H36 running rigging specs

[tmjb]

Does anyone have details?

I just purchased an '81 H36 and need to replace all of the lines and would like to purchase new prior to removing the old if possible.

Any info would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Steve Dion]

Contact the staff at this website regarding your running rigging. I believe that they have all of the measurements for your boat.

 

[rardiH36]

If SBO doesn't have the info, here is a photo of the running rigging page that was in the owner's manual binder that my PO left in the nav desk. And for your future reference, I've also attached a copy of the standing rigging spec sheet.

Comments to info on the running rigging sheet:

- I would suggest use as a starting point since modifications by PO's might have changed the requirements.

- Line technology has improved since 1980. Depending on how hi-tech you want to go, certainly 7/16", rather than 1/2" is more than enough for the sheets and halyards. I find 3/8" is enough diameter to be comfortable for the main halyard which is what I have now. The jib halyard is not used frequently, so 3/8" I think should certainly be ok for anybody. For my jib sheets I am currently at 7/16" with standard yacht braid. But for my next go-around, I probably will go down to 3/8" and up to the next level of strength and stretch resistance.

- Topping lift ... doesn't really pertain as it is fixed wire (also on the standing rigging spec sheet).

- Main sheet ... If you think that you might modify the stock main sheet block arrangement to add more purchase, then go longer. I modified from 5:1 to 7:1 so I could avoid using the cabin top winch. The 60' main sheet length is ok, but I can't let the boom all the way out for downwind sailing. A work-around ... sort of ... for me is to let down the traveler out all the way although with the short duration of down wind sailing legs on San Francisco Bay, I don't usually bother.

- Traveler ... Again, if the PO has added purchase, then 13' on each side will be too short. I don't know what the original traveler purchase was, but I suspect 3:1. My PO bequeathed me 5:1. 26' on each side is just right. The traveler can run all the way to one side and the other side still has enough line to flop a few feet past the cabin top.

- Your mainsail reef points are likely different than the original sail that was delivered with the boat. And you likely have two reef points. So you've got to do your own measuring. Also depends on how the lines are rigged/routed.

- Furling line ... I don't know the length of mine. But I believe shorter than 100'. Also, the 1/4" diameter as shown on the spec sheet is pretty thin. Maybe not for strength, but the thin diameter has a greater tendency to bury itself in the wraps on the furler drum. Suggest that you do you own research on the length and diameter.

Main halyard length ... When I replaced mine, it was suggested that I go longer so in case of emergency the halyard can be used as man overboard hoist.

 

[tmjb]

I much appreciate both the original specs which are invaluable and the updated recommendations and experience.

I think my boat has the original gear for the most part. I purchased it from the original owner who apparently used it, but with not too much sailing, in the '80's, some use in the 90's until '97, after which it apparently hasn't been in the water.

The main sheet is 5:1 and the traveller 3:1. The furler line looks like 1/4" and seemed rather small to me. All of the line is very dirty and stiff.

What brand/type of line do you use?

Thanks again.

 

[Alctel]

Probably changing mine out this winter as well (it's the original lines I think) so just wanted to thank rardiH36 for his invaluable information (again!)

And congrats on the boat tmjb - you won't regret it, the Hunter 36 is a wonderful model.

Quick question - do you have a quarterberth? I think on the later models they added one, while mine is a 1980 and just has the nav table.

 

[tmjb]

Thanks. Looking forward to getting her in shape and sailing.

Mine also has the terrific Nav station and huge seaboard cockpit locker - no quarter berth.

 

[tmjb]

If SBO doesn't have the info, here is a photo of the running rigging page that was in the owner's manual binder that my PO left in the nav desk. And for your future reference, I've also attached a copy of the standing rigging spec sheet. Comments to info on the running rigging sheet: - I would suggest use as a starting point since modifications by PO's might have changed the requirements. - Line technology has improved since 1980. Depending on how hi-tech you want to go, certainly 7/16", rather than 1/2" is more than enough for the sheets and halyards. I find 3/8" is enough diameter to be comfortable for the main halyard which is what I have now. The jib halyard is not used frequently, so 3/8" I think should certainly be ok for anybody. For my jib sheets I am currently at 7/16" with standard yacht braid. But for my next go-around, I probably will go down to 3/8" and up to the next level of strength and stretch resistance. - Topping lift ... doesn't really pertain as it is fixed wire (also on the standing rigging spec sheet). - Main sheet ... If you think that you might modify the stock main sheet block arrangement to add more purchase, then go longer. I modified from 5:1 to 7:1 so I could avoid using the cabin top winch. The 60' main sheet length is ok, but I can't let the boom all the way out for downwind sailing. A work-around ... sort of ... for me is to let down the traveler out all the way although with the short duration of down wind sailing legs on San Francisco Bay, I don't usually bother. - Traveler ... Again, if the PO has added purchase, then 13' on each side will be too short. I don't know what the original traveler purchase was, but I suspect 3:1. My PO bequeathed me 5:1. 26' on each side is just right. The traveler can run all the way to one side and the other side still has enough line to flop a few feet past the cabin top. - Your mainsail reef points are likely different than the original sail that was delivered with the boat. And you likely have two reef points. So you've got to do your own measuring. Also depends on how the lines are rigged/routed. - Furling line ... I don't know the length of mine. But I believe shorter than 100'. Also, the 1/4" diameter as shown on the spec sheet is pretty thin. Maybe not for strength, but the thin diameter has a greater tendency to bury itself in the wraps on the furler drum. Suggest that you do you own research on the length and diameter. Main halyard length ... When I replaced mine, it was suggested that I go longer so in case of emergency the halyard can be used as man overboard hoist.

Finally getting serious about rigging now our weather here the NE has improved and have more questions for you as a result:

I looked into replacing my mainsheet and halyards with 3/8" line vs the original 1/2" (I think). However it seems like my rope clutches won't work with it - they are 14/16 mm/9/16"-5/8" Lewmar. Did you have this and replace them?

 

[Alctel]

Finally getting serious about rigging now our weather here the NE has improved and have more questions for you as a result:

I looked into replacing my mainsheet and halyards with 3/8" line vs the original 1/2" (I think). However it seems like my rope clutches won't work with it - they are 14/16 mm/9/16"-5/8" Lewmar. Did you have this and replace them?

I actually have the exact same question - although my mainsheet line looks smaller than 1/2 and seems to work ok right now

 

[RTB]

I used the running rigging calculator here - http://shop.hunterowners.com/cu/detail-rrc.php?a=2&bid=1581

Main halyard 7/16 X 113 feet. Cleats off in the cockpit.

Jib halyard 7/16 X 128 feet. Cleats off in cockpit.

Spinnaker halyard 7/16 X 111 feet. Cleats off in cockpit.

Jib sheets 1/2 X 58 feet (X2)

Spinnaker sheets 7/16 X 72 feet (X2)

I'm using 1/2 for the mainsheet, but have Schaefer rope clutches for 3/8-5/8 line.

 

[Jim Legere]

Bigger diameter lines for sheets = more comfort handling. Its not about the load rating, its about how hard the sheet is on your hands. My jib sheets are 5/8". I think my mainsheet is 1/2". I have 3/8" staysail sheets. If halyards are all-rope, then the largest size the sheaves will handle will result in the minimum stretch. All dacron double braid on my boat. But even with high tech composite rope, it comes down to the hand feel, IMHO. Of course, the size ratings of jammers, clutches and self tailing winches impose their own restrictions.

 

[FredV]

Related question - I replaced all sheets and halyards on my 37-C, but now need to attach the new lines to their respective shackles. Although I've researched several "knots" websites, I still can't figure out the best knot to use. What would you recommend?

Thanks!

 

[RTB]

I had a rigger splice my ends on the shackle. Otherwise, a bowline.

Ralph