Challenges Keeping Batteries Up at Anchor

[Bill Roosa]

and welcome to cruising.
the low cost options are limited. things that move heat around are the first items to work on. using the engine to drive the reefer compressor and a holding plate, and extra insulation on the ice box.
another approch is to use multiple charging sources; wind, solar, hydro (works under sail only), and diesel.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Is dry ice dangerous in a boat cabin?

CO2 is heavier than air. Can it deprive crew of oxygen while sleeping?

 

[Johnb]

Is dry ice dangerous in a boat cabin?

CO2 is heavier than air. Can it deprive crew of oxygen while sleeping?

Good point - I put the cooler out in the cockpit during the night.
FWIW the other problem is it can really deep freeze stuff like fruit and vegetables, so we wrap it in newspaper inside the cooler, that also makes it last longer

 

[Kings Gambit]

I would start by using a fuel based heater versus electrical based heater. Some fuel based heaters can generate a lot of heat, but also fumes if not vented properly. That should save in your electrical budget if possible. Might be the admiral doesn't want fuel based heating.

I found a couple of relatively inexpensive ones. Might give 'em a try if the next situation calls for it.
Propane: Mr. Heater
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/
Alcohol: Origio HeatPal
http://waldenlabs.com/origo-heatpal-5100-alcohol-heater-review/

 

[Brian D]

Kings, I was thinking more in line with the "Flower Pot Heater" a DIY heater using candles as the fuel. I know, I know, there are a lot of reports out that that this does not work. But allot of those are from people trying to heat up a large space. I have not tried it, but I am sure it will work in confined space, such as a cabin. Maybe try and make one and see if that works for you. Then you can say yay or nay. I do remember reading that someone on a boat tried it and it worked.

Enjoy the rest of your sailing adventure.

 

[Rick D]

I have that Origo Heat Pal and it works well. You don't want to use it in an unventilated area however, so you need to leave a port cracked. One real advantage is that it is also a back up cooker. Took advantage of that once. Pretty compact too.

 

[Alan Gomes]

I found a couple of relatively inexpensive ones. Might give 'em a try if the next situation calls for it.
Propane: Mr. Heater
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/
Alcohol: Origio HeatPal
http://waldenlabs.com/origo-heatpal-5100-alcohol-heater-review/

No way would I use one of those Mr. Heaters down below on a boat.
Interestingly, there is a thread about them right now on the Ericson list. It's an older thread that was revived, so see the last 7 or so posts. http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?14506-Propane-Cabin-Heater-Question

 

[Kings Gambit]

Kings, I was thinking more in line with the "Flower Pot Heater" a DIY heater using candles as the fuel. I know, I know, there are a lot of reports out that that this does not work. But allot of those are from people trying to heat up a large space. I have not tried it, but I am sure it will work in confined space, such as a cabin. Maybe try and make one and see if that works for you. Then you can say yay or nay. I do remember reading that someone on a boat tried it and it worked.

Enjoy the rest of your sailing adventure.

To similar end, we do already carry and use a paraffin-fuel (Weems & Plath) lantern in the salon as an auxiliary source of heat; but it is designed to illuminate, rather than heat, the surroundings, so is not that effective in the latter. It being placed high, and vented through a cowl vent/Dorade box, most of the hot air leaves leaves the boat.

 

[Kings Gambit]

I have that Origo Heat Pal and it works well. You don't want to use it in an unventilated area however, so you need to leave a port cracked. One real advantage is that it is also a back up cooker. Took advantage of that once. Pretty compact too.

I'm sure using it as a stand-by water-boiler for coffee or tea is better than trying to boil water using the grill when one depletes the propane bottle unexpectedly early--oops, honey!

 

[Kings Gambit]

As Maine says you are lucky if you even see 1/2 of that OEM Hitachi alternator. Maybe 20-25 amps at the wrong voltage. And all the while you are running/wearing a very expensive and important auxiliary Diesel engine to pump out that meager juice. Best value would be a 150 Amp Balmar high-output alternator that fits your existing mount and an external regulator with temp sensors. I have a similar set up to your house electric and once I swapped the Hitachi out for a Balmar I find that I can keep the house in good charge with maybe 45 minutes a day of engine run time. That often just means 20 minutes to get the anchor up, and 20 minutes to motor sail to my course. Throw in 20 more minutes to set anchor while charging in bulk phase and I am good for the night. I have a genset but find I don't need to run it nearly as often as I used to.

So, I'm getting one of these; 6-Series, 12V, 150 amp; will add temp sensors and external multi-step regulator.

http://content.westmarine.com/documents/pdfs/Balmar6Series.pdf

 

[Hello Below]

So, I'm getting one of these; 6-Series, 12V, 150 amp; will add temp sensors and external multi-step regulator.

King, I think you will be very happy with your decision. I have been following this thread as I have a very similar set up as you: 4 x 6 VDC GC batteries rated (new) @ 464 Ahr, 170W Gioco flexible panel, hydronic Espar, fridge x 2, etc. Oh and Blue Jay baseball on Sirius daily. We use on avg 55 - 70+ Ahr/day. Two years ago, at MS recommendation, I installed a 100A Balmar w/MC614 and temp sensors x 3 and never looked back. A single pulley limited the Balmar otherwise a 120A or 150A would have been my choice. A typical stay at anchor for us is 2 - 4 days. So an hour or 2 of motoring entering and exiting anchorages gives us in the order of 50 - 100+ Ahr to the good. Depending on our schedule and if needed we will leave the diesel running for a half hour or so while we ensure the anchor is well set. All this to say I believe you have made a good choice without having to unrealistically reduce your power usage and the comforts of life that you and the Admiral enjoy.

 

[Donnybrook]

Put the rest in the miscellaneous category for now

Modern electronics use a lot more power that they did in the old days. Like your tunes? A good stereo draws 1-2.5 amps. Add 20ah. Like to keep your chart plotter on for anchor watch? Can draw over 1 amp. Add 24ah. LED anchor light? Even LEDs will draw 5ah overnight. Keep your VHF on 24/7. New ones with AIS, DSC, GPS and fancy screen can draw 1 amp or more. Add 24ah. Cabin lighting, charging cell phones and laptops, and inverter all add up. My point is you probably use a lot more juice that you think you do.

 

[Stu Jackson]

So, I'm getting one of these; 6-Series, 12V, 150 amp; will add temp sensors and external multi-step regulator.

http://content.westmarine.com/documents/pdfs/Balmar6Series.pdf

KG,

Have you done any online comparison shopping? WM may be the least favorable place to purchase electrical items. Good luck, good choice, too.

 

[dlochner]

So, I'm getting one of these; 6-Series, 12V, 150 amp; will add temp sensors and external multi-step regulator.

http://content.westmarine.com/documents/pdfs/Balmar6Series.pdf

Shop around for price. WM is not noted for being the most economical.

A bigger issue is the size the alternator and the belt that is needed to drive it. An alternator that large may require 2 v-belts or a serpentine belt.

 

[Maine Sail]

Shop around for price. WM is not noted for being the most economical.

A bigger issue is the size the alternator and the belt that is needed to drive it. An alternator that large may require 2 v-belts or a serpentine belt.

My pricing on a complete Balmar 150A 6-Series kit with temp sensors and MC-614H regulator is $1038.00 and WM is $1179.99. Consider this though, they buy at a much better price than I do....

 

[gettinthere]

Check with eng manufacturer to verify what is the largest alternator allowed for your engine.
My Perkins is limited to 100amps. I know someone who installed a 150 amp alt anyway and caused damage to the front end of the motor.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Shop around for price. WM is not noted for being the most economical.

A bigger issue is the size the alternator and the belt that is needed to drive it. An alternator that large may require 2 v-belts or a serpentine belt.

I'll get the best price I can, clearly. The West Marine link was a convenient one to show off the unit. I have noticed, however, that I will need to convert the Yanmar pulley system to serpentine to effectively use the 150 AMP unit. I'm not 100% sure yet that there's room for that on the front of the engine, but I believe that there is. The smaller charge unit (100 AMP) mentioned would offer a much more straightforward installation; but, I'm kinda of "sold" on the higher charge capacity of the 150 Amp.

 

[Kings Gambit]

My pricing on a complete Balmar 150A 6-Series kit with temp sensors and MC-614H regulator is $1038.00 and WM is $1179.99. Consider this though, they buy at a much better price than I do....

MS--thanks for posting your link here. I think yours is a good price.
KG

 

[Kings Gambit]

King, I think you will be very happy with your decision. I have been following this thread as I have a very similar set up as you: 4 x 6 VDC GC batteries rated (new) @ 464 Ahr, 170W Gioco flexible panel, hydronic Espar, fridge x 2, etc. Oh and Blue Jay baseball on Sirius daily. We use on avg 55 - 70+ Ahr/day. Two years ago, at MS recommendation, I installed a 100A Balmar w/MC614 and temp sensors x 3 and never looked back. A single pulley limited the Balmar otherwise a 120A or 150A would have been my choice. A typical stay at anchor for us is 2 - 4 days. So an hour or 2 of motoring entering and exiting anchorages gives us in the order of 50 - 100+ Ahr to the good. Depending on our schedule and if needed we will leave the diesel running for a half hour or so while we ensure the anchor is well set. All this to say I believe you have made a good choice without having to unrealistically reduce your power usage and the comforts of life that you and the Admiral enjoy.

Hey--thanks a lot for this!; it's nice to know when one is on the "right track."

 

[Hello Below]

The smaller charge unit (100 AMP) mentioned would offer a much more straightforward installation; but, I'm kinda of "sold" on the higher charge capacity of the 150 Amp.

MS recommends a higher output alternator (120+) so that your alternator will provide the maximum power that your batteries will accept without putting undue stress on the alternator. The larger the alternator the less heat generated for a given power output. I had to relocate the engine room intake hose directly above the Balmar to keep the regulator from regularly going into an overtemp condition. I have the belt manager set to 2 to reduce the alternator output by 14% and the Balmar will now output 70-80 amps for as long as my FLA batteries will accept it, at a temperature of about 90C. In my case, there was not enough space for a larger alternator even if there was room for the 2nd belt.