anyone ever try this?

JohnVTX · Jan 10, 2016

You already had issues, why continue with the possiblity of more greif?

Anonymous 121765 · Jan 10, 2016

Bo,

Just say NO man. There are different compositions of hose material depending on use & longevity.

A few boaters that I come across create bigger problems for themselves, for they look at price first rather than logic.
Most sorry & dissatisfied boat owners I come across make decisions based first on price or what they think is an easy way........WRONG!

You wanna take a shortcut, you may end up having to pay a PRICE on the backside! There are very few successful "shortcuts" on a boat, it's what is the correct approach & $$ should come in second.
There is a right-way & doing it once OR, It's your decision man, it may cost you your time & more money to fix your mistake in judgment..............

CR

JohnVTX · Jan 10, 2016

Is the hose any color except black? If so it confuses anyone in the future who is trying to determine if the are looking at a fresh water line or waste lines.

JohnVTX · Jan 10, 2016

Boatgeek said:
wandering around lowes hardware store I found some serious heavyduty hose being sold as hot tub hose. "Note to self, it is Hot Tub Hose"
has the 1 1/2 id I need
so besides the purists and what a boat surveyor would say, would it work for sanitation lines? "NO"
I figure at the reduced price .. nearly a third of cost..of my original permiated stinky line.. I cant go wrong... any thoughts. if a boater can't look at his system or anyone else's for that matter and determine which us fresh or which is waste he has no business on a boat "You need to get off your boat"

centerline · Jan 10, 2016

that type of line can NOT be used for sanitation lines... cockpit or anchor locker drain lines yes, but it cant be recommended for any other purpose on the boat.... definitely not for use below the waterline.

Stu Jackson · Jan 10, 2016

It's always amusing when someone asks: "Can I use this replacement, el cheapo material in place of high quality expensive and PROVEN material?" and then disagrees with the answers which are invariably: "Nope, ya really shouldn't."

Why is important.

Except for a few, very very very few types of hoses made specifically for waste lines on boats, ALL THE REST OF THE THOUSANDS OF OTHER HOSES OUT THERE will, not maybe, not perhaps, not just might, but WILL absolutely permeate faster than you can drop your cell phones overboard if it's in your shirt pocket and you lean forward.

There's A REASON IT'S SO BLOODY EXPENSIVE. They make it so it doesn't permeate.

So, yeah, Bo, go ahead and become a contortionist to put in your ten feet. You'll get so good at it you can do it again in a few months.

Kinda the same reason you don't use dental floss for your mainsheet or halyards. Even if the color is the same.

Good luck.

druid · Jan 10, 2016

I was working with a guy who also had a sailboat, and in casual conversation we discovered we'd both just installed a holding tank. I mentioned it cost around $1000, and he laughed and said "I put mine in for $250!". Later, the topic of holding tanks came up again, and he asked "So... how do you keep yours from smelling?" PAY MORE THAN $250!!!

druid

centerline · Jan 10, 2016

Boatgeek said:
Fresh water lines are smaller than waste lines if a boater can't look at his system or anyone else's for that matter and determine which us fresh or which is waste he has no business on a boat .. And please don't assume I'm taking shortcuts I have removed the waste holding tank and all lines. Im not a pooplineoligist but I believe they need to withstand a good vacuum for pump out and the hot tub hose seems to be very durable, although not as flexible as I would like. I only need two five foot lengths ..and I know routing is very important since standing sewage will permeate faster no matter the cost of line. So im just asking if anyone has tried the tub lines. Not really wanting to hear from the politically correct boaters just the broke sailors like myself

most of us here are broke assed sailors like yourself.
over the years "most" of us have progressed in our skills concerning seamanship and boat maintenance, that we have learned what works and what doesnt, and that the most affordable way to do anything is by having the patience to do it right the first time. yes it may cost another hundred dollars to do it right the first time, but its still cheaper than the time and materials its going to take to do it over, the RIGHT way.

the answer to your question is, yes... some of us have tried to take shortcuts and use substandard methods and materials in our "early days"... so dont think you are talking to a bunch of purists here, but some very experienced DYIer's.
and always remember that we came from where you are now, and we have answered your question with the best advice possible in an attempt to help you along.... its obvious you dont like the answers you received, but they arent wrong....so how can you argue with that

.

Stu Jackson · Jan 10, 2016

Boatgeek said:
Where do you get the info of what can and cannot be used..

Bo, here's where, she literally "wrote the book" on this subject. There ids also a separate entire section on this forum about the topic.

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?53615/

We're all really, seriously, trying to help you from stubbing your own toe.

kloudie1 · Jan 10, 2016

"Cannot" is a bit strong, BG.. "should not" is a better way to say that in this case.. The issue is permeation, as folks have said.. How quickly it does that depends on how much time the hose has ... uuuhhh... stuff in it.. If you can configure the new hose so that there are no puddles inside, and you have fresh water from the lake to flush it, ya may get a few years before it starts smelling up the place. If your configuration is such that it is easy to change the hose out, it may be cheaper to change it every time it starts to offend ya.. You may be able to plumb (carefully) with hard PVC pipe in the low spots to lengthen the time between changes..
PS Welcome, even though it seems that we have some grumpy dudes commenting today..

centerline · Jan 10, 2016

Boatgeek said:
Where do you get the info of what can and cannot be used..I just finished reading up on the united states coast guard marine sanitation requirements and fail to see anything about required line use please enlighten me.

there are regulations for exhaust and fuel hose, but none that im aware of for sanitation lines... but they do have plumbing and routing rules... they could care less if your lines leak to the inside of your boat, but they dont want them leaking to the outside.... a leaking fuel or exhaust line is different in that it is a safety issue...
there are manufactures that attempt to build the very best, long life hoses for sanitation use, because they are answering the call of many thousand affluent boat owners who dont want leaks or smells in their yacht.... and the cost of the hose reflects this need, because its worth it. but even when using the best hose available, a poor installation, will always be a poor smelly installation... until its done right.

SenecaDaze · Jan 10, 2016

I can't help but sympathize with bo...
There is no good way or right way to handle sanitation.
Fittings ,clamps,elbows, even a malfunctioning toilet can cause the leaks and smells. Every one wants you to buy their supersanitizing hose or their fix it all chemical. In todays world it is all about the marketing, I like your idea bo and I say go for it. Myself I'm looking at an airhead composting toilet. But I wont listen to the haters and neither should you bo..
Most commenting here should be ashamed of their responses. But I understand .. your sailors Arrrr

centerline · Jan 10, 2016

SenecaDaze said:
I can't help but sympathize with bo...
But I wont listen to the haters and neither should you bo..
Most commenting here should be ashamed of their responses. But I understand .. your sailors Arrrr

we can all sympathize with bo in the respect that we know what it takes to do the job to make it a happy system for many years... its expensive. but what it costs to do it with quality products is less than the boat will be devalued when its stinky and needs new hoses again in a year...

and as far as anyone being ashamed of what they posted, I must say the use of the word "haters" in relation to members of this site is completely uncalled for...

anyone on this forum needs to realize when they ask a question, they wont always get the answer they want,, but will always get some very good and helpful answers.... its always obvious the one who is asking the question doesnt know, and thats why the question was asked, so when the question is answered from experience, why try to argue against it.... the respect has to go both ways...if you dont really want to know the answer, dont ask the question

Stu Jackson · Jan 10, 2016

SenecaDaze said:
But I wont listen to the haters and neither should you bo..
Most commenting here should be ashamed of their responses. But I understand .. your sailors Arrrr

But, but, but...you're a sailor, too!

Most of us, if you go back and read this entire thread, actually tried to help Mr. Bo. He kept resisting and kept asking for sources, so I gave him the link to "THE Book" by Peggie.

Dunno what more we could have done.

Kloudie is right, but all of us were trying to help him AVOID extra work, i.e., putting the new crap in, then taking it out and putting the right stuff in.

Which he should do to begin with.

It doesn't take twice as long to do it wrong, it's three times: in, out & in.

And it always costs more.

If you can't afford to do it right the first time, you certainly can't take the hit to your pocketbook to do it wrong and then correct it.

That concept has nothing to do with boats alone, it's about everything.

But boats sure qualify.

Benny17441 · Jan 10, 2016

Hot tub hoses get very rigid and with hull flexing they would likely crack. It is a similar principle as avoiding the installation of an all PVC plumbing or copper tubing for propane gas.