Adding flying cringle and reefing horns

RussC

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Sep 11, 2015
1,597
Merit 22- Oregon lakes
Being fairly new to larger boats I still tend to pick my sailing days, but one of these days one may pick me, so I'm hoping to be prepared for it by adding the ability to reef the main. I ordered the new Doyle main with 2 reef points. After a bit of study, I've picked a simple design and begun fabricating. durned if I'll spend $40.00 each for reefing horns, for example, so I bought a couple long 5/16" SS U bolts for ~ $7.00 and began cutting, bending, and welding. I sewed up flying cringles with SS D rings and webbing for the 2 reef points and came up with this:
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I'm still thinking about exactly how I want to do the other end of the boom, but the local weather girl says I should have a few days to work on it.
 
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Nov 8, 2007
1,562
Hunter 27_75-84 Sandusky Harbor Marina, Ohio
If the horns are quicker or easier, I'd spend the money for them in an instant! Timely reefing has a huge benefit in the Admiral's enjoyment of sailing as the wind picks up. (Mine, too, actually.)

Since reefing is mostly done in high winds on a bucking deck, simplicity, and ease are important!

We do reef at the dock if winds are above 20 knots as we set out. It's a lot easier there, and it's easy to shake out a reef under sail.
 
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Apr 19, 2012
1,043
O'Day Daysailor 17 Nevis MN
Having to anchor the D-rings on both sides may be problematic but give it a try. In fact, try it out on a nice day first. I almost always leave the dock reefed because I never know what it's like outside the harbor. Like David said, "it's easy to shake out a reef."
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,131
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Most sailmakers will include the flying cringle at no charge. Mine did automatically. You only need to attach one ring to a single horn. The purpose of the strap is eliminate the need to remove the slugs. On a bolt rope mainsail the sail will easily slip in and out of the gate. Not so with the slugs... so you have bunched up folds that make it extremely difficult to get the cringle down to the hook.
If you mount the horn on the mainsail tack pin.. you only need one horn also. You have your hook so low that the flying cringle will still not get over the folds. You might simply relocate the hook on the tack pin. Again you only need to hook one side... or if you want to use two... one side for the first reef, the other for the second... but honestly they will both fit on one reef horn.
You must remember that removing the reef should be also be quick and easy... which means you want to do every thing from the same side. So... if your first and second clew lines are on the same side of the boom, then you only need one horn. If you have the first on one side and the second on the other then you would need a horn on both sides so you can tie in or shake out the reef from one side of the mast.... lots easier that way.

I wouldn't pay $40 either... but, I found this cheapo for around $7.00

 
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RussC

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Sep 11, 2015
1,597
Merit 22- Oregon lakes
Thanks for the input. experience is the best teacher, and I've yet to experience high winds with this boat, so not sure what will work best for me yet.
I do expect to only use one hook at a time, but figured as long as I was doing it that having the option would make it easier depending on which side of the mast I was on or how the sail wanted to fold that day. I see your point about my low placement of the hook. I guess there there were several reasons for my placement at the time (many of which may be incorrect ;) ) (1) be out of the way of the mast gate when putting the sail up/down each day (I trailer sail). (2) being in a fixed position, rather than swinging on the single tack pin, would keep it clear of moving parts when sailing. (3) I mostly trailer sail and use a quick pin at the tack for quick setup, which wouldn't be suitable for the traditional horn (where the heck did you find that for only $7.00 BTW? I thought I checked around pretty good).
I guess if I find that it's hard to get the sail flaked in the space I allowed it would be easier to make the flying cringle straps longer, rather than having to make taller horns…….. It is a work in progress, so we'll see how it goes. I really do appreciate the insight from everyone. I do plan to test things out on a lighter day so I'll have some idea of how things work when I really need it. today it's forcast for low 80s but very gusty ~20 winds. then back to "scattered showers" and rain for the next week. I guess spring is over here again for a wile ;( .
 
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Apr 19, 2012
1,043
O'Day Daysailor 17 Nevis MN
If you can park your trailer into the wind now might be a good day to try it out on land before you have to do it on the water. ;)
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
RussC, I always heave-to to reef. That's something you can practice too!
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
Concernedthe flying cringle D-rings are going to give poor performance. Reef lines take quite the load and unless those are welded on the flat part of the "D" they WILL part under the loads in high winds
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Concernedthe flying cringle D-rings are going to give poor performance. Reef lines take quite the load and unless those are welded on the flat part of the "D" they WILL part under the loads in high winds
Oh, yeah, look at that. Bill's got it right. I've only ever seen a short length of webbing sewn well, with 2 welded SS rings. As previously pointed out, only 1 ring goes on a hook. My boat has the hook on the starboard side of the gooseneck, which is where the main halyard cleats, and the leech reef line runs forward on the boom on the starboard side. And when I'm hove-to, I do it on starboard tack, so I'm still the stand-on vessel, if anyone should ever notice. If your leech reef line cleats anywhere near the end of the boom, lead it forward. I have seen while helping someone rig the reefing lines, that the West Wight Potter 19 has the cleats out towards the end. When I reef, I'm at the mast, lowering the halyard, hooking the reef line, and then I can just turn and I have the leech line and cleat right to hand about 18" behind the gooseneck. Takes me just minutes, then I can sail off on starboard tack. Unless I decide to mess around with the cringles tying up the extra sail. Most people don't tie up the first reef, but my sail is a deep single reef, deep than a typical 1st reef, and I have no second reef. If it's windier than 1 reef, I drop the jib and limp home under single reefed main. If it's windier than that, I'm running scared under power. :D
 

RussC

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Sep 11, 2015
1,597
Merit 22- Oregon lakes
Concernedthe flying cringle D-rings are going to give poor performance. Reef lines take quite the load and unless those are welded on the flat part of the "D" they WILL part under the loads in high winds
The SS D rings were't welded when I bought them, but they were soon after I got home. ;)
Concerning the strap sewing, I've sewed many a hang loop and harness strap for hang gliding equipment, which I repeatedly bet my life on, hanging 10K+ feet above the ground, so a cringle strap doesn't really worry me to much. :)
 
May 16, 2011
555
Macgregor V-25 Charlton, MA- Trailer
I love the connecting pin!! I need to do one of those.