Plastic trim for H26 salon table?

[CHSN WND]

I re-beded the fore and aft wood pieces on my plexi top yesterday (thanks Crazy Dave and Fred for the advice there). The side sliding wood pieces and the piece under the lift up fiberglass hatch were very dirty, but cleaned up amazingly well. Took the white forward hatch off as well so I could thoroughly clean the black crud from all around it. Came out looking like new. Also sanded and coated with marine varnish the 2 teak companionway boards and aft exterior pull rail on the plexi slider. As with the rest, the wood cleaned up beautifully and came out looking really nice, albeit darker than I had hoped. I used Seahawk Brand "Captain Jack's Varnish" V1000 (recommended by the marina) which had more of a walnut vs. natural hue. I'll probably finish with a clear marine varnish so it doesn't get any darker, but all of the wood looks 100x better. Still need to do the stern rail seats and all of the exterior teak will be restored.

I'm planning to refinish my salon table next. The current plastic edging has an unusual 1.0 - 1.5 inch "gap" that I don't think should be there. It almost looks like the plastic has shrunk, since the two butt ends are perfectly flush cut... Is that a normal after 19 years or is a piece missing?

The forum store doesn't carry the table edging. Any ideas where I might find it? Just to be clear, I'm talking about the white plastic edging that wraps around the outside of the salon table.

Last, I want to keep the reddish brown / natural hue of the interior teak. Any suggestions for the table? How about the teak and holly sole (I plan to use Starbrite 2 part cleaner followed by a light sanding to remove any stains on the table and sole, but wonder what marine varnish to use)? I'll also do the cabinet doors and head teak this winter, since I can remove those pieces and do them in the shop. I plan to use the same prep process and varnish on those as with the table and sole.

She's coming right along. It takes a little time to erase 7 years of neglect, but I haven't encountered anything that a little effort can't fix. Couldn't be happier to have found this boat.

As always, thanks in advance...

 

[flynhi4u]

Dave,
I just used a teak oil to bring out the natural color of our teak. It said you could top coat with varnish I think 36 hours after apllication. Let me know if u want the name of it.

Sam in IN

 

[CHSN WND]

Dave,
I just used a teak oil to bring out the natural color of our teak. It said you could top coat with varnish I think 36 hours after apllication. Let me know if u want the name of it.

Sam in IN

Hi Sam, I do have the Starbrite teak oil (they sell parts 1,2,3 for teak refinishing). I wasn't aware you could varnish over oil; I can give the Starbrite products a try, then varnish maybe with Cetol Marine followed by their gloss top coat? I also have to find someone other than West Marine for Cetol Marine Varnish - $45 a pint = crazy.

One other question; the forward opening plexi center hatch/windshield panel has a small crack. Knowing it's probably just a matter of time, I'm planning to replace it. I can buy a prefab hatch that is already drilled for $300. Do you think I could do better buying from someone who cuts and finishes plexi / eisenglass? The other 2 fixed plexi winshield panes are also crazed. Not sure if there's any way to restore those or if 20 years is about as much as one can expect from a piece of plastic in the great white north..?

 

[flynhi4u]

I have wet sanded then buffed out hazy plexiglass before with good success but if the crazing is bad then there is not much u can do about that. I did that with our opening portholes and the difference was amazing.
If your center hatch is flat I see no reason why it could not be sourced locally.

Sam in IN

 

[Fred]

I peeled back the rubber edging of the table about half way around and could stretch it as I reinstalled. This closed most of the gap. (The original gap was about 3 inch). I'm sure if I did this again on a warm day, with a second pair of hands, or by applying heat that I could close the gap completely. Once closed I would probably install two wood screws to hold each end in place.

 

[BrianW]

You could use a blow dryer to heat a section of the edging and stretch it while heating. BrianW

 

[CHSN WND]

Sounds like the edging naturally shrinks over time but can be re-stretched. I'll remove it so I can re-finish the table, then stretch it when I put it back on. I'll use a hair dryer since it's getting a bit chilly up here...

I suppose the ability to remove the edging for eventual future table refinishing is useful. I'll probably just plan to stretch it when needed going forward.

Thanks all for the comments - I appreciate the help.

 

[twodzusfittings]

"I also have to find someone other than West Marine for Cetol Marine Varnish - $45 a pint = crazy."

That's a quart, not a pint. Good to get facts right before crapping all over the supplies provider.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

chsn wind

When we talk this next week after the furler, you probably will have a lot of other questions as well. Let me know when the furler is in. Also I will tell you what to do with the sail and leading the furling line back to the cockpit.
As for the table plastic, I would secure both ends to keep it from shrinking in the future just like the insert of the rub rail.