Replacing jib furler line??

Mar 26, 2011
3,961
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
a. I'm pretty sure that is a Hood Seafurl, like the one I wrote this post on re-building:

http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2009/09/hood-seafurl-800-bearing-replacement.html

b. You can simply attach the line with a clove hitch with a stopper at the end. I've done this several times, takes only minutes. There is no need to open it and I would not just to replace the line.



c. Yup, decore the first 15 feet. Easy.

d. Bet those set screws are seized, meaning the forestay needs to come loose. Another reason not to.
 
Jan 10, 2015
130
. . Pensacola, FL
Thanks for this info. I didn't think about a clove hitch. That would work.

And, it sounds like de-coring the first 15 feet of line is common practice. There's no worry about a loss of strength, or with the core not being even with the end of the line?

Now, just so I'm clear, when the old line is cut, the old knot will be loose inside the lower housing? I realize it shouldn't be a problem, just making sure I'm not missing something.

Oh, I wouldn't bet a plug-nickel on those set screws not being seized...lol
 

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
I wouldn't even consider de-coring my headsail furler line. The thought of the line parting and releasing a reefed-down genoa in a 40 kt blow would send me looking for better ways to get the required number and lay of wraps on the drum.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,344
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
On our 34 foot boat we use 3/8" line for the furler. Yes, it's "thin" but with no gloves it works fine in most conditions, in heavy wind I put a pair of sailing gloves on.

It's true that many folks are or may be more affected by the "hand" of the line, especially on jib sheets on smaller boats for example. But I agree with an earlier poster who said that he line in sluggo's picture did look pretty thick, although there's no way to tell for sure.

My ProFurl "allows" the use of a jib sheet winch if necessary, but I've never had to use it. Most other furlers do not.

I'd opt and recommend thinner line than going to coring, I agree with Gunni.
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
VF,

Looking at the pic, note how the line seems to bend down. Look under the housing bottom, you may be surprised to see a knot tied there. Mine looks similar. It also has a knot.

CR
 
Jan 10, 2015
130
. . Pensacola, FL
Agree.

My problem is how to get to that knot to cut it off, replace the line, and tie another knot. Hopefully that lower housing is held by screws that have not seized, and can be dropped down to allow access to the bottom of the drum and the knot.
 
Jan 10, 2015
130
. . Pensacola, FL
If I can't drop the lower housing, I'm wondering if trying a clove hitch with an overhand knot on the bitter end will work, as was suggested by Thinwater. I guess it would be no big deal to have the old cut-off knot loose in the lower housing.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,344
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
If I can't drop the lower housing, I'm wondering if trying a clove hitch with an overhand knot on the bitter end will work, as was suggested by Thinwater. I guess it would be no big deal to have the old cut-off knot loose in the lower housing.
It very well might. Having something loose down inside a drum is NOT a good idea.

Take your time. Go look and see what's there. Avoid conjecture. :):):)

Then take some pictures and get back to us.

Step-by-step, inch-by-inch, row-by-row.:)
 
Jul 1, 2014
262
Hunter 34 Seattle
Gotta say, I'm not really crazy about the idea of de-coring the furling line.
As I was reading about this technique I was thinking if you don't need the diameter for strength why not use a smaller diameter?

On our 34 foot boat we use 3/8" line for the furler. Yes, it's "thin" but with no gloves it works fine in most conditions...

I'd opt and recommend thinner line than going to coring, I agree with Gunni.
I think I've got 5/16" on my 34. Never thought about it being too small for reefing but maybe I should bump it to 3/8".
 
Jan 10, 2015
130
. . Pensacola, FL
It very well might. Having something loose down inside a drum is NOT a good idea.

Take your time. Go look and see what's there. Avoid conjecture. :):):)

Then take some pictures and get back to us.

Step-by-step, inch-by-inch, row-by-row.:)
Yes indeed. I'd certainly rather NOT having a left-over piece of line in the lower housing.

I'll get some pics ASAP and we'll go from there. It's not like the line absolutely has to be replaced right now, so I do have time to figure this out.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Some people will put in a larger furline line, find out it won't all fit on the drum, then take out the core. Especially if you uncore the drum-end... you weaken the part that takes the most load when you first taken in the entire sail.
 
Jan 10, 2015
130
. . Pensacola, FL
Ok, I got out to the boat today, motored out, turned around, and moored bow-in so that I could get a good look at, and a pic of, the front of the furler.

The name on the furler is not legible. But, it looks like the big Phillips head screws hold the lower housing in place. IF they are not seized, this looks to be a simple matter of backing them out, dropping the lower housing, cut the knot, and then remove/replace the line.
 

Attachments

Jan 10, 2015
130
. . Pensacola, FL
Replaced the furler line today. The three screws came out with no trouble, lower housing dropped down, and from there it was pretty straightforward. Biggest hassle was getting the housing aligned and back secured without fumbling a screw overboard.

Kind of embarrassing to have needed to start a thread on how to do this...:redface:
 
Jan 10, 2015
130
. . Pensacola, FL
You're too kind, Stu! :)

I will say this: not a lot of clearance between the bottom of the drum and the lower housing body. Simply cutting the line 'topside' of the drum and leaving the knot adrift inside the lower housing is probably not a good idea...perhaps only as a method of absolutely last resort, like the line parts when underway and a temporary line needs to be run until back in port and a proper repair can be made.
 
Oct 26, 2010
2,214
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
A friend is having some trouble trying to remove the three screws that hold on the cover so he can drop it down to replace the furling line. The screws appear to be seriously seized. He has tried PB Blaster and the like.

Any suggestions on getting these screws out? I'm thinking heat but I wouldn't want to damage the bearings.

Thanks in advance
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,244
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
A friend is having some trouble trying to remove the three screws that hold on the cover so he can drop it down to replace the furling line. The screws appear to be seriously seized. He has tried PB Blaster and the like.

Any suggestions on getting these screws out? I'm thinking heat but I wouldn't want to damage the bearings.

Thanks in advance
try an impact screw driver ...oh and some kroil