Portable (standing) AC Units - Which brand?

[down_shift]

I've searched the threads but did not see much about the preferred brand for the free standing portable AC units. My preference is no larger than 10,000 BTU for my Catalina 36 in Deale, MD. Just to take the bite off those really hot days in the slip.

I've read that the newer units do NOT require a drain with the auto evaporation systems. That a drain is only required if on the dehumidifying setting.

So what are the brands to look at and the brands to stay clear of? The 8000 and 10,000 BTU units by LG are available at the local Home Depot. Hope there is good feedback on these.

Thanks for your help.

 

[twdevore]

I have a Sharp 10000 BTU that I like very much. However, it does need draining. It is supposed to evaporate after dripping on the condenser but does not seem to. The exhaust duct fits perfectly in one of my ports. I do suggest getting some insulation to put around the exhaust hose. Alot of heat evaporates from that. Check Amazon for reviews.

 

[down_shift]

Thanks, I'll check out the Sharp and insulating the exhaust hose. Does the 10,000 provide surplus cooling? I am on the fence with 8,000 or 10,000 BTU. Saving few inches of depth (~ 3) and lbs (~8) of the smaller 8,000 has its advantages.

 

[kito]

I have a Sharp 10000 BTU that I like very much. However, it does need draining. It is supposed to evaporate after dripping on the condenser but does not seem to. The exhaust duct fits perfectly in one of my ports. I do suggest getting some insulation to put around the exhaust hose. Alot of heat evaporates from that. Check Amazon for reviews.

Does your 10K btu unit cool off the whole boat or just closed off sections? It's hard to believe it could cool down an entire 38 footer cabin. I have a 10K for my H30 and does cool down the entire cabin to a tolerable temperature. But have to close off the V-berth area to get it down to a comfortable temp. To the OP, you are waffling between an 8k or a 10k?.......you would be way better off with a 12k or even 15k unit on a 36 footer. These are not as efficient as their window unit counterparts. These use inside air which means it's always pulling in humid warm air through the cracks.....mixing with your cool air.

 

[twdevore]

I do close off the berths until the cabin is cool. I have a fan to circulate the air and the unit does draw air in from outside. They aren't ideal. The Webasco isn't installed yet. I would go with the largest unit you can get. I got mine on Craigslist. It was barely used and in perfect condition. It is only temporary but after looking at the portable cruisair units I thought this was the best option given the cost and the higher BTU.

 

[kito]

Btw, there is plenty of info here on these units because I asked this very question a while back FWIW, I bought a Newair 10K unit only because of it's design. I installed mine in my hanging locker and cut out about a foot square opening in my bulkhead. I needed one with a flat front with the cold air vent blowing from the front. Most I seen were not flat and blew out the top. I rigged mine so it draws most of the air from outside. My unit is in a semi enclosed locker with both an exhaust and inlet hose going to a port. I basically made a single hose unit into a 2 hose. My boat has no curtains or shades yet so the inside on a 90 degree day gets mightly warm. My unit will read 96 degrees inside and within a half hour will knock it down to 82 with low humidity. Also, the condensate evaporator may work in your house where it may be cooler and drier to start with but can't keep up with evaporating the high humidity in a boat.

 

[Rick D]

Agree re: insulation

I have a Sharp 10000 BTU that I like very much. However, it does need draining. It is supposed to evaporate after dripping on the condenser but does not seem to. The exhaust duct fits perfectly in one of my ports. I do suggest getting some insulation to put around the exhaust hose. Alot of heat evaporates from that. Check Amazon for reviews.

I have a 7000 BTU unit for the sole reason that it fits under the salon table and is easier to transport. I made a plexiglass hatch insert for the exhaust that works very well. The exhaust hose does get pretty warm and insulating it would be a really good idea. 7000 BTU is marginal but does help a lot. Drops the interior maybe 10 degrees and helps dry it out during monsoonal periods. I can't remember the manufacturer, maybe Sharp. got via WalMart's on-line store.

 

[Bad Obsession]

I am watching this threat with interest. I imagine that a smaller unit will cool the tiny cabin of my 23 foot Compac. I have thought about putting one of these in my last boat (Catalina 30). It is a better option than the cruise and carry because they don't even make these anymore. I did the hatch thing for a while with my Catalina 30 and it worked great....it was just a nuisance to get in and out of the cabin.

If anyone ever invents a reasonably cost and efficient system for boats they will make a fortune because there is nothing that really fits this bill. Either you get the cheaper solution that isn't as efficient or you spend a lot of money and add another complex system into the boat. A middle ground would be nice.

 

[twdevore]

I had never heard of this one. Saw it on Craigslist. It's used and they want $1,000 which is out of my budget. I like that it's built into a suitcase.

 

[down_shift]

Always looking for a project to peal away from work during lunch, I swung by the local Home Depot and purchased the LG 10,000 BTU unit (#LP1014WNR) for $319 and some insulated 6" flex duct and ridged 6" coupling to tie the exhaust to a Lexan plug for the portal. The 1/2" x 17" x 35-3/4" plywood is to make a removable base for a single cushion in the dinette area (the table w/ both cushions is too big to be usable for any purpose IMO).
http://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-LP1014WNR-portable-air-conditioner
Two differences that helped swayed me to the 10,000 BTU unit over LG's smaller 8,000 BTU unit was the higher elevation of the exhaust and built-in carrying handles. The smaller unit had no handles or really easy way to haul it around and the exhaust was so low, it would require additional clearance to the settee (where the larger unit the exhaust would clear the settee). Also thinking the overall noise of the larger unit will be lower where the smaller unit would be running for longer periods (or perhaps continuously).
Weather permitting, I'll report back after using this weekend.
For that removable base.... where is the best place to order teak? I would like to dress the edge so it looks factory and provides a lip to hold the cousin in place.

Best,
-Russell

 

[kito]

The main reasons I went with my portable setup:

1. Cost...$300 versus $1500-2000 for a central unit.
2. I can run my portable unit off my 2000 watt portable generator when anchored out overnight.
3. I don't have to setup, store and climb over a window unit in the companionway since I have mine semi-permantley installed.
4. Little or no maintenance. Pull the unit out in the Winter.
5. If it breaks after 5 or 6 years.....who cares.

 

[TFrere]

I have a 13,000 btu Whytner which does an adequate job of cooling my Morgan 382. It keeps up at night but during the heat of a Louisiana summer day it gets the temperature in the high 70s. I purchased it because it fits nicely in the quarter berth. I also insulated the exhaust hose which seems to help a bit. It does require a drain hose which I run to the bilge.

http://www.whynter.com/productdetail/air_comfort/portable_air_conditioners/301

 

[twdevore]

One last thought, if I were to buy a new one, I would have gone with one of the dual hose units which would bring air in from the outside through one hose and exhaust through the other. That would eliminate the air being sucked in through any openings in the boat. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-Dual-...1&keywords=dual+hose+portable+air+conditioner

 

[down_shift]

One last thought, if I were to buy a new one, I would have gone with one of the dual hose units which would bring air in from the outside through one hose and exhaust through the other. That would eliminate the air being sucked in through any openings in the boat. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-Dual-...1&keywords=dual+hose+portable+air+conditioner

Great point with the two ducts. Whynter has a slightly smaller 13,000 unit, but it includes the self evaporating system that could be a desirable feature:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHQKISE
Something tells me I returning the LG for this model, but first need to think about space for the two ducts out the portal(s).

 

[kito]

My next unit will be a dual hose unit too. Dual hose may be not as important in a home environment but in a small, hot and humid space like a boat I think it's just the ticket. Take the lg back before you even open the box.

 

[down_shift]

For the built-in units, if cooling is via an air/water heat exchanger and a pair of thru hulls, are they 100% recycled air cooling systems? Thought code mandated a curtain split of fresh air (like a 40 fresh/60 recycled spit.

The reason behind this question if where the does the fresh air come from on the two duct systems? To me, perhaps some fresh air leakage on the single duct systems is not a bad thing. I'll just make sure the portals near the holding tank vent are extra sealed. LOL

 

[Benny17441]

Go with the 10K or larger. These units are not very efficient for two main reasons 1) the exhaust 4 1/2" hose acts as a heat radiator and 2) the volume of hot air exhausted from the boat is significant and gets replaced by warm humid air from the outside. For a 36' boat 10K may not be enough. Check out that 14K, 2 hose unit posted by down-shift as it may do the job. A consideration in size might be if you intend to run it at anchor with a portable generator; then you may want it no larger than 10K. It may not be adequate during the day, but you will sleep well at night.

 

[Bill Roosa]

You are in Deal MD and "MUST HAVE" and AC. It is not that hot here dude! My DIY sun screens keep the cabin about 15 degrees below ambient and cost a whopping $30.
Are you considering a heater for the boat when the temps drop below 72?
I personality don't want to hear you genset running all night long.

 

[kito]

You are in Deal MD and "MUST HAVE" and AC. It is not that hot here dude! My DIY sun screens keep the cabin about 15 degrees below ambient and cost a whopping $30.
Are you considering a heater for the boat when the temps drop below 72?
I personality don't want to hear you genset running all night long.

So are you saying that you don't have ac in your 40 foot Hunter?

 

[down_shift]

You are in Deal MD and "MUST HAVE" and AC. It is not that hot here dude! My DIY sun screens keep the cabin about 15 degrees below ambient and cost a whopping $30. Are you considering a heater for the boat when the temps drop below 72? I personality don't want to hear you genset running all night long.

No must have for me, but must have if I want my wife to join me during another hot weekend. Thinking many here can understand that.