VHF fixed radio

[Sway]

Having the radio switched to US or International shouldn't have any effect upon transmission or reception of Ch 16, for instance.

Do you have an external speaker or RAM mike attached to the radio? Glancing at the owners manual, I see the capability for both, and you have to program the radio within its screen menu under either "AF Selection" or "Ext Speaker" for either of those functions. More importantly, if you do not have an external speaker (which you should check to see if working using a 9v battery or similar) or a RAM mike, and you have the options within those two menu categories programmed for them, your radio will work, complete with the "transmit" light illuminating, but you won't hear anything because you've got the radio's internal speaker shut off. Stranger things have happened.

Similarly, make sure the radio is not in Intercom mode.

Perhaps the easiest way to check the antenna and coax wiring for it is to briefly borrow a known working radio, attach power and antenna leads, and see if you're then picking up weather broadcasts on the Wx channels. That won't tell you if it's the coax or, more likely, a coax connector, or the antenna, but it'll narrow down the problem.

 

[skipmesick]

Find a local Ham radio operator and ask for help.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I tried a coat hanger and got no better results.
I tracked the antenna cable and see that it is bad - see photo. The connection to the cable that goes up the mast is shot on both sides. I can lay a new cable to the bottom of the mast and will have to try to repair the cable end that goes up the mast. It is an odd cable. It is coax (I think) but seems less sheilded than what I'm used to seeing with my home cable hookup. Can I even repair this stuff? Any tips appreciated. The cable on the left is the one that goes up the mast


goes u

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

It is coax and no, you can't repair it. Even if you tried, the rest of it is probably trash too due to water which can wick up as well as down the cable. The connectors are the cheapest type as well. It's amazing any radio ever worked with that abortion.

You can buy good quality coax and proper connectors (PL 259s) on line. Make sure you get coax designated 'direct bury' as most others will quickly degrade in a marine environment.

 

[Bill Roosa]

well the guy that gave you that connection was not well versed in doing coax connectors. somewhere along the cable there will be a factory marking to tell you what you are working with. There are standard connector ends that can be attached to your old cable but you will want to get to clean cable which may be a problem on the mast side. Strip the insulation off till you get to clean shield mesh. Usually takes about an inch of clean shield to get the connector on. If you have never done this stuff before get a lesson on y-tube before you start. It is not hard but you have to know what you are getting into and have a pretty substantial soldering iron or propane torch. The torch can get you in trouble with melting insulation or setting other parts of the boat on fire so be careful and WORK FAST

 

[Ken Cross]

WHOA! STOP STOP STOP

The Midland SWR meter is for CB radio only. It is NOT for VHF. The frequency range of the Marine VHF is 156MHz to 162MHz. You will need a VHF SWR meter, or any meter that covers accurately up to 200MHz will do. Using a HF SWR meter will give false results.

Here is a potential SWR meter, but you might want to go a little more expensive. Your call.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Workman-104...778008?hash=item210bbbcd98:g:L8IAAOSwNsdXRz3-

I've used it on VHF and it works great. It compares well with name brand commercial gear at those frequencies. At least the one I have does.

Ken

 

[bawlmer]

Randall. That picture is just plain ugly. Before you begin that repair below you should check the connection at the top of the mast. It is probably as bad or worse. Also there are a lot of similar looking cables that require different sizes of connectors. As Don stated if the upstairs connector isn't sealed water will wick down the cable from the top and ruin the cable. I would invest in a HH (you should have one anyway) and enjoy what is left of the season and count on replacing the whole cable run from antenna to radio at some point this winter.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I bought a coax stripper and crimper tool and practiced with a coax from my home cable setup with an F compression connector and an RG-6 cable. I figured I'd run a new cable from the radio to the bottom of the mast in the bilge where the cable connects to the mast run cable. I now read what you forum experts are saying - that I should replace the entire run of the cable up the mast with a connector still at the bilge area. I guess I should be able to tape (or tie together with threads) the new cable to the old and pull it thru the mast once the mast is taken down. At the same time I could run a new wire for the anchor light that does not work. So, do I keep these tools or return them? Maybe its worth running the coax cable I have and testing to see if the radio works.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I bought a stripper and crimper for an RG-6 cable and F type connector. I practiced and it was very easy. You are suggesting none of that is helpful here?

 

[Gunni]

Keep the tool, you may need it. Your mast wiring likely resides inside a conduit that prevents pulling a pre-installed connector through.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

what I find online for VHF radio cable at Defender Marine is RG58 or RG213 or Anchor GTO 15 or RG8X. Geez, this is confusing. What advice do you have? I'll call West Marine product advisor next. Since my old cable is nearly 40 years old going by that type does not make sense. I have a new radio and hope I can still use my old antenna, and new cable.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Stop!

If, as others have mentioned, it is /was RG 6 coax, that's the worst choice. First, it is the wrong impedance. Next, the center conductor is the wrong diameter to make good contact with the center pin of the ubiquitous PL 259 connector required by most radios.

Don't buy coax at West Marine. It is over-priced, not of the best braid density and not rated for moisture impermeability. Note - I once worked for WM and have nothing against the company.

The best value quality cable is LMR type, either 240 or 400. Both are good quaility, low loss, not bulky or heavy and will 'mate' well with good quality connectors which must be soldered rather than crimped. I've seen way too many crimped coax connectors pinch the dialectic or short to the inner conductor to ever use one and that is assuming you can find a good quality crimp PL 259 connector which are hard to find.

 

[BigEasy]

Yikes!! throw that stuff in the dumpster. Get some good quality cable and and solder type connections. Solder the antenna connection and pull the unsoldered end of the cable down to the bottom end of the mast. You will have to decide if you want to add a disconnect coupling inside the cabin under the mast or just run the full length cable to the radio. If you don't do a coupling, just roll a few feet of cable and tuck it away so that you will have extra cable to "play with" in the event that you have to remove the mast in the future and have to cut the cable to effect the removal of the mast. If you aren't familiar with soldering the connectors, watch the videos on You Tube and pay attention to the details; otherwise, get someone who can solder the connectors to do it for you. Amphenol makes quality solder connectors and can be purchased on Ebay. May as well replace the antenna while you're at it and have an entirely new setup.

 

[Brian D]

Yeah, just so you know...

RG-6 and RG-59 are 75Ω cable and used for TV.
GTO-15 is not coax, although by appearance it looks like it. It is actually HV (15kV) wire.
F-Type connectors are for TV/VCR and used on RG-6/RG-59.

The LMR is good stuff. I would recommend LMR240 as it is lighter in weigh than the LMR400. RG-8x is about the same size and weight as the LMR240. RG-8 is a bigger cable and about the same size as LMR400.

As mentioned, PL-259 (recommend more expensive silver coated) is used for LMR and RG cables. The smaller cables -240 and -8x will use a spacer in the connector.

No need to call WM. There are enough people on this board who can help you. Just ask questions and we will lead you in the right direction.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

I see I can get the 240 or 400 from Amazon. neither states they are waterproof. Do I toss a coin or is one better than the other?

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

I see I can get the 240 or 400 from Amazon. neither states they are waterproof. Do I toss a coin or is one better than the other?

They both have a water resistant jacket. If you want waterproof, look for coax designated as 'direct bury'.

As Brian said, the 240 is smaller and has slightly lower loss but that is a trivial distinction.

 

[Bill Roosa]

As the casual observer can see at a glance.... ;-) ....VHF is 156MHz ish so focus on that vertical line. the attenuation is db/100 feet. a db is a weird beast but suffice it to say that 3 of them is a 50% lose in energy (in 100 feet in this case). clearly open wire (ladder line) is best but you really can't use it on a boat, hardline is next but really expensive and hard to work with. looks like the "best" is RG-17,17a,18, or 18a. Then our old friend RG-8
FWIW

 

[Brian D]

Bill's chart is a good reference, but a little hard to read. Universal Radio has a table located here. But to summarized the table, we have...
Worst to best - dB loss per 100ft - @150MHz
RG-58 6.1dB
RG-8x 4.7dB
LMR-240 3dB
RG-213 2.8dB
LMR-400 1.8dB

Now, before running off and ordering cable, determine how much you really need. For this example, say you need 50 feet of cable.

LMR-240 has 3dB loss at 100 ft. That is .03dB per foot of cable. Therefore, 50 feet of cable will have a loss of 1.5dB. (3dB / 100 = .03 * 50 = 1.5dB) This is not bad for a 25 watt radio.

One more thing. There is nothing in the rule books that say you are not allowed to mix and match. So, from the radio to where the cable will be joined at the mast, you can run LMR-400 to keep the loss down to a minimum. From the point on the deck, up the mast and to the antenna, you can run LMR-240. Again, keeping the loss to a minimal and weight down. Just a thought.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Just an observation about how significant the consideration of weight added to the mast from using RG 8 size cable really is-

Even on the OP's 28 ft. boat, when I visualize people using a crane to handle the mast stepping, I wonder what the added weight of cable is as a percentage of overall mast weight.

 

[Randall Schmidt]

Where have you found direct bury?