Stern Rail

Apr 3, 2015
1
oday 25 new bern
I have made a stern rail for my 1976 O'day 25 and will be mounting soon. We live about an hour from our boat and need a little information. Can someone tell me how the base screws are mounted inside the coming? Should I use some kind backing plates? If anyone has a factory installed rail how is it mounted?
Thanks for any suggestions,
David in North Carolina
 

Pat

.
Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
I think I would call Rudy at D & R Marine in Assonet, MA.....he should be able to tell you.
Ours are screwed on but are still tight....we bought 272 in 1986....so that is remarkable.
Good luck ! Pat
 
May 8, 2011
189
ODay 25 Cambridge
I removed the stern rail on my Oday 25 and reinstalled it after drilling holes thru the rail to run a stern light wire. The rail is thru bolted with 1/4" stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts. Hex head bolts work well. The forward port side nuts are difficult to install due to the interior 'pan' but the stern and starboard bolts are no problem.
 

mm2347

.
Oct 21, 2008
243
oday 222 niagara
I have made a stern rail for my 1976 O'day 25 and will be mounting soon. We live about an hour from our boat and need a little information. Can someone tell me how the base screws are mounted inside the coming? Should I use some kind backing plates? If anyone has a factory installed rail how is it mounted?
Thanks for any suggestions,
David in North Carolina
Backing plates are always good. I often use old alum. highway signs aval. thru local highway dept. and a S.S fender washer between nut and backing plate. My boat has about 4 years of use and so far there has been no problem w/ the two diff. metals. (used in fresh water lake and min. elect.) Make sure that your bolt holes are counter sunk and if deck is cored use Main Sail tech. and his butal tape is better than most sealants. The larger the backing plate and proper mounting the less chance of gell cracks.
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
The coaming may be cored across the top, so might want to "pot" the holes with thickened epoxy. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck

How to seal with Butyl Tape: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

To reduce the chance of corrosion due to the AL and SS, you could coat the bolts and SS fender washers liberally with Ultra Tef-gel or Lanocote, or in a pinch, if you can find it, anhydrous lanolin. Best I found from a heath store was "pure" lanolin. Pharmacies didn't even know what "anhydrous" meant. Then again, if I hadn't been driving around trying to get anhydrous lanolin at the last minute, I would have just ordered some Ultra Tef-gel. :doh:

I now have a tube of Tef-gel in my tool kit. :dance:

Backing plates are always good. I often use old alum. highway signs aval. thru local highway dept. and a S.S fender washer between nut and backing plate. My boat has about 4 years of use and so far there has been no problem w/ the two diff. metals. (used in fresh water lake and min. elect.) Make sure that your bolt holes are counter sunk and if deck is cored use Main Sail tech. and his butal tape is better than most sealants. The larger the backing plate and proper mounting the less chance of gell cracks.