Hunter 356 new sanitation hoses

[Bob 04 H260]

This fall I'll replace all the sanitation hoses on our boat. It is a 2003 so due I assume.

I'll add a holding tank clean out port at this time, easier to install a larger vent hose with access to the inside of the tank. I'll use the Trident 101 hoses as suggested by Peggy.

The Hunter PDF for the factory install of the head specifies 16 ft of 1.5" hose (seems like a lot ?).

Has anyone else done this job ? I want to make sure I order enough.

My plan is to use the old hose to pull the new one in. I'm not sure what route the hose takes and how much access I will have.

Thanks, Bob

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The Hunter PDF for the factory install of the head specifies 16 ft of 1.5" hose (seems like a lot ?).

Has anyone else done this job ? I want to make sure I order enough.

On a pricey little job like this, I'd want to measure the exact length on MY boat before ordering Every boat in a run is a little bit different and you'd hate to order a piece that was a few inches short .

 

[Bob 04 H260]

On a pricey little job like this, I'd want to measure the exact length on MY boat before ordering Every boat in a run is a little bit different and you'd hate to order a piece that was a few inches short .

Thanks, good point Ralph.
Some of these 356's had just the macerator pump going over-board while Hunter shows some with both the macerator and also a bypass for a "direct deposit". We have just the one direct hose from the head to the holding tank. If I buy an extra few ft I can start off doing that hose and use the extra for the pump out and macerator connections. I don't mind having a couple of ft left over, better for me than being too short. I'm not keen to leave the fittings on the tank open for a few days while I wait for a delivery. We are usually living aboard while I'm doing these jobs.
Bob

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Thanks, good point Ralph.
Some of these 356's had just the macerator pump going over-board while Hunter shows some with both the macerator and also a bypass for a "direct deposit". We have just the one direct hose from the head to the holding tank. If I buy an extra few ft I can start off doing that hose and use the extra for the pump out and macerator connections. I don't mind having a couple of ft left over, better for me than being too short. I'm not keen to leave the fittings on the tank open for a few days while I wait for a delivery. We are usually living aboard while I'm doing these jobs.
Bob

I like your term "direct deposit".

Not clear on whether you have have the fittings open now waiting for replacement but you could look at tightly taping over the open fittings with duct tape until you have the new hose in hand. That, and a very large sign on the head which reads "DO NOT USE".

 

[Bob 04 H260]

I like your term "direct deposit".

Not clear on whether you have have the fittings open now waiting for replacement but you could look at tightly taping over the open fittings with duct tape until you have the new hose in hand. That, and a very large sign on the head which reads "DO NOT USE".

No Ralph, we are at home in Canada. The boat is kept in Florida over the summer. We live aboard over the winter. I usually gather materials, repair sails, rebuild pumps etc. over the summer months. (Also beg a few sailing outings from friends around home.)

If I had the new hose in hand when I arrive it would be a good time to the change them out before it had any use. We pumped and flushed it well in May so should be empty and dry by the time we move back aboard.

Bob

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

In that case, I hope you have marina facilities veeeeeeery close at hand for a number of days while renovations are under way.

I wonder if anyone still makes chamber pots .

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Yes...on a boat, they're called portapotties.:dance:

Seriously, a cheap one from Walmart or Sears could come in handy if you want to stay aboard while you do the work.

 

[Don Lucas]

Having done the hoses on my 410 my advise is - get the hose longer than you need. You will need the extra to twist, push, pull etc. The factory pre-assembled the hose so the discharge hose is probably zip tied to the rest of the head hoses and it is best to remove the smaller hoses first and then reinstall them so there is more room to run the big hose that is a bear to bend. Remove the toilet from the head instead of trying to work around it (good time to check the condition of the lag screw holes as you may need to make up a new mounting board). Attached lines to the hose as you remove them so that you can use it to pull the new ones in (plan on it being a strong line as it doesn't help if it breaks). If the hose has to go though a wall to from the head to the tank consider cutting a hole in the pan liner (I had to) right from the start (cover it later with a piece of laminate). Get GOOD hoses as you don't want to ever do again later, trust me. Seriously consider getting the more flexible hose, but it isn't really all the flexible just more so than the "other" hose. Replace them ALL even the vent line. Get a 90-degree elbow for the short piece to the head, it will make life better in the long run to connect and change joker valves than the tight bend of a 1 piece hose.

I think it took me around 20 hours of labor and $600 in materials to do my 2 heads last year. I hope your hose come out and go easier than mine, but I wouldn't count on it.

 

[chuckwayne]

Bob, I used 17 feet to do Escape - the hose runs accross the stern and up th eport side to the head. I found a 1 1/2" coupler, disconnected the hose at the tank, duct taped the two hoses together on the coupler, and then disconnected the head end. with a lot of working, and 2 people, we pulled the hoses thru and poked the old hose out the porthole in the head. worked well, no mess no spill.. if you're doing this I'd replace and move the macerator, too. I moved the macerator up onto the back of the vertical panel in the center of the sugar scoop with a tee valve in between so the macerator is always disconnected from the tank unless you unlock and turn the valve. meets CG regs and keeps your macerator from rotting out and leaking - they are prone to doing that and it's a mess. we always pump out at a station since the entire Gulf of Maine is a n discharge zone

 

[Bob 04 H260]

Thanks for the advice everyone !

I did replace our macerator pump last season just in case and at that time moved it over to the port side swim platform and added a shutoff valve in case it needed changing in the Bahamas with a "full load" and no pumpouts available .

Chuckwayne, did the 17 ft do just the head to tank run or was it enough for the tank to pump out fitting as well ?

Bob