Solent Stay

weinie

.
Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
That's what I was concerned with about the dyneema. Maybe a thimble on the stay with a shackle connecting it to the ring on the mast? I'll talk to my sailmaker and see what he suggests.
That Pogo is one hell of a nice boat....maybe my next one ?!?!?!:rolleyes: Or the sunfast 3600 or maybe the new j11s or maybe a class 40 or maybe.......
shit...I'm gonna need a second job.:doh:
 
Last edited:

weinie

.
Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
Good point about the hayard twisting. I should try doubling up. My furler fights back hard when I try to furl my asym under any little bit of load even with the tension cranked up. (Damn, where was the westmarine rope sale when I needed it).
 
Last edited:
Jan 10, 2016
127
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Now I have another question,

I have read that a problem with having an inner stay, (unless it gets detached and moved back to the mast) is that it makes tacking a pain to get the head sail around past the inner stay.

What I'm wondering, and here's where I show my inexperience, if the head sail is on a roller furler why not just furl the sail and then unfurl it on the other side? (Or is that the way it is done?)
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Now I have another question,

I have read that a problem with having an inner stay, (unless it gets detached and moved back to the mast) is that it makes tacking a pain to get the head sail around past the inner stay.

What I'm wondering, and here's where I show my inexperience, if the head sail is on a roller furler why not just furl the sail and then unfurl it on the other side? (Or is that the way it is done?)
Well it CAN be a pain, and the degree that it is is a function of how big your headsail is, and how close the stays are together.

The bigger your sail and the closer together the bigger the pain. On the Pogo (110% and 5 foot gap) normally if you are careful while easing the sheet and pausing the tack while about 70% through the turn the sail will be fine.

Or not. So on the Pogo we take the inner stay off in light airs or during races.

Furling is SLOW and makes tacking harder. The headsail drives the boat through the tack. But its an option for sure. Experiment!
 
Jan 10, 2016
127
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Thanks Jackdaw, I can see how you wouldn't want to do that if the stays are close and your racing but on my little boat just bee boppin along single handed it may work ok with practice like you say.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Thanks Jackdaw, I can see how you wouldn't want to do that if the stays are close and your racing but on my little boat just bee boppin along single handed it may work ok with practice like you say.
For sure. The best thing to do is try it after everything is set up, and experiment. The right answer is what works best for you.
 
Jan 10, 2016
127
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Well now this is embarrassing...

After many discussions with various people I was told several times too bad the sail does not have a rope sewn into the luff to eliminate the need for a separate stay. I feel like an idiot for not looking at the sail again but just going from memory of a cursory inspection weeks ago and, well, the picture shows the rope sewn in.
jib2.jpg
So, I have to rethink my whole plan. I suppose all I need is a block above with a halyard and a pad eye below and then a tensioning rig like Jackdaw illustrated. If so, should I use Dyneema for the halyard or will regular rope do?
Also, should I remove the crusty old hanks?
 
Last edited:
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Well now this is embarrassing...

After many discussions with various people I was told several times too bad the sail does not have a rope sewn into the luff to eliminate the need for a separate stay. I feel like an idiot for not looking at the sail again but just going from memory of a cursory inspection weeks ago and, well, the picture shows the rope sewn in.
View attachment 119650
So, I have to rethink my whole plan. I suppose all I need is a block above with a halyard and a pad eye below and then a tensioning rig like Jackdaw illustrated. If so, should I use Dyneema for the halyard or will regular rope do?
Jim,
That's a regular bolt rope, there to support the luff and the snaps when attached to the stay. You need a stay with that sail.

A integrated stay will be wire or dyneema, and be attached structurally to the eyes.
 
Jan 10, 2016
127
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
But wait, there's more...

The lady that gave me this boat said there was another sail that she would get to me. Today I got 2 more sails as well as a pile of other stuff I won't have to buy now and the best part, take a look at the jib...
jib3.jpg
So, Jackdaw this sail is smaller than the other jib I planned to use giving me plenty of room to tension it down at the tack and it seems the hot setup is those two low friction rings. I've only just learned of these things, how do I select one and work it? Ring size, rope size? Looks like I'll need 2 rings, 1 small and one larger, and for the halyard, 1/4" Dyneema? Single braid, double braid?
 
Last edited:
Jan 10, 2016
127
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Well I answered for myself the last set of questions I had but I do have 1 more. I hope Jackdaw is still out there.

With the Genoa furled, the Genoa sheets are hanging from the Clew and out over the lifelines and outside the stays and it would seems they would be in the way of the jib flying on the inner stay and it occurred to me how do I hold them out of the way? BUT, then I had a thought. Can someone tell me if I'm right?

If I'm flying a jib rather than the Genoa it suggests that I'm going up wind with a strong wind so there fore I would most likely have the jib sheeted tight and rather flat in which case it would be well inside the area where the Genoa sheets are. Is this right?
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
But wait, there's more...

The lady that gave me this boat said there was another sail that she would get to me. Today I got 2 more sails as well as a pile of other stuff I won't have to buy now and the best part, take a look at the jib...
View attachment 119677
So, Jackdaw this sail is smaller than the other jib I planned to use giving me plenty of room to tension it down at the tack and it seems the hot setup is those two low friction rings. I've only just learned of these things, how do I select one and work it? Ring size, rope size? Looks like I'll need 2 rings, 1 small and one larger, and for the halyard, 1/4" Dyneema? Single braid, double braid?
Well that sail sure looks like it has a wire luff. And as you can see, the eye is structurally attached to the luff wire. For your boat a Vectran blend halyard will be great. New England VPC is perfect.
 
Jan 10, 2016
127
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Thanks Jackdaw, one day if I know a fraction of what you know I'm gonna be a pretty good sailor.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Well I answered for myself the last set of questions I had but I do have 1 more. I hope Jackdaw is still out there.

With the Genoa furled, the Genoa sheets are hanging from the Clew and out over the lifelines and outside the stays and it would seems they would be in the way of the jib flying on the inner stay and it occurred to me how do I hold them out of the way? BUT, then I had a thought. Can someone tell me if I'm right?

If I'm flying a jib rather than the Genoa it suggests that I'm going up wind with a strong wind so there fore I would most likely have the jib sheeted tight and rather flat in which case it would be well inside the area where the Genoa sheets are. Is this right?
Point one is true in theory but not so much in practice. When sailing on the wind the sail is trimmed very close to the centerline of the boat.

I just read your point two and you answered your own question!