I'm wired- (H37C)

Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
It is time to begin the arduous task of wiring up everything on my H37C for extended cruising use.
Drifter has nothing- I even need to replace the breaker panel. Just some existing wires...

I keep thinking it would be nice to go DC only on Drifter... not planning to sit in a slip (can't afford it) and not worried about resale value either.

( I could add a small breaker for AC and and wire the duplex receptacle in the rear galley bulkhead)
Anyone ever do this or have thoughts about it?
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,160
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Big task. Read resources regarding DC electrical systems on a boat. A few suggestions:
The how starts with what functions are needed. Decide where you need electrical function. Identify the best route to run wires. And begin.
 
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Johnb

.
Jan 22, 2008
1,461
Hunter 37-cutter Richmond CA
It is time to begin the arduous task of wiring up everything on my H37C for extended cruising use.
Drifter has nothing- I even need to replace the breaker panel. Just some existing wires...

I keep thinking it would be nice to go DC only on Drifter... not planning to sit in a slip (can't afford it) and not worried about resale value either.

( I could add a small breaker for AC and and wire the duplex receptacle in the rear galley bulkhead)
Anyone ever do this or have thoughts about it?
The original panel had a 3 gang AC breaker that provided protection against "reverse polarity" (live and neutral interchanged) as well as over current protection. In addition new standards require ground fault protection on the incoming service. I would be reluctant to dispense with any protection, first because it reduces safety, and second because you could fall into the trap of not being able to get insurance without being able to pass an inspection and not being able to pass an inspection because your electrical system is lacking.

I don't know what you mean when you say your boat has nothing but just be aware that all components are still available for the original panel and it can be refurbished. I replaced all the AC breakers in mine and have now had 15 trouble free years of service from it. Before and after pictures attached.
 

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Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
The old panel was trashed- this was a hurricane boat- when I buy a new panel- I am thinking of removing all AC and going DC only.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,492
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Planning should be 50% of the project. Maybe more. Avoid huge disappointments, frustration and extra cost by laying out a good system before getting started.
You may still want AC for shore power if you dock overnight somewhere.
 
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Jun 8, 2004
1,065
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Hi Rick,
Good to hear an update about Drifter - you've been quiet for a while. As to wiring, quite a bit has been written here on the forum over the years, so try some searches. One bit of advice I have is to use the original wires where possible because it is a hard job fishing new wiring between the liner and the hull or deck. But upgrading the panel etc. is a good idea. You want reliability. As to AC wiring, I could do without it as I am on a mooring and seldom 'plugged-in' but I sure do like being able to switch on the invertor to use the blender, coffee grinder, portable drill, palm sander or whatever. I know you can buy a lot of DC appliances but most don't make the grade IMO. There is a lot of good information about boat wiring on the Blue Seas web site. And, as mentioned above, MaineSail is a great resource. Keep us updated on your progress!
 
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May 20, 2016
3,015
Catalina 36 MK1 94 Everett, WA
removing all AC and going DC only.
I would hate to go without an AC panel - not to mention AC outlets throughout the boat. Battery Chargers, Hot Water, outlets to charge battery devices (ie hand held vhf, vacuum, tools....), not stringing extension cords all over. I have about 8 AC circuit breakers.
 
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Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
Hi Jim, been sick again, but better now. I got the rudder in 2 summers ago and last summer replaced 13 feet of soft deck... time to turn inside this year... next year rigging and mast... slow and steady wins the race :)
Rick
 

Alctel

.
Dec 13, 2013
264
Hunter 36 Victoria
I ripped out and replaced 98% of the wiring on my 36. Doable, but a lot of legwork. Starting basically from scratch gives you a lot of cool options.

I ended up using a couple of blue seas panels

 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
You could begin by finding the wiring that works. Most importantly as Jim mentioned is the overhead wiring. You can use a cheap lawn tractor battery to test the overhead lighting. But cabin lighting is only one breaker. Then wiring to the mast, bilge pump, starter, VHF, etc. Start with a good picture of a working panel plus a good wiring diagram. My panel is not legible but you can see that I have thirteen working circuit breakers. The 12 volts comes from one #10 wire from the starter post to the panel. I show how I source the panel with two six volt batteries in the bilge. Complicated a little by having a Link 2000 which requires a shunt in the mix.
 

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May 20, 2016
3,015
Catalina 36 MK1 94 Everett, WA
Ed you have a clean install. Couple of changes I would make. 1) alternator should charge the house bank and not starting. 2). You should have a MRBF fuse ( ore equivalent ) on battery output
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
If I understand your point I do have that fuse(pic in the bilge). The little West Marine box is a combiner. Since the start battery is always up the charge always goes to the house. . . .I think.
 

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Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Rick asked about my house battery selection. The boat came with three Gels in 1998. In 2005 I replaced with four AGMs at a cost of $800. for around 360 amp-hours. When I rewired in 2012 those same four batteries were now $1000. So per Maine Sail I went with two six volt wet cells, $80. each at Sam's, and still got over 200 amp-hours. They fit perfectly in the bilge(pic before insulators and straps).
 

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Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
20170222_151433.jpg This is the back of my current fuse panel- there was a leak above it- been fixed professionally- I admit I am a glutton for abuse :)
I want to thank folks for their replies- I have been pouring over them for sure- and I have a good plan in place!
View attachment 133415
 
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Jul 7, 2004
8,492
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
This is the back of my current fuse panel- there was a leak above it- been fixed professionally- I admit I am a gluten for abuse :)
I want to thank folks for their replies- I have been pouring over them for sure- and I have a good plan in place!
Some day you will be "gluten" free :p
 
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Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
Before I buy my starting battery tomorrow- what about tie downs vs a case?
Is there any issue with top posts (if they exist in the marine world) and side posts--- truly don't know- this boat had no batteries on it when I got it...
Also, do most of you folks buy the wire and crimp on your own battery terminals?