Have you replaced your standing rigging yet?

Sunbird22358 · Oct 8, 2015

My boat's standing rigging was replaced by the previous owner in 1985. I check it each year either when I haul out in the Fall, or before Spring launch (usually both!). One big factor is that my mast is stored inside, out of the weather during the winter. A lot of different factors affect how often standing rigging should be replaced, more often In southern climates (year-round use?) or if mast is not unstepped during winter storage In Northern locations (where moisture can get into swages and expand as it freezes), More often in windy areas (or if sailing offshore often), less often in areas of milder wind. I don't think there is any absolute, no doubt time limit on rigging. If you are concerned, replace... if all looks well...... and you are comfortable... wait. But, replacing the rigging, if still original, could be "cheap insurance" against problems.

Stu Jackson · Oct 8, 2015

Greg,

Hi. It's not only, as you can imagine, O'Days. We're all in the same boat.

I did our 1986 boat in 2003, five years after I took ownership. Gettin' close to doing it again.

In the mid-90s, one of my dockmates lost the forestay on his IB24 in The Slot during our normal summer winds of 25 knots! I immediately had my 1981 Catalina 25 rigging replaced, as as the rigger was removing the backstay turnbuckle, it simply disintegrated, no evidence outside. It was one of those horrible closed-body turnbuckles, I replaced with open ones.

Your boat, your choice.

But it's like reefing, if you're thinking about doing it, DO IT!!!

Ward H · Oct 8, 2015

I replaced my standing rigging before launching the first season I had the boat (2013). No clue how old it was but I had several bent turnbuckles and threaded ends so I was not taking a chance.

shemandr · Oct 8, 2015

Sunbird22358 said:
My boat's standing rigging was replaced by the previous owner in 1985..

1985 was 30 years ago.

25yearslater · Oct 13, 2015

Stays in 2013, upper shrouds 2014, lower shrouds 2015 all with new turnbuckles. Spread it out and it isn't such a financial hit. Why? They were old.

25yearslater · Oct 13, 2015

Yes I did GR. I drop the mast every year since it is cheaper to drop it and restep in the spring than to have it shrink wrapped. I also get the benefit of inspecting and servicing all the sheaves and tangs at the top. I can recommend these folks for great prices and super fast (less than 1 week) service: http://www.riggingonly.com/12.15.03.htm They are also very nice folks. I had a dyslexia attack and reversed the numbers for my lowers 201" not 102" and when I called them to explain my mental lapse they made me the right ones at virtually their cost.

jibes138 · Oct 17, 2015

Not just the cables but all the fitting and chain plates too. The toggles can fret and have crevice corrosion as well as the chain plates. As 25 years said do a little every year and it's not so burdensome. In eight years it is all replaced if you do one a year. Just in time to start back at the beginning.

shemandr · Oct 17, 2015

"Fret?"

justsomeguy · Oct 17, 2015

shemandr said:
"Fret?"

Fretting refers to wear and sometimes corrosion damage at the asperities of contact surfaces.

25yearslater · Oct 17, 2015

Jibes has a fantastic background in metallurgy and metal working. Another term that will come up is work hardening. As our rigging pins move back and forth in the tangs and chainplates millions of times during their life they work harden where they become more brittle. In summary, any crack is an impending failure in a very short time as a result of the brittle nature of the stainless and requires immediate remedy.

njlarry · Oct 17, 2015

Does anyone here find dye testing useful? If so when or how frequently do you use it?

Stu Jackson · Oct 17, 2015

It's a guitar thing. No need to worry.

shemandr said:
"Fret?"

Stu Jackson · Oct 17, 2015

njlarry said:
Does anyone here find dye testing useful? If so when or how frequently do you use it?

Larry,

Twice.

The first time everything's OK, the second time not.

Seriously, though, it's a good investment if one likes that kind of approach. The other approach is to check carefully. In many cases, potential failures will be apparent from visual inspection (meathooks or banana swages) or from simple age even if they "look" OK. In many cases, it's like reefing: If you start thinkin' about it, then maybe you oughta.

In another recent thread about this subject, I noted that we'd had our rigging replaced in 2003 for a 1986 boat. And then I started doing the math and realized it's getiin' to be that time again.

25yearslater · Oct 17, 2015

njlarry said:
Does anyone here find dye testing useful? If so when or how frequently do you use it?

I checked mine three years ago. I had some very small cracks in the masthead toggle and an elongated hole. I will be rechecking at five year intervals as most of the tangs and chainplates are original. I did replace the pivot pins for the toggles and all the rigging pins as there was evidence of wear.

jibes138 · Oct 17, 2015

Here is a concise description that is easy to understand.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fretting

Regarding dye checking, for stainless steel that is non magnetic it is best to use fluorescent penetrant inspection (FPI) that is more sensitive than dye checking, but in the absence of an FPI source dye checking is a good "next best" process for detecting cracks. Either process requires certification to be done correctly and to read the results. New products are checked with these processes so it is not just to inspect old worn stuff. You can get material defects in brand new materials, heat treat fractures, welding defects, etc. In the case of swaged fittings if they are over worked they could show defects. As a consumer you should expect new parts to have been inspected and to be defect free, but after the swaging process that is done locally it is probably a good idea to have them checked as failure of rigging is pretty catastrophic.

Jeff222 · Oct 24, 2015

I just replaced the 222's with a set from D&R Marine. Rudy has all the specs and most on the shelf ready to ship. Prices were very fair.

woodster · Oct 24, 2015

if you think your rigging may need to be changed...it's just like reefing ...its usualy time.........especially if you have no history or records showing it was done in the past ten years

wufibugs · Oct 25, 2015

Interesting, Jibes. From what I read, that process would require a developer, penetrant and a UVB blacklight, right?