Planning Sea Hood removal on Hunter 40.5

[smokey73]

I've been reading a bit on removing the Sea Hood on my 1994 40.5.
Has anyone with a 40.5 removed their Sea Hood? I accidentally pulled my #1 Reefing line out from under the sea hood when my mast was reinstalled (they hooked the block at the second reef point and I didn't have the line knotted to prevent it from pulling out - oops). I also just installed a spinnaker haylard and want to run it to the cockpit.

Hearing all the horror stories I was wondering if all of the sea hoods are bedded in 5200 or similar? I sure hope not! Also, I'm not seeing "60 screws" like I hear people talking about, seems like only a handful?

Helpful tips as well as do's and don't would be appreciated before I tackle this job later this spring.

 

[Rich Stidger]

The sea hood to which I think you are referring is the cover that is over the organizers. I suspect that on you 1994 the hood is just one piece that extends under the traveler. Mine on the 1997 is two pieces so I can access the organizers without removing the traveler. Someone else will need to tell you the easiest procedure to remove the one piece. However, after you get it out I would cut it to make two pieces and seal the edges so that the next time it will be easy to just remove about 8 screws.

 

[smokey73]

The sea hood to which I think you are referring is the cover that is over the organizers. I suspect that on you 1994 the hood is just one piece that extends under the traveler. Mine on the 1997 is two pieces so I can access the organizers without removing the traveler. Someone else will need to tell you the easiest procedure to remove the one piece. However, after you get it out I would cut it to make two pieces and seal the edges so that the next time it will be easy to just remove about 8 screws.

Thanks Rich. It is one piece so I'll have to remove the traveller to get the sea hood off. It is the deck organizers I'm looking at getting access to. I hadn't thought about cutting it. I'll see how big a job that will be? I'm going for a sail this afternoon to tune my rigging so I'll check and see how many screws there are. I was hoping someone would be able to tell me if it is put down with 5200 (the devil's glue). That will make the job a lot harder if it is. Guess I won't know for sure until I get into it but I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Dan

 

[Rich Stidger]

Someone also on this board cut their sea hood. I can't remember who it was but hopefully they will chime in.

 

[Bill Roosa]

That would be me Rich
After trying to remove the traveler (did not get even one bolt out BTW) I decided to do what Hunter did and make the sea hood into two parts. i cut it forward of the solar panel indent about 6" behind where it starts to neck down to the overhead port light. I cut it with a standard circular saw being careful to not set it too deep. Made a light cut about 6" long that did not go through the sea hood then deepened it till it just cut through. Be sure to use some sort of streaght edge to guide the saw so your cut does not look like your cousin Darel did the work. DO NOT try and cut the ends with a power saw. there is a lip and complicated shaped fiberglass at the ends of the cut. I used a hacksaw (blind type with blade sticking out of the handle not the standard saw holder) to remove most of the ends of the cut beind careful to not cut into the deck proper. Finished it off with a SHARP THIN chisel. After you cut and remove the forward section you will have access to both deck organizers and the center double decker one also. Mine where EXTREMELY dirty and packed with 20+ years of gunk. Inspect the sheaves as I found that the halyard sheave on the starboard aft deckorganizer had a flat spot on it and was just acting as a plastic slider and not actually turning. The owners manual has the manufacturer's name and the internet can give you the phone number to order new parts. The hood was not sealed down but the screw holes do have to have some sort (I used polysulfide) sealant during the reinstall. BTW this fixed the long term leak that I had . You will want to epoxy the cut edges so water does not gain access to the wood core. Make sure that the added epoxy does not interfer with the reinstal by pushing the free portion of the hood forwrd. That will break free the heverhead port light (don't ask).

 

[smokey73]

Bill, You wouldn't happen to have a few pictures would you? Even a completed picture that shows exactly where the cut is? I think I understand your instructions on cutting. Sounds like a good idea - take it slowly and carefully. I take it from your discription that this was done in place rather than removing it and then cutting it. The traveller looks like a PITA to get off.

 

[Bill Roosa]

Yes I cut it apart while it was in place. Don't have any pictures, more of a place to take pictures from not of.

 

[Doug4bass]

Im not too sure on how similar they are, but my C-270 had a seahood. I used two 3/16"
wood dowels taped together to fish the lines through. I did this every year, much easier than
messengers.Imho.

 

[smokey73]

Yes I cut it apart while it was in place. Don't have any pictures, more of a place to take pictures from not of.

Bill, Looking at the Hunters with the "2 piece sea hood" it looks like the cut is right in front of the traveller.
Based on what you have seen in removing yours maybe you could give some perspective for me. If I cut it there it would be just behind the solar panel instead of in front of it? That way I might be able to use the traveller as a "straight edge" for the cut? Then again there might be a good reason not to cut it there. Is there a "downside" to making the cut there? When you selected your place to cut was there a particular reason for your location? I think you said that all the rollers and sheeves were accessable when you removed the portion of the sea hood that you cut. Is that correct. Just wanted to confirm. How did you clean the area under the portion of the sea hood that you did not remove? I know its a lot of questions but I'm just trying to get a good head start from your experience

I'll have to figure out how to attach something straight so as not have a "cousin Daryl" looking cut. I'll figure something out I'm sure.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Dan- Perhaps pictures of my 1997 h405. will help you. at least you will see where the factory made the cuts. The unanswered question is if the factory changed anything else other than just cut and make two pieces.

 

[smokey73]

Thanks Rich - You and Bill have been very helpful. The pictues really help alot. I have as good a head start as anyone has a right to expect. Thanks again.
Dan