Removing strut....

[NYSail]

hello all......
So I have a slight weep from my strut. Very slight and see no reason to do now, however I think as part of my winter projects I would like to remove and rebed.... This is a 30 year old boat and with all the vibration and stress I am pretty impressed about its strength.
I figure no big deal as long as I remove, clean, rebed and mount in same spot...... Will realign while at it and maybe even change the cutless.
Anything I'm missing?
Thanks
Greg

 

[Allan12210]

I'm from the camp that doesn't think gluing the strut to the boat is a good idea. Firstly, if stuck on, it is a real bear to get off again if necessary. Second, you want the strut to align perfectly and it needs a good firm registration base to something just as hard at the strut (the hull). Putting sealant between the hull and the base of the strut results in a non stable mount (the sealant is flexible) and potential mis-alignment (the sealant creates a separation from the hull). The only thing that needs to be sealed is the penetration of the screws through the hull. I used Sikaflex 292 on the bolts of mine. This was after dry fitting the strut and double checking that the alignment was good. If it is not, then you can wrap the strut with Saran Wrap and apply epoxy to the hull. Push the strut into it to achieve proper alignment and let it cure. Since the strut is wrapped with Saran Wrap it won't stick. After the epoxy cures, re drill the holes using the strut as a template. Seal the holes as above.

 

[Allan12210]

Greg,

Here is the patented strut alignment tool if it is discovered that there is a problem (as I had). One jack from my truck, a block of wood and out of view is a step ladder. This held the strut in perfect alignment while the epoxy cured. Do this with a brand new Cutless bearing installed. Note the Saran Wrap extending from around the strut base. From then on the strut can be easily removed time after time and will always go back in the same position. Since it is the holes that leak, the strut is never bedded to the boat. Only the holes and screws are coated with Sikaflex. The screws are inserted leaving about an inch showing. The Sikaflex is put around them and they are pushed up into place. That way the ends are clean inside the boat. The washers and nuts inside keep the sealant in place while it cures. A helper keeps the screws from spinning while the nuts are tightened from inside. This photo was from 2000. Many haul outs since and still waiting for it to leak. Cutless bearing life has extended considerably over the as-delivered original installation.

Good luck.

 

[NYSail]

Very nice.... Thanks for the tip.

 

[rardiH36]

hello all......
Anything I'm missing?
Thanks
Greg

Greg:

Viewing that your boat is 30 years on, one item to possibly be prepared for is the actual condition of the strut.

At my last haul out, three years ago, replacing the cutlass bearing was high on the list. The boat yard had the dedicated tool, so I engaged them to do it. (Rational: 30 minutes x's the yard rate = the best choice!) But the yard guy, who had done this a zillion times before, couldn't press the bearing out of the ~33 year old strut because the strut's bronze had gone pink and brittle. Instead the strut went crack and split! A new strut had to be installed.

Immediately after the subsequent repair solution, I wrote up the experience for the Cherubini Hunter forum. And downloaded pictures. See post #10 of the below thread link.

Keep in mind that I am a DIY'er, not a journeyman boat yard mechanic. I consulted some with the boat yard staff, then went about it on my own. With this caveat revealed, some of the info still might have use for you -- even if your strut is still in good condition.

http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/pink-strut-blues-ideas-for-replacement.162817/&highlight=strut pink