Rotted post in 1983 Oday 25 cabin
- Thread starter ddooher
- Start date
Thanks. Chainplates all appear dry, but will re-check penetrations below deck and use butyl.
If I replace the post, how do I bring it up from the space where it goes below in front of the bilge. Is it cemented down there.
If I replace the post, how do I bring it up from the space where it goes below in front of the bilge. Is it cemented down there.
I would start by ripping out the past repair all the way to the keel, to see what's hiding in there under the compression post. Once you get that cleaned up a new compression post should slide in, with a little pressure from a jack on the overhead. The mast should be down before attempting these repairs. I would replace both sides of the bulkhead. The boat must have sat around for awhile with 4" of water above the sole.
Had that exact problem- needed new post and bulkheads. Made a new post from an oak 2x4, it's about 1.25" x 3.25" . It fits into a socket in the trunk- chiseling out the wood isn't too much of a problem. Measure the length carefully- you want it to be tight between the trunk and salon roof. I had to tilt it in from the front and hammer a little. Used epoxy on the bottom 6" then varnish all over.
As for bulkheads, make sure those fit tightly- I went to 3/4" ply, but had to carefully fit the edges as the originals are 1/2" . This also changes all the dimensions of any wood attached to the bulkheads, as it will all be 1/4" off !
I used a floor jack on a wood panel to jack up the headliner to get the bulkheads in - 1/2'3/4" will help a a lot.
Used a LONG sawzall blade to cut the tabbing along the hull. make it very
easy.
As for bulkheads, make sure those fit tightly- I went to 3/4" ply, but had to carefully fit the edges as the originals are 1/2" . This also changes all the dimensions of any wood attached to the bulkheads, as it will all be 1/4" off !
I used a floor jack on a wood panel to jack up the headliner to get the bulkheads in - 1/2'3/4" will help a a lot.
Used a LONG sawzall blade to cut the tabbing along the hull. make it very
Thanks. Based on your pictures compared to mine, would I use the Sawzall on the front face of the bilge. How far down would I need to cut. I'm assuming this has to be done out of the water. How long did it take you to make the cutes, install the compression post.
NO, NO....no sawzall on the post socket. The base of the post is set in about 3.25-4 inches- they just slopped FG around it to hold it when they made it. I chiseled out the rotten wood. Note that the stern-side bottom corner may be slanted in slightly. I made the post to fit - a planer is really handy - and tipped it into the socket filled with just some thickened resin, hammering it up to a tight fit on the headliner. Note too that the port bulkhead fits into a rabbet on the leading edge. You might have to trim the FG around the slot a little.
The sawzall work is just to cut the bulkhead off the hull. You can slide the blade in at the top and just easily slice the tabbing by following the curve. Be careful taking the bulkheads out- they can be used for a pattern for tracing. (There are 6 sheets of 4x8 plywood in a 25! - rebuild the galley, bulkheads, and head space, and you will see!) How long all this takes depends on what tools you have, and how much care you take. I did epoxy on the bottom to seal the grain, then 8 coats of varnish - about a month total. I have a lot of tools though. I hope you have a bunny suit, face shield , respirator (a can filter one, not those useless fiber things, and ear muffs.
AND, while you are at it I would check the wood panel on the SB transom. Those are notorious for rotting out. Put a 125lb motor on there and you get oilcanning and hull damage. Check the king plank too. I had to replace both twice, on two 25s . THAT is a NASTY job. Let me know.......have pictures - mine is bomber now, but it's a J.O.B. --16 hours of grinding.
The sawzall work is just to cut the bulkhead off the hull. You can slide the blade in at the top and just easily slice the tabbing by following the curve. Be careful taking the bulkheads out- they can be used for a pattern for tracing. (There are 6 sheets of 4x8 plywood in a 25! - rebuild the galley, bulkheads, and head space, and you will see!) How long all this takes depends on what tools you have, and how much care you take. I did epoxy on the bottom to seal the grain, then 8 coats of varnish - about a month total. I have a lot of tools though. I hope you have a bunny suit, face shield , respirator (a can filter one, not those useless fiber things, and ear muffs.
AND, while you are at it I would check the wood panel on the SB transom. Those are notorious for rotting out. Put a 125lb motor on there and you get oilcanning and hull damage. Check the king plank too. I had to replace both twice, on two 25s . THAT is a NASTY job. Let me know.......have pictures - mine is bomber now, but it's a J.O.B. --16 hours of grinding.
As a former O'Day 25 owner and having to swap out the bulkheads on mine, and reading all the threads about people having to do the same, and now this one about a 27, and what some people have had to do to their O'Day's just to keep them sailing...... The question comes to mind.... Why? They are not a "Classic" design and they really do not sail all that well, I know from experience. The deign that allows so much water ingress so that you have to constantly maintain, replace the structural wood, and putting in all that sweat-equity and $$$ that you are never going to get back just does not make sense.
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Yeah, but if you take your time , do it right,you have a roomy, comfy, water tight boat that is a home on the water. Water ingress SB over the galley is a problem ...BUT, I've had one season on the water with NO leaks and a dry bilge.
Hello again- I just looked at the closeup of your post bottom- it seems that your post is about 1.5" further forward to the bow than mine. You also have a sealed undersole, to the bow - mine is open. Your bulkheads also seem to be NOT screwed to the FG ridge there at the bottom of the bulkhead. Not sure if that is the case.
To expand on the post bottom a little, i have about a 75 degree slant starting about 2" up on the stern side of the post- this allowed me to tip the post in, then hammer it solid in place. You might actually have to cut out a little of the socket visible there to get it in, like an inch or so, then re FG the socket top. Will take a bit of grinding, but it's not too bad.
To expand on the post bottom a little, i have about a 75 degree slant starting about 2" up on the stern side of the post- this allowed me to tip the post in, then hammer it solid in place. You might actually have to cut out a little of the socket visible there to get it in, like an inch or so, then re FG the socket top. Will take a bit of grinding, but it's not too bad.
