Teak Cockpit Floors

arf145 · Dec 6, 2015

Ah, the eternal boat brightwork question. So far as I have ever heard, there is no "showroom" solution for working teak, that is, decks and cockpit soles. Oil can seem like the answer, but I've never seen oiled teak not turn dark and dirty. If it were me, I would let it weather and gray. Scrubbing with saltwater against the grain will keep it clean.

Siamese · Dec 6, 2015

There's no law that says you have to put them back on your boat. And, unless you just let them go gray, they're going to own you...teak slave.

While they're still new and nice looking, sell 'em.

woodster · Dec 6, 2015

arf145 said:
Ah, the eternal boat brightwork question. So far as I have ever heard, there is no "showroom" solution for working teak, that is, decks and cockpit soles. Oil can seem like the answer, but I've never seen oiled teak not turn dark and dirty. If it were me, I would let it weather and gray. Scrubbing with saltwater against the grain will keep it clean.

there is a show room solution but the caveat is you have to leave it in the showroom

Stu Jackson · Dec 6, 2015

Actually good answers to your teak questions. Anything other than teak oil on them will most likely make them slippery.

Squeaks are hard to diagnose on the internet, but they are most likely from the sides, so sand them down a little at a time.

Ukeluthier · Dec 6, 2015

I had teak cockpit grates on my previous boat and really liked them, but repeatedly cleaning and oiling them became a PITA, so I let them go gray. I more recently made a teak grate for the cockpit sole of my little catboat. I made the decision from the start to let it go natural. If the air is reasonably clean where you keep your boat, it will weather to a nice silver-gray that actually nicely complements any varnished teak brightwork you may have on the boat. If dirty air or mold makes it turn an ugly color, periodic scrubbing with clean salt water will keep it nice.

Whatever you do, DON'T varnish cockpit grates. Far too slippery underfoot.

Kings Gambit · Dec 6, 2015

Monterey385 said:
I have a new Catalina 385 with new teak cockpit floors that have been removed for the winter. Two questions:
1. What is the best way to keep them looking "showroom new"? For instance, are they best oiled or treated with varnish? Of course they can't be slippery when they get wet.

2. They tend to creak a bit. Has anyone figured out a way to soften the squeaking? I was thinking of using something like weatherstripping on the bottoms to cushion the seating on the deck.

Thoughts?

IMHO the best and probably only way to keep your teak in high condition is to cover it when not in use, or remove and stow below when not in use. So, have a custom cover made, or make one yourself, and put it down on the teak when you're off the boat.

rgranger · Dec 6, 2015

I had one of those in a Rhodes 22 that I've been slowly restoring. Mine was busted up so I'm using it as a template to make a new one out of trex. I got the idea from someone else on this forum (sorry I don't remember who) but the trex looked great and it is as near to maintenance free as you can get.

So... I kind of like siamese's idea of selling the one you have while it still looks new... use the money to buy some trex, rip the trex and screw and glue yourself a new maintenance free grate... use the left over money to buy some rum and pineapple juice and drink that while admiring your new trex grate.

Gunni · Dec 7, 2015

My boat came with some gorgeous custom teak duckboards for the cockpit and both heads. After the first season with her I brought them home, sanded and oiled them and stored them away...for the day I put the boat on the market. They look real smart, but just something else to clean and maintain.

edcarter517 · Dec 7, 2015

The old way of keeping teak decks on navy ships looking good was a frequent holystoning. Afterwards the decks had a very white and soft fuzzy surface I have been told by one who did it. The wear from the holystoning required that the 3 inch thick teak decks be replaced every 5 years of so - that is why the US Navy banded the use of teak decks around the time of WW2 - same problem as with teak trim on small boats today.
From Dana's "Two Years Before The Mast"
“Six days shalt thou labor and do all thou art able,
And on the seventh—holystone the decks and scrape the cable.”
A more modern way is to pressure wash the floor now and then -with or without an oil treatment (but be careful as the water pressure can destroy the teak if the pressure is too high or the nozzle is held too close).
It's mostly about appearance, and Trex isn't that.

Brian S · Dec 7, 2015

If you really like the look of varnished decks/cockpit soles, and you don't mind being a slave to the varnish, I have heard of a way to make non-skid varnish. On your last coat of varnish, sprinkle granulated sugar on the wet varnish. When the varnish is dried, wash off the sugar with water. This will leave little craters in the varnish to act as non-skid. Sprinkling on crushed walnut shells to the last coat of varnish might work well also.

Stu Jackson · Dec 7, 2015

Why spend the $$ on Sunbrella? For example, I've used a WalMart Queen sized fitted sheet for a dinghy cover on the foredeck for years. Easy, cost effective replacement, less than $10.

Siamese · Dec 7, 2015

"As for the look ... the admiral has made it clear the boards just look too good not to use and she expects them to remain and the crew to keep them looking good (crew would be me)"

Okay, that leaves me speechless, other than, best of luck with that.

Doug4bass · Dec 7, 2015

We have a 2 year old 385 with the grates. Up here in the Yoop we have about a 5 month season. On my past boats I have tried Semco, Oil, and Sikkens. Not varnish. (Are you out of your mind??)
Although the dealer tried to talk us out of the grates, the 385 is just too stunning of a boat not to have them.
I tried a product called Teakguard when we got the boat. Its about the consistency of chocolate milk. Easy to apply and reapply. The only areas that wear are the traffic areas , which require a mid season recoat. Water based. Traction is good, even when wet. We have had many compliments, even from the dealer.
Next spring I will lightly sand to even everything up and reapply.
I think the bimini and connector help with the UV.

Kings Gambit · Dec 7, 2015

Monterey385 said:
I had an idea that I'd love some feedback on ... what if I had a sunbrella cover custom made to lay over them when the boat is at the dock with an elastic edge ... This would protect them from UV while also breathing and wouldn't involve lifting the boards up every week ... thoughts?

I love offering posts that OPs evidently don't read. Try looking at #7 above

.

Doug4bass · Dec 7, 2015

Man...this is one tough crowd. I will look up the Teakguard and get back to you, Monterey!

This is the link....http://www.teakguard.com/index.html
Stuff isnt perfect, but I think its the best for the application.
We pull the boards up mid season and clean all of the crap that visitors drop under the slats. Not a big deal at all, but pulling them up everyweek is pretty much out of the question. That is the same finish on the companionway doors.

P.S......I love the 385, but so does everyone else who has seen the "Bear".

Teak Cockpit Floors

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