h40.5 overhead salon window crack

[Rich Stidger]

I just discovered that my 1997 h40.5 has developed a crack in the large overhead window. This was not there 10 days ago. I am thinking that it will need to be replaced, but I would rather do that job at the end of the season rather than now.
So I am wondering what the best advice would be for me to do right now. Normally for metal that develops a crack I would drill a small hole at the ends of the crack to stop the crack from becoming longer. Does this apply here as well?
Is there any danger of using this as is for this season?

Also, if there is anyone who has replaced this window, where did you source the window, and how did you install? Any I would like to know how many zeros I will need to put on the check.

 

[kloudie1]

Drilling might work, Rich.. chamfer the top and bottom of the hole with a countersink.. The downside is that drilling works best on ductile materials; if ya lucky, you may have enough remaining ductile acrylic in the thickness to stop the crack from running more. Should not be a problem unless someone steps on it.

 

[dakno]

I saw a thread somewhere here where someone used glass suction cups on the outside, applied tension with a spare halyard, and used sharp putty knives to wiggle out. He said it was easy. Search around, the thread was on this site. Good luck

 

[Rick D]

Rich, I had a local guy replace all my fixed and opening ports about eight years ago. If I recall correctly the "windshield" was then about $500 excluding labor but including rent time for bending it in an oven. He sourced domestic cast acrylic slightly heavier than stock, smoked gray. Whole job was about $2700.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Whole job was about $2700.

Yikes! Rick, you just totaled my afternoon.

 

[Rick D]

Yikes! Rick, you just totaled my afternoon.

Dang! Hope you are still at on line. The $2700 was for ALL ports, opening and fixed. The $500 was for material cost for the windshield only. He did not charge me labor because he had inadvertently left it off the first estimate. So, I'd guess the cost then was $750. Today? Maybe not far off.

 

[Dan_Y]

Per kloudie1's post above, for a similar problem, a local plastics mfr told me to drill a stop crack hole and then fill it with an acrylic? cement. He sold me a small tube for a few bucks. Worked well until I replaced the portlight at the end of the season.