I have noticed several boats that are set up with the head sail sheets running into the block mid-ship then through a second block aft of the winch. The line passes the winch and runs through a block and back to winch. Is there any advantage to this set up? is it just a different design. Just wondering!
sheet rigging question
- Thread starter Mike 1
- Start date
Mike, the idea is always to set up the blocks for a fairlead to the jib sheet winches. We have exactly what you described, with a forward fairlead, back to another fairlead on the aft end of the track and then to what is called a big FOOT BLOCK on the coaming way back aft, and then forward to the winch. Many cases this is installed to avoid the jib sheet from rubbing against a dodger. If you look at the boats with it, you'll then see the "why" of the block(s) arrangement.
Thanks! I was Just curious why some were set up that way. It makes sense to avoid a dodger or other obstruction!
Fair Winds
Mike
Fair Winds
Mike
On some boats, it is to give a better angle of the jib sheet on the winch drum. An angle too low will bind on the winch drum. Too high will cause overrides. The angle should just about match the angle of the lower part of the drum. An aft block usually makes it perfect.
Remember the load on the foot block is TWICE what it is on the jib sheet proper, because it turns through 180 degrees (doubling the shear load). This means on my H25, calculating the jib-sheet load at approximately 1000 lbs (max) allows for Schaefer 3-series or 5-series blocks on the lead, but something much bigger for the foot.
I am contemplating mounting two 7-series cheek blocks on the coaming back there; but have not decided on the angle and location just yet. In the meantime most of us probably use snatch blocks hooked into the toerrail track; but this will bugger up the aluminum but good in no time.
Wichard makes an eye fitting that bolts into the toerail just for this; but they want megabucks just for that. A cheaper solution is, once you know where to put it, getting one of the West Marine u-bolts and mounting it in the toerail-- pull out one bolt, drill a hole for the other leg of the u-bolt, and press it in with 5200. I did this in numerous places on my boat. With this you can use snatch blocks.
I would recommend sliding a piece of water hose up onto the snap shackle to keep it from grating on the inside of the toerail, however.
Never underestimate loads on a boat, particularly for any kind of turning block. The failure mode is small bits of aluminum and stainless steel flying off into the air with you in the way.
I am contemplating mounting two 7-series cheek blocks on the coaming back there; but have not decided on the angle and location just yet. In the meantime most of us probably use snatch blocks hooked into the toerrail track; but this will bugger up the aluminum but good in no time.
Wichard makes an eye fitting that bolts into the toerail just for this; but they want megabucks just for that. A cheaper solution is, once you know where to put it, getting one of the West Marine u-bolts and mounting it in the toerail-- pull out one bolt, drill a hole for the other leg of the u-bolt, and press it in with 5200. I did this in numerous places on my boat. With this you can use snatch blocks.
I would recommend sliding a piece of water hose up onto the snap shackle to keep it from grating on the inside of the toerail, however.
Never underestimate loads on a boat, particularly for any kind of turning block. The failure mode is small bits of aluminum and stainless steel flying off into the air with you in the way.
Thanks for the suggestions on the U-bolts. I have been messing with some different bolck positions and once I find a couple I like I may do some u-bolts!
Mike
Mike