Over heating

[Bill1565]

Westerbeke 35D is over heating badly. Good raw water flow,no heat removal. Exhaust water is cool when engine is over 180 . Was getting 2+ hours tilll over heat. Now down to less than 1 hour till Gauge reaches 200. Adding 50/50 mix at every stop. Have circ pump, H/E gaskets waiting at boat yard. Gonna back flush H/E and water heater, swap out circ pump.disassemble H/E and rod out. Did I miss anything?

 

[Ken Cross]

Thermostat.
Ken

 

[Bill1565]

Thermostat. Ken

Thanks, have t'stat, 2 gaskets waiting at boat yard. Forgot to mention that.

 

[woodster]

check your oil and make sure its not milky looking heaven forbid.....also check your pressure cap on the heat exchanger to make sure its holding the correct pressure...the adding antifreeze has got me puzzled is it coming out the raw water exhaust if not where is it going to .....wish i was there to help you my curiosity is got me wondering oh and ckeck your raw water impeller and hoses along with the seawater strainer for blockages


good luck

 

[Bill1565]

check your oil and make sure its not milky looking heaven forbid.....also check your pressure cap on the heat exchanger to make sure its holding the correct pressure...the adding antifreeze has got me puzzled is it coming out the raw water exhaust if not where is it going to .....wish i was there to help you my curiosity is got me wondering oh and ckeck your raw water impeller and hoses along with the seawater strainer for blockages good luck

Oil looks good on dip stick. When i fill the radiator cool, the fluid expands, opens the radiator cap and evaporates . Over flow hole was never drilled by factory, so overflow bottle does not work. I have found that engine runs longer between over heats when i fill tank. Raw water impeller ok, flow good, but exhaust water is cool. Not taking heat out.

 

[woodster]

Oil looks good on dip stick. When i fill the radiator cool, the fluid expands, opens the radiator cap and evaporates . Over flow hole was never drilled by factory, so overflow bottle does not work. I have found that engine runs longer between over heats when i fill tank. Raw water impeller ok, flow good, but exhaust water is cool. Not taking heat out.

sounds like you are on the right track by concentrating on the heat exchanger ....while in there fix the over flow hole to the bottle good luck

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

How much 50/50 mix are you adding every stop?

If it's significant I would question where is it going? You could have a hose leak somewhere or the heat exchanger could be rotted through and it's going out with the seawater. So I would not just "rod out" the HE. That's not really how you should clean it anyways.

Take the HE off the boat, clean it up. Take it to a radiator shop and have them soak it and pressure test it. You might find it doesn't hold pressure and then your problem is you need a new HE.

If you are only adding small amounts of 50/50 mix then you might need to check if you are air bound. I know the C34 wiki has a good write up on this issue. They have the same motor as you so their info might be helpful in other areas too.

 

[FasterHorses]

We had a similar situation on our shake down cruise last year. Luckily enough, we had a friend who is a diesel mechanic who came to our rescue while we were in port. We were all quite baffled after going through all tech service recommendations until said friend started disconnecting each hose. Finally came to him that we needed to bleed the air out of the line while continuing to fill with the 50/50. Our overheating problem stemmed from an air lock in the hose line. This may be the cause of your problem as well...

Good Luck,

TONY E.

 

[Bill1565]

sounds like you are on the right track by concentrating on the heat exchanger ....while in there fix the over flow hole to the bottle good luck

Gonna do that. May be tuff finding straight metric hose barb to use as drill guide. Don't want to mess up threads for factory rt angle barb.

 

[Bill1565]

How much 50/50 mix are you adding every stop? too.

About a quart. Guy on another forum suggested start engine with cap off se if i got bubbles. I did, added about another pint. Engine capacity is only 2 quarts. Hot water heater 2 more, but hot wateris not heating.

 

[Bill1565]

C34 wiki has a good write up[/URL] on this issue. They have the same motor as you so their info might be helpful in other areas too.

Do they allow unwashed Hunter owners? I once tried to follow up on something Stu posed, but could not as I didn't belong.

 

[Bill1565]

We had a similar situation on our shake down cruise last year. Luckily enough, we had a friend who is a diesel mechanic who came to our rescue while we were in port. We were all quite baffled after going through all tech service recommendations until said friend started disconnecting each hose. Finally came to him that we needed to bleed the air out of the line while continuing to fill with the 50/50. Our overheating problem stemmed from an air lock in the hose line. This may be the cause of your problem as well... Good Luck, TONY E.

Gonna see about this too, Tony. Hot Water Heater is higher than engine. Doesn't heat water. When i get more A/F I will disconnect HW hoses, flush and fill. Only had one gallon of mix on the boat, 60+ miles from the marina. Begged another from a good friend. Gave him 3 liter bag of Cabernet. Used most all of both gallons, but now we are anchored 3 miles from the boat yard. With cold engine tomorrow, I'm golden.

 

[kloudie1]

Sorry to hear the problem is still with you, Bill.. That is WAY too much juice leaking out ! (how about that for obvious?) If you aren't finding that much in the bilge, it is leaking out and a prime suspect would be the heat exchanger bundle.. May have a perforated tube.. Pressure in the coolant side is a good bit higher than in the sea water side so it will go overboard with the exhaust. You are headed the right way there.. The tank being higher than the engine may be a source of an air lock which would let the engine overheat then boil a bunch of coolant out.. so you are heading the right way there too.. Great news that the oil is not milky.. Good luck with the fix, Bill.

 

[Bill1565]

Sorry to hear the problem is still with you, Bill.. That is WAY too much juice leaking out ! (how about that for obvious?) If you aren't finding that much in the bilge, it is leaking out and a prime suspect would be the heat exchanger bundle.. May have a perforated tube.. Pressure in the coolant side is a good bit higher than in the sea water side so it will go overboard with the exhaust. You are headed the right way there.. The tank being higher than the engine may be a source of an air lock which would let the engine overheat then boil a bunch of coolant out.. so you are heading the right way there too.. Great news that the oil is not milky.. Good luck with the fix, Bill.

Thanks Kloudie. Will keep you posted. Anchored about 3 miles from boatyard in fresh water lake. Half gallon of 50/50 mix left. Feeling positive. Gonna run the dingy ob in fresh water, grill a steak for the admiral and chill till tomorrow.

 

[Bill1565]

Thanks Kloudie. Will keep you posted. Anchored about 3 miles from boatyard in fresh water lake. Half gallon of 50/50 mix left. Boatyard said" several" packages of parts waiting there for me. Feeling positive. Gonna run the dingy ob in fresh water, grill a steak for the admiral and chill till tomorrow.

maybe drink some wine with my steak.

 

[kloudie1]

Great! a little wine and steak will definitely help .. Hope that that the folks at the yard can find the problem!

 

[Stu Jackson]

Do they allow unwashed Hunter owners? I once tried to follow up on something Stu posed, but could not as I didn't belong.

Yes, of course. Everyone is welcome. The C34 Forum and the tech wiki are open to all. Only the Technical Notes Online (28 years of Mainsheet magazine articles) is reserved for C34IA Members. Any time you can't access anything, pm me.

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

Bill,

I just reread this thread. With all of the information here is what I would do if this was my boat.

1. Remove the heat exchanger. Clean, pressure test, if good, repaint and reinstall (I did this on my boat the 2nd year I owned it as the PO never did on a 2001 boat). Replace the gaskets and o-rings. Oh, and the pencil zinc but you should be checking that monthly and replacing as needed.
2. Remove thermostat and either replace or test to ensure it is good.
3. Check the coolant pressure cap. Again I just replaced mine for the short money instead of checking it.
4. Check all hoses. Look for leaks. Replace older hose preventatively. Replace or check all hose clamps (I only use awab style below the waterline)
5. Recharge and rebleed the system with coolant. I used the Maine Sail technique with the ball valve and funnel (on the C34 wiki) but the other techniques listed on the C34 wiki will work as well.

I did all of the above as preventative maintenance. I would also add a coolant recovery tank if my engine didn't have one.

I would leave the coolant pump at the last thing I would touch. Unless you know it's bad, I would look at these other areas first.

One thing I didn't notice you listing at all was taking off the end caps of the heat exchanger and looking for debris that was obvious to see. Mine was filled with junks of zinc when I first took it apart. A gift from the PO.

Good luck and fair winds,

Jesse

 

[Bill1565]

Thanks for the advice. Gonna do all that and more when we get to boat yard. Currently at anchor waiting for yard to open up dock space. PO replaced engine just before We bought boat, but I think he bought a short block, so H/X may be 10 years old. We'll see,

 

[Bill1565]

Yes, of course. Everyone is welcome. The C34 Forum and the tech wiki are open to all. Only the Technical Notes Online (28 years of Mainsheet magazine articles) is reserved for C34IA Members. Any time you can't access anything, pm me.

Thanks Stu