Raritan pumps wet when DRY selected...

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Mike,We've been trying to tell you two things:
1 clear the vent You seem to have done that, great. 2 Service the head you already have, it's a great unit. Since we've told you what you have, download the manual for it, which includes all sorts of good "How to service this toilet" information. Since you're smart enough to run a sailboat, you should be able to figure it out. Good luck.

No, he hasn't cleared the vent yet.

It took me a while to realize there have been TWO people looking for help here..."Pat" in Kansas is the one who solved his problem by clearing the tank vent. Mike has bent over backward to avoid actually doing that. Pat's "standard" PH II is old enough that a new pump makes sense...Mike's PHC isn't, but that doesn't rule out the possibility that it needs something that makes it easier to replace than fix. He needs to find out WHERE in the system the problem is...'cuz if the toilet isn't the problem, a new pump won't solve it.

 

[malyea]

i would rebuild it if it was me doing the work but if i was paying someone else to fix it.. it may be cheaper in the long run to just replace it depending on the billing per hr ...plus i would have the peace of mind knowing it had been done correctly if some one else was doing the work...there really is not that much to the pump assy ...just some time and methodically assembling it ...but that can be time consuming for a first timer as there is a learning curve

When I add up the time spent rebuilding, the uncertainty of how well both heads were previously maintained, the desire to get it fixed first time around and the modest cost increase of a pump assembly over the rebuild kit ... I'm going to replace the pump assemblies and inspect/clean the vent lines.

Thanks

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Mike, a rebuild kit (part # PHIIRKC for PH II built after June 1992) is about $70. A new pump assembly is about $200 including shipping. I wouldn't call that a "modest" difference just to avoid an hour's work and a learning curve that can come in very handy the next time you have a problem.

 

[malyea]

Thanks

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

And btw...don't even THINK of trying to replace your pump with a $90 Jabsco...it won't fit your base.

 

[malyea]

I promise

 

[Apex]

Maybe I can muddy the waters with another Mike that is having head odor issues. At first I thought it was a plugged vent, as the head would backflow a bit. On pump-out I could hear the air rushing through the vent. Nonetheless I spent several cycles of filling the tank with fresh water and re-pumping out, cycling on and off the pump suction and even flushing the vent hose with water to flush it out, then another pump-out cycle to pull any water from the vent to tank. Voila no backflow to speak of! There is a small amount of wax residue on the screens, but seems like good venting??? Odors are still there......when I bought the boat 2 yrs ago, it looked like new plumbing and tank, so don't believe it to be permeation. I am guessing poorly installed vent line is allowing odors to escape!


VENT LINE

they ARE important part of the system.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

There is a small amount of wax residue on the screens, but seems like good venting???

Get rid of the screen...it's only there because boat builders--and some yards--use the same vent thru-hulls that's rated for fuel tanks for ALL tanks. The screen is a spark arrester...and it creates more problems than it solves, becoming clogged up with dust pollen, other air pollution and waste from any spills out the vent. If the screen material metal, add rust to that mix. So knock it out and keep your vent line open by stcking a hose nozzle up against the thru-hull and backflushing the vent line every time you wash the boat...and check for mud dauber nests regularly each spring.

Odors are still there......when I bought the boat 2 yrs ago, it looked like new plumbing and tank, so don't believe it to be permeation. I am guessing poorly installed vent line is allowing odors to escape!

If you're talking about odor out the vent when the toilet is flushed or the boat rocks, yes. But if you have odor inside the boat, it's not coming from inside the tank 'cuz odors from inside the tank have only one place to go--out the vent. So unless the tank or a hose connection is leaking, odor INSIDE the boat always has another source....permeated hoses (cheap flexible PV can permeate in weeks), a wet dirty bilge or sump...trapped water below the sole....

 

[Apex]

Thanks Peggy: It's a leaky vent I'm sure. Gobs of silicone, push-lock style fittings and loose connections are all leading me to rebuild. In that light, I am looking to relocate at the same time, it is currently where the v-berth filler cushion and subsequent standing space normally resides....I can see the shelves below the outboard ends of the v-berth I would also like to reclaim.

Removing the screen sounds like a good idea, THANKS. And the bilge is spotless and now dry so sure it is a leaky vent line. Pyuw!

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Actually the v-berth is the best place for a holding tank unless it's too far from the head.

From your comments, I'm guessing the odor INSIDE the boat is your problem. If your vent line hose connections aren't snug, it's unlikely that the hose from the toilet and the pumpout hose are much tighter. But don't rule out permeated hoses It wouldn't surprise me if someone who didn't know any better than to use push lock fittings also used hot tub hose, which can permeate in just weeks. If the hose is ok, the loose connections may be fixed by simply replacing those fittings with proper thread-barb tank fittings.

We prob'ly should have some one-on-one conversation about how to "renovate" your system...send me an email (EMAIL pls, not PM) if you'd like to pursue that.

 

[malyea]

No, he hasn't cleared the vent yet.

It took me a while to realize there have been TWO people looking for help here..."Pat" in Kansas is the one who solved his problem by clearing the tank vent. Mike has bent over backward to avoid actually doing that. Pat's "standard" PH II is old enough that a new pump makes sense...Mike's PHC isn't, but that doesn't rule out the possibility that it needs something that makes it easier to replace than fix. He needs to find out WHERE in the system the problem is...'cuz if the toilet isn't the problem, a new pump won't solve it.

Just to update my progress...
Bought two pump assemblies, installed two pump assemblies, all problems solved - both heads work perfectly.
Thanks

 

[Mark Maulden]

I replaced hoses couple yrs ago and have been getting random odors and check all fittings etc. I was standing in the shower, cleaning, and got a blast of odor. The dorade vent is in the cabin top in the shower and the vent is on deck a little forward of that. Turned the vent cowl facing aft and seems to have solved it...doesnt help the ventilation though...

 

[Pat]

Cleaning the vent was easy (5 minutes) and made a huge difference.....then I discovered my little ball was misplaced in the pump so I patiently took it apart, removed the screen and ball and and walla, it is all working just fine again......between this forum and Peggy's advice (also Raritan service dept.) I found that improper winterization (lazy) had resulted in the little black ball being displaced
in the pump...pumps easily in and out again...so thank you everyone.....I've now winterized it properly for fall 2015 and all is well. Patrick in Wichita

 

[seadaddler]

Peggy has given you great info to help with your problem
and just double check what she has said step by step and you
will learn how to service a very good head and save yourself some $$$
Nick