this is an external regulated alt from hatchie not a converted one ....they came in the Z cars
You will want to do a proper burn in & set up to determine it capabilities on your own vessel. If you have small batteries this likely won't be an issue but as banks grow and/or you go GEL or AGM then the alt can very easily get over worked. The "Z" cars, or any car, almost always has a battery at or near 99% full and the alt basically powers headlights, heater fan etc... This is easy work compared to bank that is deeply cycled.
This is from my article on LiFePO4 batteries but I set up all high performance alternators in the same manner.
Alternator Set Up & Load Testing:
It is not just good enough to program the regulator and walk away. Every alternator will respond differently to the field wire from the regulator. Proper set up will lead to a long alternator life and an alternator that can survive the abuse an LFP (or large lead acid) bank throws at it.
How do I do this? It is not difficult.
You will need the following:
#1 An on-board inverter capable of exceeding the alternators current capability, usually 2000W or more, or a portable inverter capable of at least 2000W or more. Even the cheap Harbor Freight inverters can work OK for this set up.
#2 A good restive AC load such as a heat gun, hair dryer or portable heater. If the alternator and inverter are large enough you may need two of these devices.
#3 A remote temperature sensor attached to the alternator case that can be read with the engine room 100% closed up and sealed tight. Most DVM's from the likes of Extech, Fluke, UEI etc. offer a remote temp probe.
Hot load testing and set up:
Step #1 - Connect temp sensor to alt and close engine room
Step #2 - Run the boat under load, with the inverter loaded down by the heater or AC source, and at
cruise RPM for
at least 30 minutes, but preferably more. Do this while monitoring alternator temp. If temp spikes above 220F put the heater on low or turn off AC load. When it cools turn it back on.
Step #3 - Return to dock or mooring and leave the motor running at fast idle with AC load live.
Step #4 - Keep inverter/AC load running. This load at the battery terminals should still be in excess of alternators physical capability. There should be a net loss from the batteries not positive current flowing into them.
Step #5 - Continue to monitor alternator temp, does temp exceed 225F at fast idle?
Step #6 - If so, adjust Balmar Belt Manager down to level #1, monitor temp.
Step #7 - Continue load testing and monitoring temp, did the alt still go over 225F?
Step #8 - If so move to Belt Manager Level #2
Continue this process until the alternator stays below 220-225F loaded to max output in YOUR hot engine room.
TIP: I start at Belt Manager Level #4 and work my way up. Most alts require level #3 or #4.
TIP: Some engine rooms may require a bilge blower sucking air from the top of the engine compartment. Preferably aimed at the alternator. This helps remove the warmest air and pulls it away from the alternator. Properly installed engine room temps can be lowered by 30 degrees or more.
NOTE: Balmar's
Belt Manger used to be called
Amp Manger in previous regulators. It is the feature you use to
current limit your alternator and prevent it from cooking itself. Older regulators used a different step/limit method with more "steps"...
).
