make very sure they are bedded and sealed good or you will have water damage inside the fiberglassGlad you brought the topic up. Ours has come loose at the end and is leaking. The plan is to remove it and refinish it off the boat. While it is off I can also power compound the doghouse sides.
How are they attached? It looks like maybe they are just screwed on. Any suggestions for re-installation?
Sounds about right if you plan on replacing all of it. I'd recommend cutting the ends on a mitre so the joints overlap if possible.Thanks. The defender boards are 4 feet long and you can probably get 2 sections out of each board. I need 14 1/2 feet for each side. Looks like about 4 boards would be enough. Does this sound about right?
Ours were just screwed through the teak into the fiberglass. I used a mini hacksaw to cut the screws of the broken section between the wood and the hull.Glad you brought the topic up. Ours has come loose at the end and is leaking. The plan is to remove it and refinish it off the boat. While it is off I can also power compound the doghouse sides.
How are they attached? It looks like maybe they are just screwed on. Any suggestions for re-installation?
10-4 but I think the horse is already out of the barn there. The inner plywood core had delaminated some but was otherwise solid when I replaced the large fixed ports two years ago. I filled the area with epoxy and will do the same at each attachment point. Plan to campher each screw hole seal with buytel.make very sure they are bedded and sealed good or you will have water damage inside the fiberglass
that's a good thing ...you may be able to dry out the wet plywood and inject some CPES in there and solidify the plywood ..it can be a messy process but it will work if applied to dry loose wood ...for drying it out you may need to use a shop vac on each hole and vacuum for a while ....good luck10-4 but I think the horse is already out of the barn there. The inner plywood core had delaminated some but was otherwise solid when I replaced the large fixed ports two years ago. I filled the area with epoxy and will do the same at each attachment point. Plan to campher each screw hole seal with buytel.
the woodworking educators say 8 to 1 and that will work but if you are doing smaller pieces like an eyebrow 11 is a lot better and reduces the chance of licking your calf over and since you usually to over sized lumber and work it down to finished size it sometimes comes out to 9 or 8 to 1 any wayThank you. I agree with not buying from Defender. They only seem to have 4 foot lengths. Local yard (Willard) said they have no teak in stock. They are looking around for it. I was planning on a scarf joint but did not realize it should be 11 to 1. As far as installation, I was planning to take out the old screws, fill the holes with epoxy and install with stainless wood screws into the fiberglass, then cover the screw heads.