Transmission
- Thread starter All U Get
- Start date
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5139.msg31528.html#msg31528
What engine and what transmission do you have?
That link comes from this one with even more discussion:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.msg41657.html#msg41657
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We purchased our boat in 2002 with a transmission that had engine oil in it. Wrong lubricate, manufacturer's plate says to use ATF. Last year I finally replaced the engine oil with ATF. The old oil looked clear even though we've put about 1,000 hours on the engine since taking possession. I used my vacuum pump to remove the oil.
The transmission is normally a clean enclosed space not subject to contamination or overheating. ATF or motor oil as long as it is clean, don't smell burnt and retains its color and consistency is perfectly good to use. I probably have not replaced the oil in the last 5-6 years although I check it every 2-3 months. On a new engine it is good to replace soon after break in to remove any metal shavings. It is good to check the fluid after any engine overheating.
Perkins 4.236 with the Borg Warner velvet drive. I found some literature aboard that says two or three quarts. Thanks for the link. Our Service Mgr. suggested every other oil change on the main engine we should do the tranny. ( I'm a little behind).
All U Get
Whether to use a drain pan or pump depends solely on if you can get a pan underneath the drain plug. On a lot of boats you just can't do it. I can, so I do. Draining is always better than pumping because it's harder to get it all out with a pump. Only downside is you have to pay attention to whatever gasket or seal is on the plug. That goes for the engine oil as well, although some engines don't even have drain plugs, they assume you couldn't get to it if there was one.
Change out my Kanzaki transmission oil with every engine oil change. Drop the vac extractor hose in the fill port and suck it out. Per Yanmar, I use Dextron ATF, it goes in light red and comes out a few months later decidedly darker. These are variants on the wet plate (cone) hydraulic clutch transmission, heavily loaded. You need to keep this oil fresh with a full complement of wear, seal and viscosity additives.
My Volvo Penta OEM oil cost $50/quart
.Part of my Sea Trails was a metal analysis of the Fluid which showed a bit of Aluminum higher than norm.
I had mine changed.
I still have a partial bottle and compare the new and the old on a white paper towel each season.
I have been told if it is "burnt" you can smell a difference too.
Jim...
I would change it at least annually. Cheap insurance. Most transmissions use under 1 l of oil. Even if use use the most exotic one, that is under $10 (half that in USD).
The biggest trouble is to extract all of it (most of it). It is hard to reach to the bottom of the transmission through the filling cap. The other issue is not to overfill.
I do it as part of fall decommissioning.
The biggest trouble is to extract all of it (most of it). It is hard to reach to the bottom of the transmission through the filling cap. The other issue is not to overfill.
I do it as part of fall decommissioning.
I change each season on my KH-18 Kanzaki. It is cheap insurance. I dont even want to know what a rebuild or replace would cost. I fear due to age that those options may not even be available. Ouch. BTW on the KH18 there is a filter/screen on back that needs cleaning as well. Not sure on yours.