Problem solved, just bust out your Visa card!!
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/730_373/hatch-trapezoidal-bomar.cfm
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/730_373/hatch-trapezoidal-bomar.cfm
Newbe purchased #14612 this week.
- Thread starter bushav
- Start date
I like that hatch too. It is the reason I wanted a "new design" hull or better. Today we went down to the coast and measured for the new main sail. While there we thoroughly scrubbed and bleached the interior, cleaned the fresh water jug and tested sink pump and repaired the mushroom caps on the forward hatch.Welcome bushav !
Nice looking boat. She doesn't appear to need much work at all.
Good move on the sail. IMO it makes a lot more sense to simply replace it, when they get that bad.
I must say I'm a bit envious of the forward hatch. My "new design" has the fiberglass one with the goofy tiny deadlight.
I also cleaned up electrical system. A previous owner had added a secondary switch panel which only went to depth finder (which is now working!). I removed that panel, sorted out and removed any unnecessary wires, and tested systems. Bow light needed some corrosion cleaning and new bulb, None of the mast lights are working although I have power at mast base connector. Bulbs must be corroded or bad. Surprise, the VHF works although mast coax is DOA. I was able to transmit and receive from adjoining boat slip via a temporary antenna I made. Cabin lights are working but covers are brittle and yellowed. I need to find new lights that will cover mounting holes left when I remove these.
New outboard will be in tomorrow but I don't think we will get back for a few weeks. I was impressed that the bilge was dry. There had been several rains since last week. Evidently the moisture was coming from the rotten drain tube on the anchor locker.
Sorry no pictures of sparkling clean cabin. Wife had run out of patience by late afternoon. It was hot, hot, hot. The last hour was a race to get finished and in the air conditioned truck.
Besides sail measurement photos I did snap this one of our little yacht bobbing in the lagoon as we were leaving.
Lane
A little late in the thread, but...
Fine looking boat you've upgraded to. My F-I-L has a Hobie 16 that I learned on a few years back, before buying our '86 new design swing keel. Sometimes I miss the excitement on the Hobie, but then I have another sip of my drink during dinner while cruising with my wife, 2 kids, my buddy and his 2 kids on our 22. Definitely more challenging to try that on a Hobie.
Sounds like you're loving your 22 already.
Fine looking boat you've upgraded to. My F-I-L has a Hobie 16 that I learned on a few years back, before buying our '86 new design swing keel. Sometimes I miss the excitement on the Hobie, but then I have another sip of my drink during dinner while cruising with my wife, 2 kids, my buddy and his 2 kids on our 22. Definitely more challenging to try that on a Hobie.
Sounds like you're loving your 22 already.
Too bad the deck molds were different for the fibreglass hatch versions, otherwise I would buy one in a second.
I know you mentioned the trailer issue, here and in another thread... one of our regular posters just had a new trailer built for his boat and I think it was a trailer builder in your neck of the woods. Wasn't it Gene?
Yup, Gene did have a new trailer built but he has swing keel. Another member, W4swk had a trailer built for a Wing keel. details on both are in this thread;
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=1212211&highlight=C22
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=1212211&highlight=C22
I checked out the manufacturer he used in Columbus, GA. They gave me the second best quote. We have a magic tilt dealer close by who quoted $2650. I think I like the magic tilt design better. For sure I want bunks instead of pads.
Have you guys found a soured for replacement trash cans that fit the galley hole?
Lane
Yes, forget the trash can and modify space for a mini keg, lol!
See the Crazy Mods thread...
See the Crazy Mods thread...
I took a friend down to the coast yesterday for some work on the boat and its first trip out of the slip since I purchased Hoosier Daddy. In fact the first time the boat's been out of the slip in several years.
We lowered the mast for some work on the nav lights. Boy, that sucker is a heavy mast for two guys and no fixtures to help us. Just brute man power. I got all the lights working. I had to replace the anchor light as the lens was kaput. Luckily West Marine is two miles from the slip. Whats $30 bucks when your in need. We got the mast back up and I tested our work. For some reason the lights are working goofy. I think the ground is screwed up and causing the lights to come on together and work off the wrong switches etc.
We also replaced the outboard motor bracket wood block with a nice looking starboard one I made. I made it 2" thick which is about 1/4" too thick. But our new Tohatsu 5 hp wiggles on and is very secure. By the way that is one fine running engine.
So, time to set sail.
My friend (who likes the motor better than the sail) found running the motor the most fun. Here he is grinning because he was betting me the bridge would not raise for us. It amazed him that little us warranted stopping traffic. I liked the klazon horn the best.
Once we got out in St. Andrews bay I raised the mainsail. If you remember I have a new one on order with Hyde Sails. This one was repaired by me the day prior using aircraft dacron and my wife's sewing machine. My patch looked great and saved me $550. Regretfully a seam above my patch blew out. The rip was below the reefing point. So we just reefed her and kept going!
The weather was overcast and stormy but the wind was light and the water flat. So we headed out the pass to the beach side. There we made a friend who gave us the close inspection. I think he wanted the oysters attached to my hull. Nevertheless it was a beautiful sight.
I tried to scrape the hull out near the beach where the water was clear but the undertow was beating me up. It was too dangerous to be under the boat so we headed back into the bay where we anchored off Shell Island for the night. A great night of sleep with the pop top deployed. I woke at 3:30 to a stiff wind and checked to make sure we were still in good water and not pulling the anchors along. All was good so I turned in and woke at 9 am! After a short walk on the beach I got serious about scraping the oysters off the hull. Almost two hours of work but boy it looks better now. And moves better too! By then it was almost noon so we sailed/motored in, secured the vessel, cleaned up and headed to Bayou Joe's for lunch.
I would say it was a great maiden voyage!
We lowered the mast for some work on the nav lights. Boy, that sucker is a heavy mast for two guys and no fixtures to help us. Just brute man power. I got all the lights working. I had to replace the anchor light as the lens was kaput. Luckily West Marine is two miles from the slip. Whats $30 bucks when your in need. We got the mast back up and I tested our work. For some reason the lights are working goofy. I think the ground is screwed up and causing the lights to come on together and work off the wrong switches etc.
We also replaced the outboard motor bracket wood block with a nice looking starboard one I made. I made it 2" thick which is about 1/4" too thick. But our new Tohatsu 5 hp wiggles on and is very secure. By the way that is one fine running engine.
So, time to set sail.
My friend (who likes the motor better than the sail) found running the motor the most fun. Here he is grinning because he was betting me the bridge would not raise for us. It amazed him that little us warranted stopping traffic. I liked the klazon horn the best.
Once we got out in St. Andrews bay I raised the mainsail. If you remember I have a new one on order with Hyde Sails. This one was repaired by me the day prior using aircraft dacron and my wife's sewing machine. My patch looked great and saved me $550. Regretfully a seam above my patch blew out. The rip was below the reefing point. So we just reefed her and kept going!
The weather was overcast and stormy but the wind was light and the water flat. So we headed out the pass to the beach side. There we made a friend who gave us the close inspection. I think he wanted the oysters attached to my hull. Nevertheless it was a beautiful sight.
I tried to scrape the hull out near the beach where the water was clear but the undertow was beating me up. It was too dangerous to be under the boat so we headed back into the bay where we anchored off Shell Island for the night. A great night of sleep with the pop top deployed. I woke at 3:30 to a stiff wind and checked to make sure we were still in good water and not pulling the anchors along. All was good so I turned in and woke at 9 am! After a short walk on the beach I got serious about scraping the oysters off the hull. Almost two hours of work but boy it looks better now. And moves better too! By then it was almost noon so we sailed/motored in, secured the vessel, cleaned up and headed to Bayou Joe's for lunch.
I would say it was a great maiden voyage!
Great post, I'm glad you had fun despite a few technical issues.
On the NAV lights; Whatever two or three lights you may have on the mast (Steaming, Anchor, possibly deck light) they can share the same ground but will have independent hots. Some people try to ground the lamp directly to the mast via one of the stainless screws. This is a bad idea, it will corrode quickly. One big thing to check is the deck fitting if you have the type that has 2 or 4 pins and screws in. First off, corrosion screws it up, then check that the pins line up to the correct wires.
Sorry to see your main blow out like that. I thought it would make a handy spare but it looks like it has suffered too much UV and is basically too 'brittle'. You'll love the Hyde Main.
You running rigging looks shot. You'll probably be ok for the rest of the season but be prepared to deal with any line failures. Around Memorial Day in the spring West Marine has a 40% off Bulk Rope Sale. I got all my running rigging in different colors for around $300 when it would normally be around $500. They have done the bulk rope sale at other times but only at 30% off. Watch your email, they send notices of sales if you are a WM Advantages member.
On the NAV lights; Whatever two or three lights you may have on the mast (Steaming, Anchor, possibly deck light) they can share the same ground but will have independent hots. Some people try to ground the lamp directly to the mast via one of the stainless screws. This is a bad idea, it will corrode quickly. One big thing to check is the deck fitting if you have the type that has 2 or 4 pins and screws in. First off, corrosion screws it up, then check that the pins line up to the correct wires.
Sorry to see your main blow out like that. I thought it would make a handy spare but it looks like it has suffered too much UV and is basically too 'brittle'. You'll love the Hyde Main.
You running rigging looks shot. You'll probably be ok for the rest of the season but be prepared to deal with any line failures. Around Memorial Day in the spring West Marine has a 40% off Bulk Rope Sale. I got all my running rigging in different colors for around $300 when it would normally be around $500. They have done the bulk rope sale at other times but only at 30% off. Watch your email, they send notices of sales if you are a WM Advantages member.
The running rigging is shot! Ropes old and mildewed. I want to fancy them up with the colored ropes in the spring. I think one of you guys posted the list of required ropes somewhere. I'll have to find it. Is there a guide for standard color usage on the ropes?
I have the four prong plug. I think one post is larger than the others but strangely is not the ground.
Lane
I have the four prong plug. I think one post is larger than the others but strangely is not the ground.
Lane
On the electrical plug, yes the big prong should be the common ground. I'm willing to bet the P.O. has the order of pins screwed up between how they are sorted on the top side and what they match to on the bottom side.
Stingy Sailor has a post on his blog that has the measurements for all lines led aft. He and I have the pre 86 hull, but I seriously doubt there are any significant differences in rigging that would change anything. He uses all line halyards but not internal, so that is where the 8mm comes into play and new sheaves in the Mast-head. Details about that are in his blog as well. All of his measurements were made for lines led to cockpit plus enough for splices at both ends. He also has some notes about color selection; I worked off his notes and basically expanded from there. I used Red/Green for port/starboard halyards, then used blue for other control lines, black on my Main Sheet and Vang Tackle... I have some pics in my thread of the lines I got but I have not yet rigged any of them. I won't be getting to that until the spring, I just jumped on the Memorial Day 40% off sale this year still thinking I would be in the water by 4th of July... Pfffffft! :cussing:
Stingy Sailor has a post on his blog that has the measurements for all lines led aft. He and I have the pre 86 hull, but I seriously doubt there are any significant differences in rigging that would change anything. He uses all line halyards but not internal, so that is where the 8mm comes into play and new sheaves in the Mast-head. Details about that are in his blog as well. All of his measurements were made for lines led to cockpit plus enough for splices at both ends. He also has some notes about color selection; I worked off his notes and basically expanded from there. I used Red/Green for port/starboard halyards, then used blue for other control lines, black on my Main Sheet and Vang Tackle... I have some pics in my thread of the lines I got but I have not yet rigged any of them. I won't be getting to that until the spring, I just jumped on the Memorial Day 40% off sale this year still thinking I would be in the water by 4th of July... Pfffffft! :cussing:
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Further to what Luke has said...
For the the New Style C22, the factory mast wiring colour code is:
Green=ground
Black = Deck Light (part way up mast in same housing as steaming/bow light)
White=Bow/Steaming/Motor Light (points forward from partway up mast)
Red = Anchor Light (top of mast)
If your connector is bad, take a look at my thread. I have some photos of the Chrome+Brass connector I replaced it with.
My original connector had corrosion, and the cheap plastic locking ring was broken/missing.
Send me a PM with your email address. I have a spread sheet I made with all the running rigging, colors, exact size/brand for each line, length, and the regular price at WM and the then sale price. I think the grand total was around $289 before tax.
I did not end up getting the line for the boom topping lift, I think I will use a boom kicker or possibly a rigid boom vang, this simplifies the clutter of lines at the end of the boom.
Anyone else is welcome to the spreadsheet; also it would be helpful is someone could tell me how to insert a spreadsheet as an attachment on a post so we could all save ourselves a bunch of PM's and emails!
I did not end up getting the line for the boom topping lift, I think I will use a boom kicker or possibly a rigid boom vang, this simplifies the clutter of lines at the end of the boom.
Anyone else is welcome to the spreadsheet; also it would be helpful is someone could tell me how to insert a spreadsheet as an attachment on a post so we could all save ourselves a bunch of PM's and emails!
Try change the file extension to .txt then attach it.
When someone downloads it they would need to rename it back to whichever file extension it originally was.
apparently the forum software supports "bmp gif jpeg jpg mov pdf png txt wmv" so any of those should work as a temporary file extension.
Another option, if you have a google account is to post it on google docs and link to it here.
Worst case.. send it to me and I'll stuff it up on a public document server and link it.
Away from ship this week and want to order some supplies. If anyone is near their "new design" boat I would appreciate the following dimensions.
1) size of removable closure board and max thickness allowed in V berth closure. My removable board over porta potty area is missing. I want to order a HDPE sheet to make one out of.
2) footprint dimensions or model of igloo cooler needed for step.
Thanking You In Advance,
Lane
1) size of removable closure board and max thickness allowed in V berth closure. My removable board over porta potty area is missing. I want to order a HDPE sheet to make one out of.
2) footprint dimensions or model of igloo cooler needed for step.
Thanking You In Advance,
Lane
#1) I assume you only need rough dimensions ?
The original panel over the portapottie is actually Cushion+Panel all-in-one. Some type of wood on the bottom, and upholstered on ALL sides.
The panel is a quadrilateral NOT a rectangle.
Approx dimensions of a support panel would be approx 34" x 23" x 1/2" thick
(1/2" thick is accurate. I used a leftover piece of wood to confirm it.)
#2) The original cooler was made by Coleman Model #5248. They currently make the same size as 48 Quart Cooler Model No.3000000152. It's a bit cheaper quality than the original and lacks the latch (which sucks anyhow). You can buy them at walmart.
I'd love to find one with better insulation that fits.
If you try that, keep in mind that the published dimensions are not the whole story for most coolers. Handles and shape (some are tapered) could make one fit, or not fit. The dimensions only get you close. Igloo makes a better one that MIGHT fit, I can't remember the exact model, and it wasn't available locally so I never found one to test it.
Here's an old thread that talks about this topic, including dimensions:
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=82583
The original panel over the portapottie is actually Cushion+Panel all-in-one. Some type of wood on the bottom, and upholstered on ALL sides.
The panel is a quadrilateral NOT a rectangle.
Approx dimensions of a support panel would be approx 34" x 23" x 1/2" thick
(1/2" thick is accurate. I used a leftover piece of wood to confirm it.)
#2) The original cooler was made by Coleman Model #5248. They currently make the same size as 48 Quart Cooler Model No.3000000152. It's a bit cheaper quality than the original and lacks the latch (which sucks anyhow). You can buy them at walmart.
I'd love to find one with better insulation that fits.
If you try that, keep in mind that the published dimensions are not the whole story for most coolers. Handles and shape (some are tapered) could make one fit, or not fit. The dimensions only get you close. Igloo makes a better one that MIGHT fit, I can't remember the exact model, and it wasn't available locally so I never found one to test it.
Here's an old thread that talks about this topic, including dimensions:
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=82583
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Christmas in September! Hyde Sails just sent tracking number for new main. Shows I will have it Friday. We will put her to use Saturday!
I also ordered 200' of 5/16 XLS off Amazon for $110. Going to start replacing sheets and halyards.
What method do you guys use to attach new line to old for feeding new halyard up and over mast top?
Lane
I also ordered 200' of 5/16 XLS off Amazon for $110. Going to start replacing sheets and halyards.
What method do you guys use to attach new line to old for feeding new halyard up and over mast top?
Lane
