Engine Flush
- Thread starter Ken13559
- Start date
Depends .....................
I change mine every two years to keep up the corrosion inhibitors. And I say every two years because I'm too lazy to drain the domestic hot water heat exchanger and related hoses. The old stuff coming out is as clear as the new stuff going in so I've never considered an engine flush. I use distilled water in the 50/50 so there's no concern about scaling.
If the old coolant is full of corrosion products, an engine flush may be in order. However, the more important issue would be to determine the cause of the corrosion correct it.
........................ on what the old antifreeze looks like coming out.
I change mine every two years to keep up the corrosion inhibitors. And I say every two years because I'm too lazy to drain the domestic hot water heat exchanger and related hoses. The old stuff coming out is as clear as the new stuff going in so I've never considered an engine flush. I use distilled water in the 50/50 so there's no concern about scaling.
If the old coolant is full of corrosion products, an engine flush may be in order. However, the more important issue would be to determine the cause of the corrosion correct it.
why not just put a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case and run it for a while and then change to no oil.....not sure you need to do anything at all unless it has been neglected over time ...like to long between changes and filters ......they don't get much dust in them being on the water and if it has been using the proper recommended oil all this time there should be virtually no paraffin buildup ...have you had the oil analyzed
Unless the engine has been running for long periods of time below the recommended operating temperature, you probably do not need engine flush treatment. I have seen this when people remove a stuck thermostat and forget to install a new one.
Running an engine in cold weather without the proper thermostat installed can cause sludge buildup. A milky white buildup will accumulate in the engine if the engine cannot get up to the recommended operating temperature.
There is a video on Youtube that shows how to use the STP engine flush. If you decide to use it, follow the directions to the letter.
Changing the oil and oil filter on a regular schedule provides adequate crankcase cleaning as long as the engine is operated at the manufacturer's recommended engine temperature.
Ouch ........................
...................... you wouldn't want to get the two of those mixed up.
If it ain't broke don't fix it
If you can't fix it don't break it.
For an experiment, the next time your hands are oily/grimy try using a little engine oil (maybe Shell Rotella T) as though it were soap - rub it in. You will be amazed a how it dissolves the grime. It still needs to be removed with soap but this demonstrates (at least to me) how well the detergent works. I would not bother with anything beyond maybe lowering the interval between oil and filter changes, or what I did when I first bought my boat, a double oil change. (I also did a double coolant change)
I figure oil additives are like vitamins, the biggest benefit is to those who sell them to you.
By the way, when Woodster referred to changing to no oil I wonder if he was making a sarcastic reference to the advertising video that purported to show that after a certain oil had been used the engine could run with no oil.
If you can't fix it don't break it.
For an experiment, the next time your hands are oily/grimy try using a little engine oil (maybe Shell Rotella T) as though it were soap - rub it in. You will be amazed a how it dissolves the grime. It still needs to be removed with soap but this demonstrates (at least to me) how well the detergent works. I would not bother with anything beyond maybe lowering the interval between oil and filter changes, or what I did when I first bought my boat, a double oil change. (I also did a double coolant change)
I figure oil additives are like vitamins, the biggest benefit is to those who sell them to you.
By the way, when Woodster referred to changing to no oil I wonder if he was making a sarcastic reference to the advertising video that purported to show that after a certain oil had been used the engine could run with no oil.
Just change filter & oil (quality diesel oil) every 50 hours or once a season. Run the engine at the proper speed/rpm; don't idle or run at low rpm for extended periods of time. With a warmed up engine run at high or wide open throttle for 2 minutes each time out. I do it on the return.
I had an oil analysis of both the engine and transmission as part of a mechanical survey when I bought my boat last year. Seems like the add for the analysis was about $50 per test.
There are places online that will send you a kit to return with your oil sample. But you might be able to find a service locally, it is a service routinely used by businesses that run lots of diesel (and gas) equipment to monitor wear and know when service is needed rather than waiting for it to break down unexpectedly.
Ken
Try Blackstone
www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php. They send you the sampling kit for free - the analysis is $25 US.
For what it is worth - I avoid all 'crankcase flushing' products because flushing achieves no benefit in addition to periodic 100 hr. oil changes.
Charles
Try Blackstone
www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php. They send you the sampling kit for free - the analysis is $25 US.
For what it is worth - I avoid all 'crankcase flushing' products because flushing achieves no benefit in addition to periodic 100 hr. oil changes.
Charles
In a word, they're gimmicks.
Modern oils have additive packages that are nothing short of incredible. Included are detergents, friction proofing and corrosion inhibitors. Actually, introducing another additive can reduce the qualities of that package. The sage advice of old that is even more important today is to "CHANGE YOUR OIL REGULARLY". Nowadays engines tend to outlast the cars that they are in, largely due to the improvement of motor oil. It's a tedious and not so glamorous thing to change your oil but that is the key to engine longevity. It's amazing to me the extent that most people will go to in an effort to avoid that chore. Be sure also to use diesel rated crankcase oil in diesel engines and use the recommended viscosity.
Modern oils have additive packages that are nothing short of incredible. Included are detergents, friction proofing and corrosion inhibitors. Actually, introducing another additive can reduce the qualities of that package. The sage advice of old that is even more important today is to "CHANGE YOUR OIL REGULARLY". Nowadays engines tend to outlast the cars that they are in, largely due to the improvement of motor oil. It's a tedious and not so glamorous thing to change your oil but that is the key to engine longevity. It's amazing to me the extent that most people will go to in an effort to avoid that chore. Be sure also to use diesel rated crankcase oil in diesel engines and use the recommended viscosity.