality. I slack the mainsheet as needed not a traveler.
I keep an eye out for deals and if a traveler presented it self at a dirty price I guess I could be persuaded...
This is where you need to shop the internet traveler systems and/or blocks to see if you can (without spending enormous sums of money) add more blocks to the car you have.
Here is an image of a $500 car with dual blocks.
No idea if it would be sized for your boat. The dual blocks on the car and the end stops would bump up your traveler purchase.
I would be searching out the consignment shops for something I could alter to fit my needs.
My boat rig is "really old school". I have a track and two adjustable stops. I move the stop to the most likely location and lock it in then I tack. I'm not racing so the little bit of extra control I would get from a fully adjustable traveler is lost on my cruising mentality. I slack the mainsheet as needed not a traveler.
I keep an eye out for deals and if a traveler presented it self at a dirty price I guess I could be persuaded...
JMCE - I would be interested in seeing a couple of closeup pics of your setup, perhaps even one from inside the cockpit. From the looks of it you don't have to open the dodger window to adjust your traveller? Mine still has the original setup with the cam cleats at the ends of the traveller which means someone has to go out of the cockpit to adjust the traveller and I want a setup where I can adjust it from the cockpit without opening the dodger. Reg
Mine was set up to work from behind the dodger by having the cam cleat mounted on a wood block next to the halyard cleats. I no longer have a dodger so it is not an issue, and also allowed me to reroute the main sheet for easier use.
Is that factory??? Its incredibly dangerous to have leads to a camcleat come to them from a UPWARD angle.
Not factory. Installed by PO. Not really happy with their functionality. Suggestions?
You see that slot below the lower roller? That is where a plate was attached and the cam cleat goes there.
It needs to be on a riser to get it at least as high as the traveler. Or mount it back on the traveler end, like the factory did.
Third option would be to lead the traveler line to a turning block that provides the proper lead to the cam cleat. Given the ferocity of inadvertent traveler releases the only way I would use a cam cleat for that use would be to put it where it was designed to be - on the traveler end. And replace the traveler line with some slippery-cover braid.
Here is how mine was from the factory and when I could not find a replacement cam to fit the fixture (off the shelf cams were too tall to fit in the hole), I retrofitted it with the plate and cleat as shown. Took a little grinding to make the plate fit properly to avoid the sheave but works well. That cleat is a Ronstan RC 00423 (Cam Cleat and plate for use on their 32 mm T Tracks).
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