Learning about anchor, gear & locker

Jun 23, 2015
117
Hunter H34 Deltaville
As I need to learn just about everything about my 1983 H34 I thought I'd start at the bow.
The boat came with what I believe is the original 10kg plow/Bruce anchor, 60' of chain & 100" of line. A cruiser from the UK mentioned just by eyeballing the anchor that it looked a little small. Research online leads me to believe it is either okay or a little small so for now I'll live with it. However I don't believe as in the first picture this is an acceptable way to tie the end of the anchor line to the boat. My plan would be to put an eye in the end of the line and replace the quick pin with a bolt through the eye.
I need to fit a new eye shown in the second pic. I have weaved lines back into themselves before but never had so much riding on the line holding. Then there is the chain. so of it looks a bit worse for the wear but again I have no experience.
How bad can the rope and chain get before it should be replaced?
Last but, well it is least, I figure the two indentations molded in the locker up high are for a Danforth anchor but what is the recess in the bottom in the shape of a shovel with a bar across.

As always any thoughts are well appreciated.
 

Attachments

Nov 6, 2006
9,973
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
The tip of the Bruce fits under the bar and the fast pin goes through the hole in the shank. Nice and secure. I have been happy with the Bruce. I don't anchor out a lot, but it sets and holds in the clay/mud/sand here.
 
Jun 23, 2015
117
Hunter H34 Deltaville
Thanks

kloudie, I'll have to check that out when I bring the anchor back.
 
Jun 23, 2015
117
Hunter H34 Deltaville
thanks for the picture kloudie

I hadn't thought of stowing the anchor before as I have the cleat in the anchor locker which I wrapped the chain around. That's good to know.
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,659
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
I have both a Danforth and a Bruce stored in the locker together. It was a nice design where two anchors can nest together. I am able to keep the rodes and chain somewhat separated so I can use either without ending up with a tangle. Regarding tying off the bitter end: feed the line through the hole in your cleat and tie a bowline. That way the horns of the cleat are still clear for cleating the anchor when deployed.
 

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,680
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
I wanted to comment on your picture #3.

By the isolated links you seemed concerned about corrosion of the links.

Corrosion is natures way of "scabbing" the metal skin. The weakness problem normally is knocking off the scab and exposing new fresh metal to air/sea.

We galvanize (hot dip zinc on iron ) to let the zinc corrode.

Don't clean and expose the fresh structural iron!

If you want to restore the zinc, in an easy way, but not really needed.

1) lay out chain and wash all salt and loose dirt off the links. Move it around to get the links salt free.
2) Let it dry and then use this or similar rust neutralizers.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/surface-treatments.shtml
3) After that combination neutralizer/primer. Spay coat the links with something like this..
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/cold-galvanizing-compound-spray

It may give you peace of mind and a pretty anchor chain.
Jim...

PS: A@koudie1
holds in the clay/mud/sand here.
Where did you find the sand in Mandeville?:confused:
 
Nov 26, 2012
1,654
C&C 40-2 Berkeley
H-34 anchor

I have that same anchor and it holds very well even in the windy choppy SF Bay when I use my boat for committee duty. That is with a very sticky, mucky bottom. It actually takes some effort to get it unstuck. I would replace the line for sure and secure it to the cleat in the bottom of the anchor locker. Difficult to tell from the photos how bad the rust is on the chain.
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,659
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Allan... Do you have a picture of your anchor locker? Thanks... Jon
Jon,

I just looked all over and I don't have a picture of that. I'll have to take one next time I'm at the boat.

My set up is the Bruce with 200' of 1/2 rode and 20' of chain. Then my Danforth is 150' of 7/16" rode and 15' of chain. I stow the Danforth rode as far aft as possible with the chain piled on top of it. Then I can get the Bruce rode to start under the shelf and as that builds up it ends up on top of the shelf with the chain on that pile. When we know we are going to be anchoring, I move the Bruce out to the anchor roller. To keep it secure I actually use that bracket inside the locker and feed the pin through a link in the chain. Our locker did not come with a cleat inside. Instead there is a bow eye (loop) that I have tied both bitter ends to. Of course when anchored and cleated at the bow, the rode bears against the edge of the anchor roller assembly and can chafe. I have a short piece of line that I tie to the anchor rode with a rolling hitch that I cleat to the opposite side after centering the rode.

Like Mark, our Bruce has served us well in SF Bay and surrounding areas.
 

PGIJon

.
Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
Thanks for the description Allan.... I want to add a Danforth in the well. While the Bruce works extremely well here... I would definitely like some anchoring options and wasn't sure what would be the best way to store it all in the one well.

What size Danforth do you use?

Thanks.. .Jon
 
May 24, 2004
7,138
CC 30 South Florida
Good application, I never trusted a loose anchor in the locker. Remember a chain is just as strong as its weakest link so inspect all of the links for corrosion damage. The line attachment to chain seems a little iffy, it looks like the thimble has corroded away and the line is deteriorated. You do not mention the size of the chain but 60' seems a bit much for a 34' boat. Sometimes excessive chain prevents an anchor from setting. I really like the performance of the Bruce anchor and its ability to hold on short scope.
 
Jun 23, 2015
117
Hunter H34 Deltaville
My mistake Benny, I have 30' of chain.

Allan I'll have to try your suggestion on going through the cleat for the tie off. I've already hacked through the bottom of the false bilge like you said to do.
I have only anchored a few times since I got the boat and have very much appreciated the cleat in the locker to tie off so I'll have to see how the end knot works. One time was in Sandy Hook Bay overnight with a stiff wind blowing me around, I didn't know there was anchorage available behind the breakwater, the anchor held so well I needed the wave action to help me pull it from the bottom.
James thanks for the links and advice, but didn't understand your PS.
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,659
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Thanks for the description Allan.... I want to add a Danforth in the well. While the Bruce works extremely well here... I would definitely like some anchoring options and wasn't sure what would be the best way to store it all in the one well.

What size Danforth do you use?

Thanks.. .Jon
Jon,

The size is easy. The one that fit in there! LOL sorry, couldn't resist as I can't remember what weight it is. I've actually had two of them. The first we pulled up with our own anchor a long time ago. I think it was serial number 1 but it fit and I thought that was pretty cool. Except that it was so rusted that it finally fell apart in the anchor locker. So I replaced it with a Danforth knock off that was maybe 12 pounds. It is a pretty good alternative anchor. I use it as a lunch hook and on many occasions as a stern anchor (oh, oh not that discussion again). Whenever we are anchored in a river or in a large raft up with several bow anchors deployed we also put out stern anchors so the raft doesn't swing with the tide and we end up with a tangle of anchors. It actually holds our boat nicely once set. When I set it as a stern anchor I walk it down on the outside of the lifelines and set it with the dinghy or while motoring forward. Then I cleat it on the stern. When I want to leave I pull up to the bow anchor while letting more stern anchor line out. Once the Bruce is on board, I just let the boat drift back and the Danforth becomes a bow anchor and I retrieve it the same (easy) way.

Allan
 

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,680
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
James thanks for the links and advice, but didn't understand your PS.
I mistyped kloudie1's name too. It is a local joke since I live about 40 min drive from him on I-10 on coastal Mississippi. Mandeville is located on a large inland lake in Louisiana. Remember LA is delta MUD. You have to go almost to 100 miles to get SAND. Inside joke.

But...

I think the Bruce does a better MUD job than the Danforth and my boat has both stored outboard on roller rack.

I spent many years in corrosion control (notice I didn't say prevention). In fact zinc corrodes so rapidly it gets a grey haze on the surface which is Zinc Oxide (corroded Zinc). The last tip is so does Stainless steel. Totally submerged SS must have Oxygen to form Fe2O3 protection. Luckily the SS corrosion rate is very very small.

Jim...

PS: That you can understand.;) All of the links shown in Pict #3 look good to me. You must lose about 25% of diameter before you might change that link. Designers test to 140% of rating.
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,659
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Allan I'll have to try your suggestion on going through the cleat for the tie off. I've already hacked through the bottom of the false bilge like you said to do.
I have only anchored a few times since I got the boat and have very much appreciated the cleat in the locker to tie off so I'll have to see how the end knot works. One time was in Sandy Hook Bay overnight with a stiff wind blowing me around, I didn't know there was anchorage available behind the breakwater, the anchor held so well I needed the wave action to help me pull it from the bottom.
James thanks for the links and advice, but didn't understand your PS.
I learned that trick with my semi permanent topping lift for my whisker pole. That way if it got away from me it wouldn't let the pole fall to the deck. But i could still cleat the line without the horns already full.

Hope your boat is staying fresh and dry now. Mine sure does without that pan liner in the sump.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,973
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Laughing.. James, I am always amazed when I head east along the coast .. When I bring up the anchor, it is clean!.. Yup.. have plenty mud/clay in the poncho-train.

Allen.. Thanks for the note about storing both in the locker.. I have wondered if the Bruce and a Danforth could co-exist in there.. I carry a next-size-down Bruce in the lazarette as a lunch hook, or to keep the stern from swinging around in a narrow bayou.
 
Jun 23, 2015
117
Hunter H34 Deltaville
Real bilge sitll wet

Allan and I'm on the hard. There's still a little seepage that I get out every time I'm there. I think the board extended further from where I cut and is still only allowing slight seepage. Sorry to get off topic but your comments from a previous post "don't worry, start hacking" and that smile on your avatar just won't leave my head.
Jim, got it on the PS and thanks for the what to look for on the link degradation.
 

PGIJon

.
Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
Allan.. Thanks for the reply... loved the humor! Sorry for the delay, I was a bit under the weather... I was wondering if there would be enough room to split the well by fiberglassing (is that even a word?) a divider. That way the rode could be kept separate. Thoughts? -Jon
 
Jul 28, 2013
126
Hunter 34 Holland, Mi
I wanted to ask the same question this spring!! I got busy and forgot. Thanks for asking!!