Bleach into water system?

[rssmith2468]

I was told to add "some" bleach to "freshen up" the water system at the beginning of the year.

yes / no ?

If yes, how much?
a couple of drops?
a teaspoon/tablespoon?
an ounce?

-thanks for the input
-Ray (H290 w/ 40 gal fresh water)

 

[JohnVTX]

Yes. Google it

 

[Calif. Ted]

Scroll down in this thread for Peggie Hall's directions for treatment of freshwater tanks.
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/flushing-the-water-tanks.174022/#post-1233666

 

[timangiel]

Probably not a bad idea to periodically give it a disinfection. You could add bleach diluted at about a 10:1 ratio, run some through all taps and then let it dwell for a few hours. I would then flush it out, bleach could be corrosive over time.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

You don't just ADD bleach, you recommission the system using bleach according to these directions which conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles (which includes boats). The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated:

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Put a few gallons of water into the tank then add 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5-7% sodium hypochlorite solution ) per 50 gal water tank capacity.
2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines.
3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.
4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.
6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.
An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

(These instructions are included in the "Spring Recommissioning" chapter in my book...available from the sbo.com online store...see link at the bottom of the page)

 

[StargazerP303]

Peggie Hall, Your right on target.. Thank You for your detailed information here! My only wish here is that I wished people on here (SBO) would explain in more detail. I love the way they mostly make statements like... Just add bleach and flush out.. Its the how much? and the how long? and the what else that's left out.. LOL Thanks again Capt. Rob

 

[whatfiero]

City water has bleach or bromine in it

 

[Benny17441]

Its the how much? and the how long? and the what else that's left out.. LOL Thanks again Capt. Rob

I somewhat agree with you about the need for responses to be more detailed but in many occasions it is the question that drives the response. If you just ask for how much chlorine to add to a 40 gallon tank of water That may be all that you get as the responder may assume you know the flushing procedure and just need the details on the concentration of the flushing solution. Peggie here is a long time moderator and when she answers a question she usually addresses the larger reading audience. A good answer usually starts with a good question. Yes there are some here that do not know the answer but may know where to get it and may just provide the info they have to point you in the right direction. We also have a group that think it is easier to just ask a question and let someone else do the work of looking or providing the answer. The great majority are helpful people with tons of expertise that are well intentioned in helping other boater. Sometimes the answers provided are wrong and often you will find differing recommendations, it is the responsibility of the person asking to go through all the answers and evaluate them and choose those that seem the most relevant.

 

[StargazerP303]

I somewhat agree with you about the need for responses to be more detailed but in many occasions it is the question that drives the response. If you just ask for how much chlorine to add to a 40 gallon tank of water That may be all that you get as the responder may assume you know the flushing procedure and just need the details on the concentration of the flushing solution. Peggie here is a long time moderator and when she answers a question she usually addresses the larger reading audience. A good answer usually starts with a good question. Yes there are some here that do not know the answer but may know where to get it and may just provide the info they have to point you in the right direction. We also have a group that think it is easier to just ask a question and let someone else do the work of looking or providing the answer. The great majority are helpful people with tons of expertise that are well intentioned in helping other boater. Sometimes the answers provided are wrong and often you will find differing recommendations, it is the responsibility of the person asking to go through all the answers and evaluate them and choose those that seem the most relevant.

I SEE ... In short you mean you get what you pay for! Thanks Benny.

 

[justsomeguy]

I SEE ... In short you mean you get what you pay for! Thanks Benny.

Not to berate, but you must realize that 99.99% of all the questions posed on this site have been asked and answered numerous times in the past.
Strengthen your search skills using that little "quick search" box in the upper right area of every page, and you'll see.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Strengthen your search skills using that little "quick search" box

There's also an Advanced Search where you can do title, author, words, phrases and all sorts of neat stuff.

But one of the things this website has is an essential "How to Ask A Question" thread. I'll see if I can find it.

Anyway, the OP received his answer and others contributed.

I'd call that a success.

 

[justsomeguy]

I'd call that a success.

[shrugs shoulders] "Give a man a fish..."

 

[timangiel]

I love the way they mostly make statements like... Just add bleach and flush out..

No one even said that

 

[Jerry Clark H356 SV Persi]

I have used Peggy Hall's recommissioning since my boat was new in 2003. It works. The only thing I would add is that in 2013 I added a SafeH2O system with a 2 micron, 10 micron carbon filter and uv light just before my manifold and just after the water tank. We have used our water system on our boat for drinking, cooking showering, etc. and have had no problems. It takes some time to flush out the system, but I do it every spring and change out the filters and uv light annually at a cost of $53. Good water is of utmost priority to us.

 

[Solstice]

I have also used this procedure for Spring Commissioning over the years. However over the past few years most Bleach is being sold as concentrated (8.25%). Based on this I have used the following formula .13 x Size of tank in Gallons= OZ of Bleach to use.
I got this formula from a series of articles Thinwater wrote for PS and I believe is an ANSI standard. I am no expert, so if I have this wrong Peggy and/or Thinwater can set us straight.
P.S.--Be very careful not to purchase 'Splashless Regular Bleach' as it is NOT used for sanitizing. The packaging is very deceiving and I got duped with this one. Took a while to get the foamy detergent out of my tanks before I had to start over again! Buyer beware....

 

[CHARLIE STAGE]

Peggie Hall, Your right on target.. Thank You for your detailed information here! My only wish here is that I wished people on here (SBO) would explain in more detail. I love the way they mostly make statements like... Just add bleach and flush out.. Its the how much? and the how long? and the what else that's left out.. LOL Thanks again Capt. Rob

FORUM ALERT: I just checked a couple bottles of Bleach and Lo and Behold and Gol durn it, don't both of the bottles have a detailed chart on how to dilute for whatever reason. One caveat is there is none for a drinking water tank. Hmmm? Maybe it is questionable for that specific use. I guess you just need to follow directions and use a little math and pretend your cleaning a toilet bowl. Now ain't that sumpin!!!???

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I just checked a couple bottles of Bleach and Lo and Behold and Gol durn it, don't both of the bottles have a detailed chart on how to dilute for whatever reason. One caveat is there is none for a drinking water tank

That's because recommissioning the system isn't TREATING water in the tank with bleach (add to the tank and leave it there)....you're using it according the directions--I posted above to "decontaminate" the system--which requires the 1 quart/litre-50 gal tank capacity--only leaving the solution in the system for 3-24 hours and then thoroughly flushing it out. If you "follow the directions and then use a little math" to arrive at a weaker solution to leave in the tank, might as well not bother to do anything.
And btw...if you're using bleach to clean the toilet bowl, you're damaging the rubber parts in the pump and reducing the hose resistance to odor permeation.

 

[CHARLIE STAGE]

That's because recommissioning the system isn't TREATING water in the tank with bleach (add to the tank and leave it there)....you're using it according the directions--I posted above to "decontaminate" the system--which requires the 1 quart/litre-50 gal tank capacity--only leaving the solution in the system for 3-24 hours and then thoroughly flushing it out. If you "follow the directions and then use a little math" to arrive at a weaker solution to leave in the tank, might as well not bother to do anything

And btw...if you're using bleach to clean the toilet bowl, you're damaging the rubber parts in the pump and reducing the hose resistance to odor permeation.

I am only reading the directions on the bottle. The bottle gives no instructions for use in a water tank, but it does say for disinfecting use the toilet bowl solution. I think disinfect and decontaminate may be close. But apparently the manufacturer does not recommend it be used in drinking water.
If you are saying they are wrong then take issue with the maker.
As a matter of math, the equation you give would be 32oz of Bleach to 3gals. of water. or 1 part per 12 in solution. Since n average toilet bowl holds less than 1 gal of water and they require a mix of 3/4 of a cup to the bowl: 6oz. to lets say 2/3 of a gal.. That would be a 1 to 14 solution.
I would say the math is pretty close but you win.
So the bleach will not damage the rubber in the water pump for the sink and head system?
BTW the operative word is 'bowl' not the tank. There are no rubber parts there.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

As a matter of math, the equation you give would be 32oz of Bleach to 3gals. of water.

I don't know how you arrived at that 'cuz there is no complex equation in the instructions. Read #1 of the instructions again: 1. Put a few gallons of water into the tank then add 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5-7% sodium hypochlorite solution ) per 50 gal water tank capacity. It's the bleach that's a 5-7% solution of sodium hypochlorite.

But apparently the manufacturer does not recommend it be used in drinking water.

You don't use it IN drinking water... you flush all the bleach out of the system BEFORE filling the tanks with the water you're going to use.

So the bleach will not damage the rubber in the water pump for the sink and head system?

No, because it doesn't remain the system long enough to do any damage.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

We have two discussions about the same subject going on in two different forums--Catalina 30 and Ask a Hunter Owner...and it's creating confusion, at least for me! So I'm gonna ask Phil to move both of 'em to the Plumbing and sanitation forum where they belong.