Wire sources?

[Justin_NSA]

I would have thought it was easier to find. I'm looking for marine grade, 22/3 wire. I'm rewiring my Forespar steaming/deck light and changing to LED bulbs. I probably need about 30-40' to wire all the way back to the control panel. A PO had the leads for both lights connected together. I'm also rewiring my anchor light and converting to LED but 22/2 is easier to find. Thanks.

 

[dlochner]

Try GenuineDealz.com or Waytexwire.com. Waytex will require you to buy more than you need, but the wire will be cheap enough to make it worthwhile. 16/3 or 18/3 may be easier to find.

 

[Terry Cox]

Saved a bundle by buying marine grade wire from our local Interstate battery dealer. They had to order it in because I needed several different color codes, but it only took a week. They sold it in 100' spools.

 

[woodster]

GenuineDealz.com is the better source

 

[jsalley]

Also check Pacer Group in FL. They manufacture marine wire and sell it by the foot or by the spool. Excellent prices, and they have virtually any wire or cable you could want or need. They used to be the OEM wire supplier for Catalina Yachts.

 

[Ron20324]

My 2 cents is 22 is too small. It will swing and vibrate. Go for minimum 16 on a boat.

 

[Stu Jackson]

My 2 cents is 22 is too small. It will swing and vibrate. Go for minimum 16 on a boat.

Very good advice.

 

[Maine Sail]

16GA would be the minimum to meet ABYC safety standards for a circuit such as running lights..

 

[Justin_NSA]

16GA would be the minimum to meet ABYC safety standards for a circuit such as running lights..

I don't mind, it's easier to find, but isn't 16ga overkill for an LED mast lamp? What I'm replacing isn't very heavy and it is driving incandescent and a halogen spot. Not saying this is correct.

 

[Maine Sail]

I don't mind, it's easier to find, but isn't 16ga overkill for an LED mast lamp? What I'm replacing isn't very heavy and it is driving incandescent and a halogen spot. Not saying this is correct.

Sure voltage drop wise 16 is over-kill for LED's but 16GA is not the minimum size for voltage drop reasons, it is for durability.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Sure voltage drop wise 16 is over-kill for LED's but 16GA is not the minimum size for voltage drop reasons, it is for durability.

Good enough reason for me. I'll get 16 for both fixtures from one of the sources mentioned. Thanks all !

My other issue with this project is the disconnect at the mast base. A PO, who knows which, had spade connectors for disconnecting the lighting wires when demasting. There's another cable from the wind indicator that goes thru the deck hole to a terminal block in the ceiling. So I still have to feed wires thru the hole and reseal when I step the mast. I'm really anxious about cutting the cable above deck to add a disconnect. These are tiny wires, about 6 - 8 of them, and I just feel like I would add to the likelihood of a failure and have to take the mast down to fix. It was really nice though when we demasted a Catalina right after mine and all he had to do was disconnect a plug. He didn't have instruments though.
What's the normal setup supposed to look like? My previous boat was a Macgregor 26S and it had a deck connector.

 

[jssailem]

Several ways to get wire thru the deck.

1. Plugs just outside mast that connect to fittings in the deck,
   
2. Wires run down inside mast thru pipes thru the deck,
   
3. wires caulked in with silicon to the deck that have quick connects or 4 wire trailer light connectors,

all have a potential to leak. You need to decide which may be right for your boat. Some are better suited for trailer boats others for in water larger boats.

I chose a system of internal mast wiring with a pipe and a water loop on on the wires. Electrical wiring attached to a block inside the boat on the compression post. To remove the mast I disconnect the wires and lead them up thru the pipe and off the boat. Only challenge is the VHF and Radar leads. They can be cut or removed on the mast and led down with a messenger line from the top of the mast. I do not plan to have to do that for at least 10 years.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Thanks John. Your 1st way is how my Mac was. Right now I have a combination of 2&3. I have a plastic 1" riser above the deck that the wires feed thru that is caulked. One would think that would be sufficient to keep water out. We had a storm come thru this summer where huge amounts of rainfall came down sideways. We saw a leak in the ceiling right under the mast. Some possibilities are; the riser isn't high enough and the sealant inside isn't working, the riser isn't sealed properly to the deck, or the bolts on the mast 'table' are leaking. I will check all of these. It would be nice if the riser was adequate and I didn't have to squirt sealant all around the inside of it. Then removing the mast wouldn't be as big a deal wiring-wise.

 

[jssailem]

Some possibilities are; the riser isn't high enough and the sealant inside isn't working, the riser isn't sealed properly to the deck, or the bolts on the mast 'table' are leaking.

Justin, Of this list my guess is

1. the riser may need sealing around the base. Remove all old caulk material, rough up the area, and reseal. I like 4200 for this type of job.
2. Only way to address the bolts is to remove the bolts and mast "tabernacle". Clean up the area. When you get it removed you may find the leak source. Repair the deck and the discovered damage. Follow MaineSail's re-bedding strategy. (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=1) or again use 4200.
3. Make sure that the wires have a drip loop that falls below the top of the riser pipe. water will get into the mast. It will find the wires and run down towards your cabin. You want it to drip off the wire and onto the deck. Then you just need to occasionally clean your weep holes on the mast base.

Water is an evil thing it can find ways into your boat that boggle the mind.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Thanks again John. I plan to do all 3. I have an unused roll of MS's butyl tape for the tabernacle. Will probably go with sealant on the riser and raise it another inch so a loop will work.

 

[jssailem]

Good plan. Let me know how it goes. If stuck let me know and I'll see if I have an answer that may work.

 

[jssailem]

Justin. Here area couple of images of my mast base, the risers and the hose attached to run the wire thru. The hose, wire are looped and stuffed up into the mast as it is set on the base.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Nice. So you don't need to seal up the top of that riser tube. I need to reseal and extend mine to look like that. And reseal the tabernacle while I can. I just hope the bolts come out cleanly and the embedded nutplates or whatever don't spin or get stuck.

 

[jssailem]

NO I did not seal the tops of the tubes.
If there is 6 in of water in the Mast, I want it to leak down the tube so I can know it is an issue and then clean the weep holes.

I sealed the bottom of the riser pipes where they go thru the mast base into the boat.

The bolts on a Hunter I understand are into an embedded aluminum plate in the deck. PB Blaster to penetrate the threads and prayer are the tools used.

Mine were thru bolted so we needed two people shooting at each other. "You ready. Ready... Bolt near the starboard bow... Your other Starboard!" old school but it worked.

 

[Terry Cox]

Saved a bundle by buying marine grade wire from our local Interstate battery dealer. They had to order it in because I needed several different color codes, but it only took a week. They sold it in 100' spools.

As I recall I paid about $7 for a 100' spool of 16 gauge marine grade wire from Interstate Batteries a few years ago. I needed several (around six I think) different color coded wires to install the Link 1000.