Hauling Anchor in Strong Conditions when Single-Handing

[Kings Gambit]

So, I've been considering purchase and installation of a wireless remote to be able to operate the anchor windlass from the helm station. I feel it might be essential gear while single-handing if the anchor has to be hauled up in strong conditions to get underway, but where the diesel is needed to bring the boat up short on the (chain) rode. Using an autopilot would not be feasible here b/c the boat would have to move to too fast to keep the bow from falling off the wind. Besides, it would likely be yawing badly at anchor throughout the entire scenario as well, etc. Opinions or case histories of the practicality of a wireless remote for the windlass? Which one works?

 

[Ken Cross]

I haven' tried it, but the remote on the windlass seems reasonable.
Another option (simpler and cheaper if you DIY) Parallel the windless switches with cockpit switches. Now you don't need to worry about where the remote went, batteries, and why it won't work today. This assumes the windlass is controlled through relays. Otherwise you would need to add them to get the switch current down to a reasonable level.
Ken

 

[Roland5048]

I've not seen wireless remotes, although I'm sure they exist, but a friend of mine has an up/down switch wired to his helm station. Works like a charm. Would probably be a lot cheaper, also.

 

[Stu Jackson]

KG, I don't have a windlass, but I do anchor out a lot and have to haul the anchor up. My trick has always been to assure that I only motor forward when the boat is into the wind. I do this mainly by checking the direction of the incoming waves. I motor forward about a boat length and then get up to the bow and haul until we start falling off, and then dog the chain to the chain stopper. Sometimes I have to do this a few times.

In your case, doing this with a wireless controller would work and then you could get up to the bow once the chain is vertical for the last bit.

 

[Terry Cox]

If conditions were that strong I might be inclined to stay put and wait for the back side of the weather system to ease. Where a situation arose that required a move, I brought the anchor to water surface and headed out, then stowed it in safer conditions. No want or need for a remote. Happy here with a foot switch in the anchor well where I can keep an eye on the equipment as I pay it in.

 

[Kings Gambit]

If conditions were that strong I might be inclined to stay put and wait for the back side of the weather system to ease. Where a situation arose that required a move, I brought the anchor to water surface and headed out, then stowed it in safer conditions. No want or need for a remote. Happy here with a foot switch in the anchor well where I can keep an eye on the equipment as I pay it in.

Normally, I'd agree-- but the anchor might be dragging toward a lee shore on a wind shift w/ an increase in speed as recently happened to a friend of mine while single-handing. At night of course--not pretty.

 

[SEMPERAVANTI41]

Installed "Anchor Remote Windlass Wireless Switch Boat Sail Trim Controller" purchased from Amazon. Easy to install, works great. Other remotes available on ebay, look for "winch remote control".

 

[Kings Gambit]

Installed "Anchor Remote Windlass Wireless Switch Boat Sail Trim Controller" purchased from Amazon. Easy to install, works great. Other remotes available on ebay, look for "winch remote control".

Yeah-- I saw that one earlier-- how long installed for you?

 

[SEMPERAVANTI41]

Installed remote January 2016, took about 1/2 hour to install. All wiring was easy to get to under hatch in forward sail locker.

 

[Chief RA]

Place a stainless ring with large float on rode, power up and loop around anchor position and let the float lift the anchor for you! Look on Amazon. I use it and it works fine with no windlass. Chief

 

[Bob J.]

Installed "Anchor Remote Windlass Wireless Switch Boat Sail Trim Controller" purchased from Amazon. Easy to install, works great. Other remotes available on ebay, look for "winch remote control".

There was a recent article in GOB that discussed doing the same thing.

 

[MrBill_FLL]

Place a stainless ring with large float on rode, power up and loop around anchor position and let the float lift the anchor for you! Look on Amazon. I use it and it works fine with no windlass. Chief

-might be tough in a confined river/channel, but I've used these on open fishermen (powerboats) -they work well. if you have room.

 

[Benny17441]

I do not believe in equipping the boat to cover less than 15% of eventualities. I have been in that situation where overnight the wind and seas kicked up to pin me anchored against a lee shore. Mind you the anchoring depth was under 20' and the 5' depth line was like 100 yards away. If I would have thought that I could not get out I would stayed at anchor until the conditions improved. I started and warmed up the engine. I kept the engine out of gear and went up front as I figured that by pulling on the anchor rode I would keep the boat's bow into the wind. It was not that hard to pull the rode up to where the boat was approximately over the anchor and now close to 200 yards from the 5' depth line. I knew that my test would come once the anchor released but I felt confident that I could haul it in for the last 25'-30' fast enough to get back in the cockpit in plenty of time. I easily made it and the prop and rudder bit right away for a timely escape. I had thought that if conditions were worse I could have placed the engine in forward gear at just a fast idle to gain some time while hauling the anchor in but did not deem it necessary and wanted to keep things simple. One thing I learned early on is that when you are in a hurry walk slow and take sure footed steps. I still do not have a windlass and don't believe I will ever get one. Well maybe when I get old enough. I have to add that once in the last 20 years under extreme condition I started to drag anchor towards shore and elected to start the engine and drag the anchor right back to sea. You have to keep your eyes on the anchor rode to make sure it does not get under the boat and wrap around the prop shaft. Doing it at night requires a having a torch lamp. It was also raining heavily that night around 3:00 AM so a nice jacket was also needed. It was a little tricky to slow and stop the boat to bring the anchor in while keeping the rode away. God bless the anchor alarm on a hand held GPS laying in the berth right next to my ear.

 

[Bob J.]

Place a stainless ring with large float on rode, power up and loop around anchor position and let the float lift the anchor for you! Look on Amazon. I use it and it works fine with no windlass. Chief

We used to do this all the time when tuna or shark fishing out on the ledge, had lots of room. In an anchorage, it would make nervous doing this. Too many things could go wrong.

 

[whatfiero]

300' 5/8 double brade anchor line extra set rollers along side furler pulleys ran anchor line to cockpit sometimes I attach to winch to pull out mud while comfortable behind wheel controlling motor

 

[Chief RA]

If in tight quarters just take up rode slack to reduce area needed to float/retrieve anchor. Its easy! Chief

 

[capta]

I feel the remote anchor windlass controls have the potential for disaster should something foul on the chain before the anchor itself, as in the pic below. Imagine how much damage we would have sustained had no one been forward to see this baby grind into the hull 50' before the anchor.
We rarely power up on our anchor as almost invariably we wrap it around a rock or ledge and create problems for ourselves when we do. We engage the windlass and put just enough force on the chain to let the weight of the chain pull the boat forward. As the boat begins to move forward, we keep the pressure on the chain, taking up the slack, but not pulling the boat forward with the windlass. We do NOT pull the boat forward with the windlass or allow it to load up, until we are directly above the anchor.
So far it has worked in winds up to about 30 knots, without a hitch.

 

[Terry Cox]

In the past when a strong blow arrives while at anchor, the boat becomes very noisy with all the clatter. Not much sleep between anchor checks, but I trust our anchoring system, however will always verify with a landmark check as happened a couple of weeks ago in Watmaugh Bay. No reason to move as long as other boats kept their distance. Not so with Alcyon, a large schooner. She decided to come over for a visit in the early morning.

If I have to move in a hurry, I will do as I said in my above article. Bring the anchor up to or above waterline level and head out. I can always stow the anchor when conditions improve. But as long as the anchor system holds, I will stay put until weather conditions improve.

 

[Chief RA]

Realize that only the ring need be made or bought for the float concept. A pair of fenders will do the float job so your not carrying anything extra except the ring. Chief

 

[Kings Gambit]

Thank you, everyone, for your comments. Interesting that the consensus is that one does not really need a windlass wireless remote to recover ground tackle in strong wind even while single-handing. Our routine recovery of anchor and rode is as others describe: power the windlass, coast some on the weight of the chain pulling the boat forward, repeat, etc., until the chain is vertical to the bottom, then power up to completion using the windlass. I can do this with or without the admiral at the wheel in light to moderate air, and even more. I suppose once the anchor is freed and up, even a bit, and there is urgency, I could (and have) quickly return to the helm station and drive the boat further away from shore to complete the recovery of the anchor. Of course, if the windlass failed for some reason then a wireless remote would not be useful at all. I don't know about Benny's "15% rule of eventuality" on equipping the boat. A better formula might be "magnitude of effect" even if rare or unlikely. If this item did fail, how deep the s--t would I be in? Sort it out that way--but of course, that would be all situational.