Ice Box Insulation
- Thread starter RoyS
- Start date
I have the same issue with the 36 - it's also MASSIVE.
I think I'm going to cut it out, build a new insulated box that's a 1/3 of the size, and use the space freed up for storage
I think I'm going to cut it out, build a new insulated box that's a 1/3 of the size, and use the space freed up for storage
I can't answer your question specifically as it applies to a Hunter but I suspect the ice box outside insulation may be the same as on a Catalina 30. My ice box was great at melting ice and I gave up on it and used it for storage BUT one day I was poking around near the ice box and was amazed at the thickness of the insulation around 3 side and the bottom. The problem was the 4th side next to the hull, which had zero insulation, and also the lid which had zero insulation. I purchased a small sheet of insulated board and placed it inside the ice box on the 4th side and on the lid.
That simple and inexpensive mod improved the the efficiency of the ice box by 100%. Additionally, wrapping the ice in brown paper super market bags helped also. So, to answer your question, I think it's an easy, inexpensive and quick mod and worth the small effort. Eventually, I installed a small fridge and the ice box was converted back to storage.
That simple and inexpensive mod improved the the efficiency of the ice box by 100%. Additionally, wrapping the ice in brown paper super market bags helped also. So, to answer your question, I think it's an easy, inexpensive and quick mod and worth the small effort. Eventually, I installed a small fridge and the ice box was converted back to storage.
Worked Through Several Options...
The ice box on my H33C worked poorly. While I have seen many modifications where the cabinet was dismantled and the box insulated, I really had no desire to put in that kind of effort for an ice box.
I use the box for storage and have a small cooler I set on the shelf for quick access to ice.
I removed the original sink and added a bar sink from Home Depot. This mod gave me several additional inches of space in the cabinet below the sink. I removed the lower doors and made the opening as large as I could and faced it with some nice oak.
Once that was done, I purchased a small fridge/freezer from Defender. It had a low draw and should have fit in th space. Alas, with the handles on it was about 1/2" to large (wide) for the opening. Great idea....kinda.
I did some research and identified the Yeti cooler as a good option. The size was perfect. It offered portability, and the recommendations for ice retention were excellent. No power draw appealed to me as I try to reduce my battery demands as much as I can. $ 350.00 at Cabella's.
The cooler works well. Ice retention is about three-four days when opened sparingly. I freeze ice bottles for the Yeti as they are compact and I can drink the water once it thaws.
I plan on building a sliding drawer this winter that will allow me to simply slide the Yeti out when needed to grab food or refill my smaller "on demand" cooler.
I will retain it in it's space with a "strap and loop" system I plan on fashioning this winter. Total mod (sink, oak, drawer slides, cooler....about $ 450.00).
No demand on my battery bank....priceless.
I figure I will be in port to purchase ice within a four day period....my wife gets homesick for a toilet that does not move.
The ice box on my H33C worked poorly. While I have seen many modifications where the cabinet was dismantled and the box insulated, I really had no desire to put in that kind of effort for an ice box.
I use the box for storage and have a small cooler I set on the shelf for quick access to ice.
I removed the original sink and added a bar sink from Home Depot. This mod gave me several additional inches of space in the cabinet below the sink. I removed the lower doors and made the opening as large as I could and faced it with some nice oak.
Once that was done, I purchased a small fridge/freezer from Defender. It had a low draw and should have fit in th space. Alas, with the handles on it was about 1/2" to large (wide) for the opening. Great idea....kinda.
I did some research and identified the Yeti cooler as a good option. The size was perfect. It offered portability, and the recommendations for ice retention were excellent. No power draw appealed to me as I try to reduce my battery demands as much as I can. $ 350.00 at Cabella's.
The cooler works well. Ice retention is about three-four days when opened sparingly. I freeze ice bottles for the Yeti as they are compact and I can drink the water once it thaws.
I plan on building a sliding drawer this winter that will allow me to simply slide the Yeti out when needed to grab food or refill my smaller "on demand" cooler.
I will retain it in it's space with a "strap and loop" system I plan on fashioning this winter. Total mod (sink, oak, drawer slides, cooler....about $ 450.00).
No demand on my battery bank....priceless.
I figure I will be in port to purchase ice within a four day period....my wife gets homesick for a toilet that does not move.
MY fridge runs almost continuously during the Florida summer when we cruise on the boat. I am presently cutting 3/4" R-40 foam panels from Home depot to cut the size in half. My box has an upper and lower area separated by a removable wire shelf. It's the lower half I'm portioning off with foam board. Hopefully this cheap approach, $12.00, will cut down on the time it runs.
Insulation is highly inadequate. Any efforts directed towards improving the insulation will be highly compensated. The first thing they tell you about converting the cooler to refrigeration is that you would need to upgrade the insulation. On the other hand these old coolers make for very good dry storage and like dunlookin did use a portable, already well insulated cooler or refrigerator.
Insulation
I have 12 volt front door ref that came with my 2007 H-36 and I am guessing it is well insulated like home ref because it doesn't seem to draw much power and some day will check what the draw really is and also very quiet too.
I think if you can add more insulation on sides and top lid will improve ref
and less power being used.
I never shut off my ref but do have solar to help with that and I also have a extra portable ref/freezer that use very little power and with solar I run both
24/7 when cruising and at the dock 24/7,we really like things cold and don't like
needing to use ice.
Nick
I have 12 volt front door ref that came with my 2007 H-36 and I am guessing it is well insulated like home ref because it doesn't seem to draw much power and some day will check what the draw really is and also very quiet too.
I think if you can add more insulation on sides and top lid will improve ref
and less power being used.
I never shut off my ref but do have solar to help with that and I also have a extra portable ref/freezer that use very little power and with solar I run both
24/7 when cruising and at the dock 24/7,we really like things cold and don't like
needing to use ice.
Nick
I bought a cheap styrofoam cooler from the local grocery store, cut the sides out and glued them to the inside of the existing cooler. Now my ice stays ICE all day long. With a foam lid I can keep the same ice for about two to three days, as long as I don't add additional warm beverages or food. I have a Hunter 27' so there is really no room for a fridge.
This thread has got me rethinking about the ice box on my H30. I was going to use some 3/4" rigid insulation and line it. Since it's a fairly big ice box I think I would rather use it for storage of non perishable goods since storage is limited. I'm thinking about a Yedi or a portable 12v unit now. I would also have a smaller igloo for beverages that will be opened a lot. My aft quarter berth will mostly be used for storage anyway. Would fit nicely in there.
Having removed the rear quarter berth rear panel to inspect the transom, I am rethinking my "not enough space for a fridge" comment from before. A 12v-style cooler would be just the thing! Now if I could just rig up an access hatch to it from the cockpit it would be perfect.
The ice box insulation on my 30 is terrible too. It will melt a 20-lb bag of ice in a day. Block ice fares a bit better. So I too have been considering adding insulation to the box and, in the future, adding refrigeration. Adding insulation to the inside sounds like a pretty simple fix. I also like the idea of the 12v/110v portable coolers - not the thermoelectric kind that just bring the temp down about 40F below ambient, but the ones that have real compressors in them that can actually freeze things. The Norcold NRF-45 caught my eye because it can cool and freeze at the same time, whereas most other coolers will either freeze or cool, but not do both at the same time. At about $600, this is cheaper than converting the ice box to refrigeration.
H30Gary, are you sure the Norcold has 2 separate thermostats? What I have read on most of these units it just has a separate insulated area for stuff you don't want to freeze. I wouldn't need ice anyway, just want my food and beverages nice and cold. I am leaning towards one of these myself. Amazon has the Norcold 60 for $660.
The Whynter unit looks "cool" too! Not sure what to do!. Just bought a 2' x2' sheet of rigid 1-1/2" foam insulation at home depot for $4. Will see where that gets me.