I am in the process of touching up the interior of my H31 and I'm having trouble matching the original stain color. Does anyone know what color stain would be a close match?
1987 Hunter 31 interior stain
- Thread starter BDRogers
- Start date
I think you will find that the interior was finished with Daly's Sea Fin. You can purchase this from this website if I remember.
Thanks, that helps. I've never worked with teak oil, but it doesn't seem that difficult to work with. Can/should I varnish over it or is that the top coat?
I have been using Tung Oil with a high gloss finish, on some of the fading finish on my interior, it is not uniquely for teak, but can be used for other woods as well. I am not a wood expert, but varnishing it defeats the idea of using an oil. With a tung oil or some other oil finish when the finish starts to fade you can either wax it or clean it and with a minimum of prep simply apply more of the oil finish. I just found the link below, I will try the sandpaper trick sometime soon.
Check out this link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqKzUGkiue0
Tung oil is a great sealer and if applied in numerous coats and buffed it will give you a very deep rich finish to your trim and panels. Once you use it just stick the can in your tool kit and you won't need to use anything else over it. If it gets dull I will mix/dilute some oil and apply another light coat with buffing to bring back the sheen. If it gets to bad just use some 0000 wool or very fine sand paper (wet) and you can even remove fine scratches or abrasions. I would not wax over the top of it because you will just have to remove the wax to re-coat, and if you try to varnish over it you will defeat the purpose of the oil and create a maintenance issue. Just be patient and take your time, use thin coats, let them soak in between coats, and apply at least four. If the wood is in bad shape you might even have to go 5 or 6 , but the end result will be very nice, rich, and easily maintained.
Ok I got it now. Thanks that's good information. I have a situation where the original finish was varnished over years ago. The finish was damaged on top of the map table by a leaking window port and I was trying to figure out how to repair it. The wood is not damaged just the finish.
The problem with your table is the entire surface has already been varnished, and what you have now is a repair and not a new application. You would have to remove all the varnish to finish it with oil, and it looks as if that would be a job and a half. Your best bet for that would be to sand the the damaged area as lightly as possible in order to feather the existing finished area out as gradual as possible ( making sure to avoid going to deep into the surface). I would take the sanding all the way to the nearest joint ( not down to raw wood, just roughen the surface to get a good bond between the existing coating and the new. Apply thin coats of varnish and keep building until the finish is blended let each coat dry, hit it with wool, then apply another thin coat. Do this until the finish is built up to a more uniform appearance. If possible, I would also test a surface out of site to make sure the finish you use will match th existing.
Oh....I get your situation. My nav table had a similar issue. I took the whole thing off (you will have to take the teak plugs out, a small drill bit and a screw will take care of that) took it home stripped it with a stripper,(don't sand it too much its veneer) sanded it, stained it and then put a spar urethane with a high gloss over it (four coats). I chose the polyurethane because it gets a fair amount of abuse. Ill try to send a picture next time i'm at the boat. I am pleased with the results. I am not quite skillful enough to make the kind of repair that Mr. Templeton suggests. I find sanding and varnishing somewhat therapeutic.
I would also prefer poly over varnish for interior surfaces if you're going with a surface finish, but if you go to the trouble of stripping the surfaces I would just go ahead and refinish it with the tung oil. As long as you have it down to the raw wood the oil will just make it easier to maintain and keep fresh for years to come, no chipping,spalling, water rings,or yellowing.
You can probably go to the Daly's site and see how to apply the finish. I think a rag or brush will do.
take some mayonnaise on a rag and rub it in a straight direction with the grain ..if no joy try toothpaste and do the same thing again you may have to add a little baking soda to the toothpaste and if that doesn't do it the wet a rag with mineral spirits and if that doesn't bring results then it time to refinish it
And as a safety reminder, always take any rags with oil on them off of the boat ( out of the house ) and lay them out to dry. They can self ignite.
Hi, I'm just in the process of disassembling and stripping my cabin stairs (teak). They were coated with Cetol marine and I didn't like the coating/color so I've stripped them to bare wook and have sanded them with 220 sand paper to a nice finish. I'm wanting to coat them with Wattco teak oil but I'm wondering: 1. Is it ok to have the finish sanded to 220 grit or is that too smooth? 2. I had heard that a person should dilute the Wattco oil 25% with Turpentine 25 Turp and 75 Wattco. Is this correct? How many coats?....Thanks! Don Voigt