1979 27 Yanmar YSB8

Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
OK. So starting at 8AM tomorrow I will be tearing my little yanmar apart trying to stop the overheating. Below are the tips and goals:

1. Impeller
2. Descale
3. Exhaust Manifold open up cooling holes between Thermostat
4. Thermostat

Any other suggestions? And if anyone wants to stop by I will be at Lanoka Harbor right inside the gate. Free beer!
 
Feb 17, 2004
268
Hunter 30_74-83 Lower Salford, PA / Tolchester,MD marina
Start with the water pump. Take a hard look at the back cover. Consider polishing and reversing the cover with a new paper gasket. Mine was losing prime and although no water came out, The engine overheated. Try this first with new impeller before going nuts. Hint- I removed the screws with vise grips because a screw diver stripped the heads. Install new screws if you are buying the parts. Buy a new back cover also.
 
Apr 16, 2014
94
Hunter 27 Brick, NJ
I'd stop by today if I wasn't traveling. Glad to see your on Barnaget bay though, I sail down by Forked River and Lacey township all the time. I'm in Brick so it takes me an hour and half to get there, but the sailing is awesome. Things to check out today would be your thermostat and manifold. Check your impeller also, but I'm sure it's fine. If water comes out your exhaust when your engine starts then there is nothing wrong with it, plus its to easy to fix and Hunter 27's always like to be difficult. On your thermostat see if you can push it open. If you hold the middle of it and push down the button at the bottom of it, the top part should open. It should be very easy to do this, if its not or its impossible, replace the thermostat. If the thermostat is fine, or the problem persists, take a part your manifold.

Fixing the manifold clogs is pretty easy; all I did was run a long drill bit through the holes to get all the crap out of them. The engine ran perfectly after that. Make sure the drill bit is the same diameter as the holes, or close to the diameter so you don't make them bigger and they extend beyond the gasket seal. To find the holes you need to unbolt the manifold completely from the engine, 4 bolts at the back of it will do this. Upon its removal look at the side of the manifold that faced the engine. It should be flat and have two holes at opposite corners; they will be easily visible from the engine side, and nearly impossible to see from the thermostat side (because they are in the corners out of view). Just run a drill through them to clear them out. The holes are completely straight and do not turn inside the manifold; so do not be afraid if you encounter resistance on the drill, its just the clog. Once your drilling is complete run some water through the thermostat side of the manifold; it should not hold water and drain almost immediately. If the water drains and everything looks good then the clog is gone and your manifold is fixed. However, before you reconnect everything, run water through your raw water intake to see if any water comes out of those same holes on the engine. Water enters your engine, circulates through it and then comes out of those holes, through the manifold and out the thermostat and exhaust. If water does not come out of those holes on the engine, you have additional cogs inside the engine and will need to take it apart. Hopefully you not have a problem like this. To ensure water has the best chance of getting through the engine clamp your bypass hose closed. The bypass hose forks off the main intake hose before it goes into the engine and connects to the bottom of the thermostat housing. With that hose clamped shut, the water will only have the engine to travel through.

^I pasted this from the thread I started about this problem. Someone else has the exact same problem as you. Seems more common then it should be.
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
Ok, After 1st checking impeller and water pump. I found they were perfect and brand new. Then I took the thermostat out and found it to be dirty. Pulled off the housing around the thermostat and found the problem.

The silencer bypass from the exhaust was modified to fit a Westerbeke instead of a Yanmar. This was done with sub standard materials and caused a lot of corrosion. Now the silencer was welded shut causing no bypass of water. So basically as the engine heated up water was not flowing.

Now for $700 I have all of the CORRCT yanmar parts on order.

Hoepfully this will fix it.
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
Ok. The parts do not exist in the US anymore. I took everything apart and drilled the holes. I am sure in the engine is clogged but will save that for the winter. Hoping to run int he near future. Been a little pressed for time.
 

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
^I pasted this from the thread I started about this problem. Someone else has the exact same problem as you. Seems more common then it should be.
I'm the guy "stollo" referenced. My only remaining issue after drilling out everything is getting my thermostat cover welded. It must have cracked due to age, and of course there are no replacements available. Engine runs great, it's just the waer circulation issue just like everyone else. The only long-term solution for salt water dwellers (I'm now on Lake Michigan, thank goodness...) would be to either regularly dismantle the thermo/manifold assembly to clean it out or to install a seperate freshwater cooling system. If it were me I'd probably just go the regular maintenance route. With all the rust and corrosion and lack of replacement parts a regular clean-out is probably the best route to take.
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
Did you do the engine side? I am planning on doing the boric acid flush my friends with big diesels have done. It is a several hour process but is supposed to get rid of everything.

Thank you for all of the help.
 

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
I'd just disassemble and check those passages. If after that water comes out ok, you should be good. There are a few descaling products on the market you can use that are not as labor intensive, costly, or dangerous as boric acid. A neighbor at the dock got his engine up to temperature and then flushed vinegar through the engine and let the vinegar sit overnight. The next morning a rainbow assortment of stuff came out the exhaust. There is also a product that's blue in color i've seen, but I don't remember the name. These things can be either sucked out of a bucket with your raw water hose inside or poured through a funnel attached to the end of your hose with the engine running.
 
Jan 4, 2007
406
Hunter 30 Centerport
Before anything else check that the thru hull is clear of barnacles or junk an that all hoses are sound. Weak hoses collapse under suction and can separate from the inside and look ok but be clogged. Also check that water runs easily through the exhaust elbow. If these are all ok then go to your list. Easiest and cheapest things first
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
That is on my list for Saturday. Most of the hoses were shot. But at this point I have stripped most of the system. Got rid of a amazing amount of carbon build up. Still have to polish the fuel... but that is next. For now overheating. With some luck a new 2 cyl yanmar for 2015 season.
 
Apr 16, 2014
94
Hunter 27 Brick, NJ
Did you attempt to open the holes in your exhaust manifold leading to your thermostat? The problem is likely located there and not in your engine. If you have drilled the holes and the engine is still over heating, run a descaling acid through the block at decent pressure. Make sure to clamp your bypass hose closed. I'll be in your neck of the woods on Saturday and if you want, I can stop by and render advice in person. I've taken apart my entire engine at least twice.

As for genuine Yanmar parts, if you need them, I have always found luck with contacting certified Yanmar parts suppliers. Silver Cloud Harbor Marina in Forked River, NJ is one of them and they have been extremely helpful with finding me some very rare parts. Parts they have found form me so far: All gaskets related to the engine, exhaust manifold (didn't buy it because I figured out how to fix my own), exhaust elbow, oil filter, impeller housing cover, thermostat housing, air intake, cylinder head, and an oil pressure sensor. I don't know how they do it but they have some supplier lined up that has a warehouse full of old Yanmar parts. Your dealer might not have the same thing, but they might know a guy, who knows a guy that does.
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
Ok. Update. After taking the exhaust manifold apart. Cleaning and grinding 35 years of carbon off, drilling our the holes and then reassembling everything with copper gasket maker. I found that both the hoses (intake and bypass to exhaust were bad). The previous owner used a fuel tank vent hose for the intake!!!! $18 later new hoses installed.

Ran the boat yesterday for 20 minutes out to Barnegat Bay and nothing! No overheat, nothing! Sailed and enjoyed my cleaned and rebuilt winches. Beautiful day. 2 Months of work and busy weekends paid off!

Boat for sale now $3500 ok JK unless you have money.
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
Ok. So here is the catch-22 on this engine. It was the simple hose (here is a call to owners please use the proper parts) and it was Stollo recommendations. The issue was a build up of 35 years of carbon and bad maintenance. Overall taking the engine apart is a good thing as it taught me the boat.

Now I may be purchasing another 27 out in the Hamptons. This boat may be parted out...
 

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
Now I may be purchasing another 27 out in the Hamptons. This boat may be parted out...
Dibs on the two aft Lewmar winches..... I'll also take your thermostat housing/cover...

PS Why are you parting out the boat? Just curious...
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
The goal is to put this boat out in East Hampton next summer. I found another 27 out there that need some work and the price is right. So instead of spending 2k to get this boat trucked I will start again. This is the 4th boat I have rebuilt used then looked to sell. I am more about the work and a couple of good naps.
 

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
I had almost thought abot getting a trailer for my 27. If anything, at least the boat could be brought to my house so that I could work on it during the off-season without hauling all kinds of gear to the boatyard and back. Of course a new trailer is about 7k and I am not sure if I trust a used one...I'd have to polish up on my welding skills first. Maybe I should just weld up a trailer myself......
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
The quotes I got to move the boat were outrageous. It would probably take about 3 days to get there via NYC to LI Sound. Would be a fun trip but not unless I was 100% sure of the motor.
 

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
Getting a little bit late in the season for that...or are you talking about the spring? NY to the Sound seems like a very cool voyage. Correct me if I'm wrong on the geography, but you'd go..what...past the Statue of Liberty up the East side of Manhattan? and then out into the sound? Is the Sound considered to be semi-protected waters or is it pretty wide open to the weather and seas?

I'm looking to get my boat up to the Door Peninsula in the next couple of years and then maybe do some Lake Huron and Superior island hopping. But my boat (any boat) has to be ready for choppy/pounding-type seas and sudden storms. Cruising the Great Lakes for any considerable distance requires a boat to be ready as if blue water cruising. Tight as a drum and everything in good working order.
 
Jul 21, 2014
61
Hunter 27 Cherubini Lanoka Harbor
Look for the spring. Correct up the coast stopping in Jersey City (my home) then timing the tide through the East River and Hells Fork (gate I forget) into the sound. The current through there can run 6+ knots so need to time. The reason for the sounds is mileage as out to Montauk is a lot of open water.