Broken rub rail

[Crawdaddy282]

Hello!
Attached is a picture of a broken rail. Thoughts on if I can replace just a section or have to take all off and replace?
1985 O'Day 23.5

 

[njlarry]

I think one 4 foot section or longer would look fine. I believe D abd R Marine still stocks it. Must be other sources out there.
Good luck with it.

 

[Crawdaddy282]

Thanks! I will look into D&R.
Maybe I am not correct-it isn't the actual black plastic but the 'molding' above it. Is this something I could replace in sections too?

 

[agprice22]

I have a piece of rub rail that might fit your boat. Please take a picture of the face of the rail. I need to know what the profile of the base looks like. I just bought a 20 ft section from D&R Marine to fix a friend's O'day 26. I could sell you a section.

Thanks.
Andrew

 

[Crawdaddy282]

I am sorry for the delay. Just launched today and it was difficult to say the least. Good thing I have a 'back up' motor. now at dock.
Here is a pic of the side. Looks like I new to replace top and bottom of the black plastic?

 

[jibes138]

You will need to replace enough length to get at least two screws to hold it on the boat, but yes you can replace a short section. Pull the black rubber out of the track to get it out of the way ONLY in the area you are replacing, then cut off the damaged section. Use the old piece as a guide to drill the screw holes in the new piece. Screw on the new piece and match the ends to fit the ends still on the boat.

 

[agprice22]

<img src="http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87805"/> I am sorry for the delay. Just launched today and it was difficult to say the least. Good thing I have a 'back up' motor. now at dock. Here is a pic of the side. Looks like I new to replace top and bottom of the black plastic?

The black plastic is a continuous insert into a white, hard plastic rub rail holder . You will keep your black plastic insert. Pull out a section of the black plastic to expose the damaged area of the rub rail holder. You will need to expose an area that includes at least two screws, so that you can firmly attach each end of the new section. Measure the damaged length to extend an inch beyond the nearest screw at each end of the damaged section.

Give me that length. I will see if I can sell you a section.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

[agprice22]

Once you get the new section, you will cut the ends at 45 degrees. You will lay this section over the current rub rail and draw where you need to cut the old one at 45 degree angles. Cut the old section out and fit in the new section. Screw in the new section. Refit the black insert.

That should do it.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

[Indysailor]

Once you get the new section, you will cut the ends at 45 degrees. You will lay this section over the current rub rail and draw where you need to cut the old one at 45 degree angles. Cut the old section out and fit in the new section. Screw in the new section. Refit the black insert. That should do it. Thanks, Andrew

When I did a repair like this I decided to just cut the rigid white rail straight rather than at 45 degrees. It just seemed way too awkward of a spot to accurately miter the joint, but a more skilled hand than I might not think so. One tip, slide a piece of Masonite or cardboard behind the rub rail as a protection against cutting the gelcoat. I did mine with a hacksaw, used 3M 5200 to seal everything up and to bridge the millimeter or so between the new and old rigid rail. It turned out better than I had thought it would. You can also make the rail more malleable by putting it in a black plastic bag out in the sun for an hour or so.

Luckily, you don't have to turn a corner...

 

[agprice22]

Yes. I put a board behind it to protect the boat.

Thanks! Good point!

Andrew